Photo: Leslie and Jim D'Andrea with The One
International Champagne Day was on October 28. Jim and Leslie D’Andrea, owners of Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery at Okanagan Falls, took that occasion to release three sparking wines.
In upcoming blogs, I also plan to comment on other sparkling wines from British Columbia. In recent years, many producers have added bubble to their portfolio.
Their timing could not be better. There was a recent bullish report in The Guardian newspaper on the LVMH French luxury goods firm and the sales of its Champagnes. “The company behind Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Krug and Dom Pérignon has said it is ‘running out of stock on our best champagnes’ as the wealthy spend big on luxury goods in a new “roaring 20s” age of decadence,” the newspaper wrote.
“The chief executive of Moët Hennessy, Philippe Schaus, said 2022 would be ‘a fabulous year’ for its champagne – which starts at about £40 a bottle and can run into the thousands – as evidenced by stocks running low in the company’s network of cellars that stretch for 17 miles under the town of Epernay in France’s Champagne region.
“Earlier this year the Guardian reported soaring sales of champagne in City of London wine bars as bankers celebrated the biggest bonus season since before the 2008 global financial crisis.”
I do not have figures immediately on hand but I suspect that most British Columbia wineries are doing quite well with sparkling wines, given how many have entered the market.
“We don’t make ‘Champagne’ per se,” Noble Ridge says. However, the winery makes excellent sparkling wines with the same grapes and methods as the Champagne houses. One of the differences is that the British Columbia examples are significantly less expensive. That is not a comment on relative quality but more a reflection on the prestige image Champagne has earned.
The Champagne producers also have defended that image vigorously, as they have every right to do. They litigated for decades against Canadian wineries who once labelled their sparkling wines as Champagne. It is no longer legal for Canadian wineries to use Champagne or any other European appellation name on their labels.
Nor is it necessary. Our best sparkling wines – and there are a lot – can hold their own against grower Champagnes.
The D’Andreas planned to make sparkling wine as soon as they purchased property south of Okanagan Falls and planted Pinot Noir on a north-facing slope. “I just love Champagne,” Jim told me once.
The winery began making The One in the 2010 vintage. The wine has won numerous awards over the years, including a Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in 2015 and sparkling wine of the year at the 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships.
Here are notes on the three sparklers in the current Noble Ridge portfolio.
Noble Ridge The Fizzy One NV ($23.99 for 433 cases). This frizzante style wine enables Noble Ridge to compete with Prosecco from Italy. The wine is a blend 68% Kerner and 38% Pinot Gris, which give the wine good aromatics. The palate is fruity, with notes of pear and apple. The bubbles are lively and the finish is crisp, with the residual sugar nicely balanced with bright acidity. 90.
Noble Ridge The Pink One 2018 ($39.99 for 130 cases). This is a traditional method brut made with Pinot Noir. The wine, which was en tirage for 29 months, begins with a lovely pink hue. The aroma has notes of brioche mingled with strawberry. On the crisp, dry palate, there are flavours of strawberry and raspberry. 92
Noble Ridge The One 2017 ($39.99 for 275 cases). This is 77% Chardonnay and 23% Pinot Noir. The wine was en tirage for 47 months and that has given it classic aromas and flavours of brioche. On the crisp palate, there are notes of apple and citrus. The mousse is fine and persistent. 94.
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