Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Saturday, September 24, 2022
Township 7's Infinity red and friends
Photo: Township 7's Mary McDermott
Township 7 Vineyards & Winery has released its second $100 wine, a 2018 Bordeaux blend called Infinity, following on from the 2017 Infinity released last year.
These wines are part of no-compromises wines in what the winery calls its Infinite Series. An $80 sparkling wine, seven stars Sirius, was released earlier this year.
The Infinity Tier appears to be pulling up the quality of all Township 7 wines, which already are some of best in British Columbia. It is an impact that can be seen at any winery that produces icon wines.
“Everything is elevated,” winemaker Mary McDermott says. “We are doing things in a different way and paying more attention. Every little decision that we make, we are constantly improving our wine … and learning new things and trying new things.”
She and her winemaking team certainly go the extra mile when making Infinity. They start with the best grapes available from Township 7’s Blue Terrace Vineyard or from the winery’s top growers.
In a letter with the sample, Mary explains the approach:
“The Infinite Series focuses on the art of winemaking as we aspire to perfection. Our Infinity red blend is a micro lot, ultra-premium wine, available exclusively by limited allocation. It was crafted using winemaking techniques that create some of the most iconic wines in the world. Made with the best grapes from our estate Blue Terrace vineyard and Sunshine Acres nearby in Oliver, the varieties were all handpicked and meticulously sorted. We used a low intervention process including 24 hours of gravity pressing, which enhances the wine’s silky tannin texture. Portions of only three barrels were chosen to ensure that ensure that Infinity is our finest red wine selection.”
Here are notes on Infinity and other recent releases from Township 7.
Township 7 Provenance Series Rosé 2021 ($26.97 for 523 cases). The blend is 53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernets were co-fermented; and all the ferments were long, cool and in stainless steel. The wine presents with a delicate rose petal hue. The strawberry aromas lead to flavours of strawberry and raspberry. There is an appealing creamy texture with a lingering, dry finish. 91.
Township 7 Provenance Series Pinot Gris 2021 ($22.97 for 300 cases). A cool three-week long ferment in stainless steel enabled the winemaker to accentuate the variety’s fruit. The wine begins with aromas of citrus and stone fruits, leading to flavours of peach and pear with bright acidity giving the wine a refreshing and lingering finish. 91.
Township 7 Benchmark Series Riesling 2019 ($29.97 for 548 cases). This is a wine for the devoted Riesling lover. It begins with classic aromas of citrus mingled with petrol that carry through to the palate. The layers of fruit include lemon, lime and apricot wrapped around a mineral spice. The finish refuses to quit. 92.
Township 7 Provenance Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($33.97 for 958 cases). Giving the fruit 21 days of maceration during fermentation left the wine with a dark colour and aromas that jump from the glass. The wine was aged 18 months in French and American oak. It begins with aromas of cassis, dark cherry and cedar. On the palate, there are intense flavours of cassis, dark cherry, plum. Polished, ripe tannins give the wine a long finish. 92.
Township 7 Benchmark Series NBO 2019 ($43.97 for 458 cases). This is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, both from Township 7’s Blue Terrace Vineyard at Oliver. The wine was aged 24 months in French oak barrels. It begins with aromas of cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate mingled with a whiff of oak. The full-bodied wine delivers flavours of black currants and dark cherry mingled with a hint of leather and chocolate. 93.
Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve 7 2019 ($44.97 for 487 cases). This is a blend of 50% Merlot and 25% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The grapes from the Blue Terrace Vineyard, the nearby Sunshine Acres vineyard and the Raju Vineyard in Osoyoos. The varieties were aged separately in barrel for 12 months, blended and aged another 12 months in barrel. The oak was both French and American. The wine begins with appealing aromas of cassis and blueberry mingled with vanilla notes of the oak. Dark berry flavours are wrapped around firm but polished tannins. 93
Township 7 Infinity 2018 ($99.97 for 44 cases). The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc, with the fruit from two Oliver vineyards. The grapes were picked by hand and pressed gently by gravity for 24 hours. The wine was barrel-aged for 24 months and aged another 18 months in bottle before release. The result is an elegant and complex wine. It still has enough grip that it needs to be decanted; it has the structure to age gracefully for at least a decade. Now, it begins with aromas of spice, cassis, black cherry and tobacco. On the palate, there are flavours of dark fruits mingled with leather. It was tasted over three days to monitor its development. The wine got better with breathing, as a good icon wine should. 96.
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