Burrowing Owl integrates Wild Goose

Photo: Burrowing Owl's Jim Wyse

The package of autumn releases from Burrowing Owl Estate Winery included a bottle of Riesling, a signature wine from Wild Goose Vineyards. It was a reminder that these two respected family-owned wineries united last year under the ownership of Jim Wyse and his family.

Wild Goose was opened in 1990 by Adolf Kruger and, after his death, was operated by his sons, Roland and Hagen. For tax reasons, they sold majority control in 2019 to Portliving, a Vancouver developer. However, the developer could not fulfil its obligations to the Krugers. The winery was put into receivership and Burrowing Owl emerged as the successful bidder in 2021. “For us, it was pretty straight forward,” Jim Wyse says. “We were buying a good going concern. It was not in receivership because it was not doing well. It was in receivership because the prospective owners were not paying their debts.”

The two wineries are a good fit because the production and the portfolios are complimentary. “One of the things that works for us is that Wild Goose is so different from everything else we are doing,” Jim says. “The thing we had not appreciated about their business is that it is based on white wines,” he adds. “There are some reds but 90% of the wine is white. They are into the bottles in seven or eight months, and they are on the shelf. They will probably have it all sold before the season is over. That is different from our style where everything is in barrels for two or three years.” Since opening in 1998, Burrowing Owl’s primary focus has been making big red wines. The Wyse family sold Wild Goose’s Secrest Road vineyard north of Oliver after harvest last year because it did not need more of the Bordeaux reds planted there. With more than 220 acres of its own vineyards, Burrowing Owl is well supplied with reds. The Krugers maintain a relationship with Wild Goose. Roland Kruger is in charge of grower relations. Hagen Kruger, the former winemaker, stepped aside from the business but his son, Nik, continues to make the wines in co-operation with Kent MacDonald, Burrowing Owl’s winemaker.

Here are notes on some current releases from Burrowing Owl and Wild Goose.

Wild Goose Riesling 2020 ($23 for 2,300 cases). Arguably, this was the variety with which Wild Goose made its reputation. This wine has begun to develop a note of petrol on the nose, mingled with citrus aromas. On the palate, there are lively flavours of lemon, lime and apple. 90.

Burrowing Owl Viognier 2019 ($50). This wine was fermented in oak barrels and puncheons, except for 18% that was fermented in stainless steel. The wine was aged 8 ½ months in French (86%) and American (14%) barrels, of which 10% were new. This is a rich wine, beginning with honeyed aromas of apricot mingled with vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of nectarine, pineapple and ripe apricot – almost like drinking a fine marmalade. 92.

Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2020 ($32). Some 75% of this was fermented in barrel while the rest was fermented in stainless steel. Only a third was allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. The wine (or 89% of it) aged in barrel – mostly French oak - for nine months, with both lots being blended for the finished wine. This full-bodied Chardonnay begins with aromas of citrus and papaya mingled with vanilla and almond. The palate delivers a rich medley of fruit flavours, including peach, mango and apple. The finish is exceptionally long. 93.

Burrowing Owl Merlot 2020 ($32). In a blind tasting, one should be able to pick out a Burrowing Owl Merlot by its typically lush style. It is a style that has been consistent throughout the winery’s history. The grapes get a three-day cold soak and then had a long maceration during a 28-day ferment. The wine was aged 14 months in barrels (French, Hungarian, American and Caucasus), of which 21% were new. This wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, blueberries and plum. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry mingled with ripe blueberry. 92.

Burrowing Owl Syrah 2020 ($35). There is two per cent Viognier in this blend. This is a big, ripe Syrah that has a 25-day ferment and was aged 15 months in a combination of barrels (22% new). The wine begins with a brooding, earthy aroma that evolves to show fig, black olive and a hint of pepper. On the palate, dark fruits mingle with leather and chocolate, finishing with savoury notes. 93.

Burrowing Owl Athene 2019 ($50). This co-fermented Syrah (52%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) is a deeply satisfying wine. It was aged 18 months in barrels (79% French, 12% American, 9% Hungarian), of which 33% were new. It begins with aromas of dark cherry, cassis and blueberry with spice notes. On the palate, there are bold flavours of fig, plum, dark chocolate, leather and spice. 94.