Stag's Hollow is a rising Pinot Noir producer

Photo: Winemaker Keira LeFranc

Founded in 1995, Stag’s Hollow Winery, which produced 6,600 cases in 2021, is emerging as Pinot Noir specialist in Okanagan Falls, even as the winery also makes excellent wines from Spanish and Italian varietals. Perhaps winemaker Keira LeFranc’s competence with Pinot Noir has not been fully recognized. I reach that conclusion when I see that the winery is only asking $30 a bottle for its two flagship Pinot Noirs. Stag’s Hollow is leaving money on the table.

Three clones of Pinot Noir grow in the winery’s Stag’s Hollow Vineyard, the winery’s original vineyard, now with a total planted acreage of 7.7 acres. The Pinot Noir vines are about 30 years old. The vineyard also has Vidal, Merlot, Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat Ottonel. In 2011, Stag’s Hollow’s founders Larry Gerelus and Linda Pruegger planted 15 acres in a second Okanagan Falls vineyard, now called the Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard. The plantings include seven clones of Pinot Noir, along with such exotic varietals as Albariño and Dolcetto. They sold the winery in 2019 to Eric Lui but Stag’s Hollow has not changed directions. Both of its vineyards are primarily in the Okanagan Falls sub-appellation, which was declared in 2018. The major varietal in the sub-appellation is Pinot Noir. The leading producers in Okanagan Falls of that varietal include Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars and Meyer Family Vineyards. That is good company to be in.

Here are notes on current Stag’s Hollow releases.

Stag’s Hollow Albariño 2021 ($26 for 365 cases). This is a crisp and focussed white wine. It begins with aromas of citrus and pineapple, carrying through to flavours of peach, mango and lime. The texture is rich but the bright acidity gives the wine a crisp, refreshing finish. 92.

Stag’s Hollow Pinot Gris 2021 ($24 for 590 cases). The winery’s objective is to make a Pinot Gris in the mold of Alsace. To do so, the winery does two picks of this block at harvest: an early pick to capture bright acidity and fruity flavours; and a second a month later when the more mature fruit shows honeyed and raisined notes. This blend is the result. The wine has aromas and flavours of peach, melon and spice. 90.

Stag’s Hollow Dolcetto Rosato 2021 ($25 for 180 cases). The magenta hue of this rosé will get under the skin of the fans of anaemic-looking Provençal-style rosés. Tough. This is what you get when the winemaker stomps the grapes by foot and then indulges in a five-day cold soak. The flavours are equally dramatic: red fruits mingled with herbs and spice. The finish is dry. 90.

Stag’s Hollow Simply Noir 2020 ($23 for 440 cases). This superbly quaffable wine is a blend of 67.7% Pinot Noir, 22.6% Merlot, 5.5% Gamay and 4.2% Dolcetto. The wine is juicy with aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry. 88.

Stag’s Hollow Pinot Noir 2020 Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard ($30 for 175 cases). This wine is a blend of six Dijon clones (777, 115, 828, 114, 667 and Pommard), all fermented and aged separately for 12 months before the final wine was assembled. The wine begins with floral aromas mingled with spice and red fruit. The silky palate delivers flavours of cherry and strawberry, with a savoury “forest floor” note on the finish. 91.

Stag’s Hollow Pinot Noir 2020 Stag’s Hollow Vineyard ($30 for 195 cases). This wine is a co-ferment of clones 115 and 667 in an estate block of Pinot Noir almost 30 years old. It was aged 12 months in French oak barrels (16% new). The vine age has led to a darker, slightly brooding Pinot Noir, with aromas and flavours of cherry, raspberry, plum and spice. 91.