Lakeside Cellars has authentic Provençal rosé

Photo: Lakeside's Ricky Dhaliwal

Many wineries speak of making a Provençal rosé but the rosé just released by Lakeside Cellars in Osoyoos is close to authentic. It is made with Cinsault, a variety that Lakeside’s Ricky Dhaliwal planted after tasting rosé wines made with that variety in Provence. He now has about two and a half acres here.

Lakeside Cellars opened in 2019 on an historic property that Ricky’s parents, orchardists Harbans and Harkesh Dhaliwal, had purchased in 2015. The 14-acre property once was the homestead of Judge J.C. Haynes, the first customs agent and a major rancher in the South Okanagan. The elegant 10-room house he built for his family in 1882 had fallen into disrepair by the time the Dhaliwals began developing the winery. Timbers salvaged from the house have been used in the new wine shop and tasting room. There were Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc vines, planted in 1998 and 1999, already growing here. Ricky expanded the plantings to include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Malbec, and, of course, Cinsault and, more recently, Orange Muscat.

Ricky, who was born in 1990, developed his interest in viticulture just after high school, when his parents began converting orchards to vineyards. “Some years ago, I took a winery assistant course in Penticton,” he told me several years ago. “I had just turned 19. I was into grape growing but I wasn’t totally into winemaking yet, so I didn’t finish the course. I started the course in January but when March rolled around and the vineyard work picked up, I stopped going to class. But I came back and did the viticulture course.” Lakeside’s initial vintages, totaling around 4,000 cases a year, were made under the guidance of Jason Parkes, a consulting winemaker from West Kelowna. Because Ricky is ambitious to grow the winery, Lakeside hired a fulltime winemaker last year. She is Paula Cooper, an Okanagan native and previously the winemaker at C.C. Jentsch Cellars until that winery closed in August 2021 (after the death of the owner).

While he enjoys making wine, Ricky has decided to focus on viticulture. Ricky’s objective is to raise Lakeside’s production over the next several years to about 10,000 cases. He has access to grapes from four vineyards, including the estate vineyard, totaling 35 acres. What is called the Desert Valley Vineyard on the Golden Mile grows Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Recently, Ricky added Malbec and Carménère. In another nearby Golden Mile vineyard, he grows Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Syrah and Semillon. Ricky also leases a vineyard on Black Sage Road from which he plans to produce a reserve quality Syrah.

Here are notes on current releases.

Lakeside Cellars Lakeshore Vineyard Bubbles 2021 ($21.65). This is zesty carbonated sparkling wine made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes. There are aromas and flavours of lemon and lime. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.

Lakeside Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($24). This wine nods more to the New Zealand style, with aromas and flavours of lime and lemon mingled with herbs. The wine is crisp and fresh with a long finish. 91.

Lakeside Cellars Portage White 2021 ($21). This is a blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 31% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Gris. It begins with aromas of citrus and peach, leading to flavours of peach, apple and apricot. The texture is fleshy but the finish is dry. 91.

Lakeside Cellars Rosé 2021 ($22). This is made with Cinsault grapes. The hue is pale rose petals. There are aromas and flavours of strawberry and raspberry with an herbal note on the nose. 90.

Lakeside Cellars Portage Red 2018 ($23). This is 43% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Franc and 21% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine aged 24 months in neutral French oak. The wine has a hint of oak on the nose mingled with dark cherry and black currant. The dark berries are echoed on the palate along with a touch of chocolate. The tannins are long and ripe. 90.

Lakeside Cellars Cabernet Franc 2018 ($29). While this was also aged 24 months in neutral oak, the classic brambleberry aromas of Cabernet Franc jump from the glass. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry and blackberry. 92.