Township 7’s Interlude wines

Photo: Township 7's Mary McDermott

Okanagan and Similkameen wineries have begun to release their 2024 “replacement” red wines. There are the wines made with American (or other non-B.C.) grapes after the hard freeze in early 2024 almost wiped out vineyard production here.

Mary McDermott, the winemaker at Township 7 Vineyards & Winery, explained it well in a note accompanying the release of the winery’s so-called Interlude reds. “Following the devastating January 2024 freeze, which left many Okanagan vineyards with little or no fruit, we sourced premium grapes from trusted growers in the United States,” she writes. “Purchased in 2024, before the current trade environment, the fruit was brought to our Naramata winery, where our winemaking team crafted, aged and bottled four wines: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a Red Blend.” She adds: “Sourcing this fruit allowed us to keep our winery operating, our employees working, and our local suppliers and service partners supported during an exceptionally challenging vintage.”

Wineries needed the government to waive the mark-up usually imposed on imported wines to make it economically feasible for wineries to use imported grapes. Because the mark-up relief was not announced until late July 2024, wineries which, like Township 7, lined up “trusted growers” earlier in the season were taking a chance that favourable regulations would come eventually. When the mark-up relief was announced, it came late in the growing season and with a stupid restriction: the replacement wines had to be sold by March 31, 2025. That would have made it impossible for wineries to release properly aged red wines. Eventually, the regulators saw the light and extended the deadline for selling the replacement wines well into 2027.

I took the four Township 7 Interlude Reds for a tasting with a winemaking club of which I am a member. The response was uniformly positive, with one taster saying the quality exceeded his expectation for “replacement” wines. The replacement whites and rosé wines that I have already tasted have been good quality. I expect the same of the reds. The reason: there was a vast surplus of grapes in 2024 in Washington State and somewhat of a surplus in California. British Columbia wineries had lots of choice. Many wineries even sent their winemakers to have some supervision over the vineyards they dealt with.

“Both the 2024 freeze and the 2026 wildfires have required us to make difficult but necessary decisions,” Mary writes. She does not elaborate but is likely referring to discarding some fruit because of potential smoke taint. The wine business is not easy.

Here are notes on her 2024 reds, which clearly over-deliver.

Township 7 Interlude Red 2024 ($29.97 for 693 cases). This an unusual blend of 42% Pinot Noir, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 9% Syrah, with fruit from both Sonoma and Washington State. The varietals are fermented separately and aged 18 months in French and American oak. The wine has aromas of cherry mingled with oak. The palate delivers savoury flavours of fruits and deli meats, with long ripe tannins. The Pinot Noir in the blend is reflected in the wine’s amiable texture and finish. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Merlot 2024 ($33.97 for 491 cases). The fruit is from the Double D Vineyard at Orondo, Washington. The grapes were fermented in two large wooden foudres and then aged 18 months in French (80%) and American oak. None of the barrels were new. This is a muscular Merlot with big aromas of blackberry and black cherry echoed on the luscious palate. 92.

Township 7 Interlude Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 ($35.97 for 593 cases). The fruit is from the Double D Vineyard at Orondo, Washington. The grapes were fermented in both stainless steel and wood foudres. The wine was aged 18 months in French (75%) and American oak; none of the barrels were new. This is an elegant, full-bodied wine with aromas of cassis and dark cherry leading to flavours of dark fruits and a hint of chocolate. The long tannins give the wine good length. 93.

Township 7 Interlude Syrah 2024 ($44.97 for 643 cases). The fruit, 100% Syrah, was half from a Sonoma vineyard and half from the Double D in Washington. The lots were fermented separately in stainless steel (a small portion was fermented in foudres). The wine was aged 18 months in French (77%) and American oak, none of it new. This is a bold wine that struts from the glass. Deli meat aromas and flavours are mingled with blueberry, blackberry and a hint of pepper. It is rich and satisfying on the palate. 94.