Hillside's Mosaic and friends

Photo: Hillside winemaker Kathy Malone

Hillside Winery’s Mosaic is one of the oldest Bordeaux blend Icon wines in the Okanagan. The first vintage was created in 2003 by Eric von Krosigk, then the winemaker. Hillside had just come under new management and wanted a flagship wine that could make a statement. I included Mosaic in my 2017 book Icon: Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries. Here is an excerpt.

The first three vintages were primarily blended with grapes from the South Okanagan. Hillside only began planting its Hidden Valley Vineyard, now an important source for Merlot, in 2002 in the hills above the winery. Since 2006, however, Mosaic has been made entirely with Naramata Bench grapes. “Before I came here, I would not have thought that was wise,” says winemaker Kathy Malone. She came to Hillside in 2008 from Mission Hill, where she had worked primarily with South Okanagan fruit, not Naramata grapes. She is now one of the strongest advocates of the Naramata terroir. “I love the type of ripeness we get on the Naramata Bench,” she says. In the 2010 and 2011 vintages, Hillside lost one source of Naramata Bench Cabernet Franc. Rather than compromise on the winery’s commitment to terroir, Kathy made those two vintages with no Cabernet Franc in the blend. That varietal returned to the wine in 2012 when Hillside secured a new source. The 2006 vintage was the first Mosaic to win a gold medal (at the Northwest Wine Challenge). While fermenting Naramata fruit exclusively brought the first upgrade to Mosaic, subsequent advances also reflected winemaking changes. Early vintages spent only nine months aging in French and American oak barrels. By 2008, barrel-aging had been extended to 13 months. Now the wine spends at least 14 months in barrel, all in French oak, and more than a quarter of the barrels are new.

The current Mosaic is from the 2017 vintage, still a firmly structured wine that took several days to open up. This is a collectible wine for long-term cellaring. Today, all the wines in the Hillside portfolio are made exclusively with Naramata Bench grapes. Here are notes on some current releases. I was struck by the consistency of the quality.

Hillside Muscat Ottonel 2022 Heritage Collection ($26). This varietal was first planted here in 1984. The fruit was allowed overnight skin contact. The juice was then fermented and matured in stainless steel. The wine begins with delicate aromas of rose petals and spice. The flavours are remarkably intense – spice, slight note of ginger and exotic tropical fruits. The finish is off-dry but with lovely balance and good length. 92.

Hillside Pinot Gris 2022 Heritage Collection ($35 for 365 cases). The fruit was allowed three hours of skin contact, which accounts for the slight and appealing blush of the wine. Seventy-one per cent was barrel-fermented. The wine was aged sur lie for six months in Tokaj barrels (24% new). This is a complex wine with luscious fruit on the nose and palate: pear, apple and mango. 92.

Hillside Viognier 2022 Heritage Collection ($28). This fruit had 16 hours of skin contact in stainless steel. Fermentation was 76% in French oak (12% new). The wine was aged sur lies for five months. It begins with aromas of pineapple and quince; these are echoed on the palate along with stone fruit flavours. 92.

Hillside Gamay Noir 2020 Founder’s Block ($45 for 140 cases). The fruit for this wine is from a 1984 planting beside this Naramata Bench winery. Skin contact before and during fermentation lasted 23 days, accounting for the intensity of the wine, which was aged eight months in French oak (33% new). Spicy aromas of cherry and blackberry lead to flavours of raspberry, cherry and cedar. The finish lingers. 92.

Hillside Syrah Heritage Collection 2021 ($36). This is a classic Syrah, with aromas and flavours of plum and fig with a touch of black pepper. 92.

Hillside Mosaic 2017 Icon Collection ($70 for 417 cases). This is a blend of 33% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (42% new) before being bottled. This wine needs to be decanted, or opened to breath the day before consuming it in order to unlock the intense and brooding flavours of dark fruits. This full-bodied wine can be cellared another five to 10 years. 94.

River Stone adapts its wine styles

Photo: River Stone's adaptable Ted Kane

The current wine releases from River Stone Estate Winery testify to the resilience of Ted Kane, the co-owner, viticulturist and winemaker. He has had to rise to the challenges of the difficult vintages of 2021 and 2023; and he is coping with another difficult year.

The new releases include a red table wine from 2021. That was the year of extreme heat during the growing season. “This extreme heat shut the plants down and effectively delayed ripening,” he writes. The heat “affected our grape set and ultimately harvest volumes which were lower than historical average yields.” However, “the quality at harvest was exceptional.”

The volumes from the 2023 vintage were also well below average because of the freeze the vineyards experienced in December, 2022. “While our vines certainly proved eager to take part in the 2023 vintage,” Ted writes, “the secondary fruit was not suited to the premium red portfolio that I have spent over 20 years building.” Ever flexible, Ted adapted his 2023 wines to the styles the fruit made possible. “Our 2023 portfolio represents the lighter incarnations of their red counterparts: zesty sparklers, aromatic whites and mouthwatering rosés have taken the spotlight this year,” he says.

The current vintage is sure to be even more challenging. Ted laid out the issues earlier this year in a report to the River Stone wine club:

The reality is the wine industry has taken another significant hit with the exceptional, and untimely cold weather snap occurring between January 11th and 14th. You probably have heard me say, as I firmly believe, “Mother Nature Runs the Show”. And we must adjust our practices as best we can to compensate and continue to produce the highest possible quality wines. This extreme cold (as low as -30) in the valley followed the previous year’s cold snap, where vines had already been significantly damaged. Bud dissection in and around our area of the valley indicate significant primary and secondary bud damage: probably in the range of 60-100% bud loss depending on varietal. We really won’t know for certain until early to mid May as the vines will declare themselves and show the results. We are hoping for the best (as farmers always do) but planning for the worst. At this time we are pruning our vineyards in such a way to allow close to 100% more buds than usual while we wait for spring bud break. Since our arrival in the valley in 2001 (initiating the planning, preparing, and planting our vineyards) we have had over 20 years of consistent vine health and production. This gives me hope that the future of our industry will be bright. Two bad years back-to-back is difficult to take and with climate change, the reality is that changes must be made from the ground up for long-term industry sustainability. Depending on what happens in our vineyards this season (and the vineyards of BC as a whole) will guide us in our future wine production.

Here are notes on current releases.

River Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($23.90 for 230 cases; also 71 cases of 24x200 ml bottles). Fermented cool in stainless steel, this wine is in the refreshing, zesty style that recalls New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and lime with a crisp, yet juicy, finish. 92.

River Stone Splash 2023 ($22.90 for 268 cases; also 79 cases of 24x200 ml bottles). This white wine is a blend of 37% Pinot Gris, 37% Gewürztraminer and 37% Viognier. It has aromas of citrus and pears. On the palate, there are flavours of peach, pear and pineapple. The finish is refreshing. 90.

River Stone Pinot Gris 2023 ($23.90 for 138 cases). This stainless steel fermented wine is crisp, with aromas and flavours of pear and apple wrapped around a spine of minerality. 91.

River Stone Cabernet Franc Rosé 2023 ($24.90 for 308 cases). This is the winery’s first 100% Cabernet Franc rosé. The grapes were allowed a cold soak of between 24 and 48 hours before being pressed and fermented in stainless steel. The dark rose petal hue of the wine is immediately appealing in the glass. With aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon and bright acidity, the wine is lively and refreshing on the palate. 91.

River Stone Sparkling White Merlot 2023 ($27.90 for 248 cases). Calling this wine white is a bit of a stretch when it is salmon pink in colour. That quibble aside, the wine is delicious. The grapes were pressed; the juice was separated from the skins. The juice, after clarification, was fermented cool and then aged on the fine lees for several months. After fining and filtering, the wine was carbonated and bottled. In the glass, the bubbles are active. The wine has aromas of strawberry and cherry, leading layers of fruit flavours on the palate. 91.

River Stone Cabernet Franc 2021 Boulder City Vineyard ($36.90 for 245 cases). The Boulder City Vineyard is just a quarter kilometer from the winery’s estate vineyard. The grapes, after a three to five-day cold soak, were fermented in a stainless steel tank. The wine was then transferred to French oak barrels (33% new) and aged for about 14 months. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry and blackberry. On the palate, the fruit flavours are bright. The initial texture is lean but with decanting, rich, brambly flavours emerge. 91.