Blue Mountain sparkling wine in time for the holidays

Photo: Blue Mountain winemaker Matt Mavety

One report on the 2026 vintage in Champagne notes that this is the fourth difficult vintage in a row, with a below average yield. That almost applies to the Okanagan, where frost reduced or eliminated grape crops in the 2023 and 2024 vintages. Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars, for example, lost no vines in 2024 but, due to bud damage, produced almost no wine. Many vineyards bounced back in 2025. Some wineries may be dealing with smoke-affected grapes this year.

“However,” as one commentator on Champagne writes, “if history has taught the region anything, it’s that a bad growing year doesn’t automatically produce a bad bottle.” That would apply in the Okanagan as well. The Blue Mountain team under winemaker Matt Mavety is exceptionally skilled at confronting difficult vintages and, in great years, making great wines. What brings that to mind is the release of four superb sparkling wines from Blue Mountain that rival the quality of Champagne but are much more affordable. The vintage-dated and recently disgorged wines, to be released October 20, are from very good Okanagan vintages (2017 and 2022). The fourth wine is the non-vintage Gold Label Brut but is also from 2022 fruit. It is “the sparkling wine that started it all,” the winery says.

Before Blue Mountain winery was launched in 1991, Ian Mavety, then a grower, participated in a sparkling wine trial begun in the Okanagan by Schramsberg Cellars from California. When Schramsberg pulled out, Ian went ahead on his own. He found a French winemaker in California, Rafael Brisbois, who was a trained sparkling wine maker. He mentored Blue Mountain in making bubbly, beginning in 1991.. The result: Blue Mountain became arguably the best sparkling wine producer in the valley. Arguably only because Blue Mountain does not enter its wines in competitions.

Blue Mountain began releasing its R.D. (recently disgorged) sparkling wines about 10 years after building a stock of wine that had spent sufficient time aging on the lees. The wines may spend as long as eight years on the lees in bottles before being disgorged. As with Champagne, prolonged lees aging allows the wines to develop complex flavours, aromas recalling brioche, and creamy textures that are the hallmark of top bubblies. The R.D. wines necessarily are more expensive, reflecting the additional years these wines are aged. The reward for tying up capital for five years to eight years is remarkably sophisticated wine. Having said that, Blue Mountain’s prices are quite reasonable compared with competing sparkling wines. Here are notes on the wines.

Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut 2022 ($28). This is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. In second fermentation, the wine was aged on the lees for 24 to 36 months before being disgorged. The wine has notes of brioche and green apple in the aroma and on the palate. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.

Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2017 R.D. ($44). This is 100% Chardonnay aged on the lees for 7 ½ years. This is a lively, bright wine with a fine mousse and notes of toast and lemon. 93.

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut 2017 R.D. ($44). The winery notes that the “2017 vintage produced exceptional fruit quality and conion.” This is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, aged on the lees for 7 ½ years. The Pinot Noir has filled out this wine which is rich and satisfying. There is brioche and red apple in the aroma and on the palate, along with a persistent mousse. The finish is long. 95.

Blue Mountain Rosé 2022 R.D. ($35). This is 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, aged 36 months the lees. The colour is very fashionably pale but the wine is satisfyingly fruity in the glass, with a good mousse and aromas and flavours of wild strawberry and raspberry. 92.