River Stone's strategy for survival

Photo: River Stone's Ted Cane

Few small wineries were as hard hit by the January 2024 freeze as River Stone Estate Winery, just north of Oliver. “After months of observation and analysis,” co-proprietor and winemaker Ted Kane wrote recently, “we concluded that not only did the freeze impact our entire crop from 2024, but there was evidence of long-term damage affecting between 40% and 95% of vines, depending on varietal and vineyard site.”

Anyone but Ted might have walked away from the business. In the 2020 edition of The Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, I noted how determined he was to be a winery owner in the first place: “The winery is owned by Ted and Lorraine Kane. Born in Edmonton in 1962, Ted was so focussed on wine growing that he grew grapes in a greenhouse there just to learn how. He and Lorraine, now a family physician, moved to Oliver in 2002 to plant a three -hectare (seven-acre) vineyard on land that, for all of its excellent viticultural qualities, had been fallow for 30 years.”

Instead of shutting the business down, Ted writes that: “We took action to ensure River Stone remained resilient. We planned for short-term and long-term solutions to allow us to continue our work as wine sellers and producers in the South Okanagan.” The long-term solution has involved replanting five of the seven acres of the River Rock Vineyard (the original vineyard) and six of the nine acres at the nearby Boulder City Vineyard (more recently acquired by River Stone). Many of the original varietals have been replanted; a few have been replaced.

River Stone’s short-term solution, like that of many of its peers, was to source grapes for the 2024 vintage from Washington State. “We partnered with growers … choosing vineyards that share our terroir and commitment to quality,” Ted continues. “This collaboration has allowed us to create a 2024 vintage of wines we are incredibly proud of. … We’ve named this collection Good Neighbours, a tribute to the camaraderie and partnership within our industry.”

It is obvious that River Stone’s newly planted vines will not produce grapes this fall. Ted writes that “2025 may bring another vintage sourced from Washington [but] we look forward to returning to estate fruit as our vineyards recover.”

The debut Good Neighbours collection consists of four white wines. They are, in my judgment, absolutely top quality, as I have come to expect from River Stone. Here are my notes.

River Stone Splash Good Neighbours 2024 ($23.90 for 361 cases). This is a blend of equal parts of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are from two Washington AVAs: Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke. The fruit was fermented cool with selected yeasts. This delicious blend is fruit salad in a glass, with aromas and flavours of apples and citrus fruits. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Chenin Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 208 cases). The grapes are from Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. This is a luscious wine, with aromas and flavours of peaches, pears and citrus. The texture is full and the finish is long. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 266 cases; plus 80 cases in 200 ml bottles). The grapes are from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The fruit was fermented cool with select yeast strains. This is a zesty, refreshing wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit mingled with herbs. The finish is crisp. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Unoaked Chardonnay 2024 ($24.90 for 183 cases). The fruit is from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The grapes were fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is a bright wine with flavours of green apples and pears that dance vivaciously on the palate. 9o.

Peller spells out vineyard recovery strategy

Photo: Tinhorn Creek's Leandro Nossal

Like most wineries in the Okanagan and Similkameen, the five B.C. wineries owned by Andrew Peller Ltd. had to source grapes from elsewhere. The hard freeze in January 2024 reduced the production from the interior vineyards to between 1% and 3% of normal. The Peller wineries that traditionally make VQA wines in B.C. are Gray Monk Estate Winery, Red Rooster Winery, Sandhill Wines, Tinhorn Creek Winery and Black Hills Estate Winery. The group sourced grapes last year from Washington State, Oregon and Ontario to make wines selling under similar regulations as if all were made from B.C. grapes under the usual VQA rules.

The wine industry got a one-year waiver in 2024 to make those wines. It is obvious from a booklet recently published by Peller that B.C. wineries may need the same privilege for several years. Peller estimates that between 43% and 79% of the vineyards need to be replanted, or between 5,579 and 10,233 acres. This is a massive undertaking. Leandro Nosal, the Tinhorn Creek winemaker, points out that it may take a year or two even to get vines from plant nurseries (in France or in the United States). Those vines will only begin producing a reasonable crop in their third year and the wines from those grapes will not be released to market for another year or two.

“For vineyards that don’t require extensive replanting,” the Peller brochure continues, “we are concentrating on restoring key areas to full health by regenerating vines from the base. This is a slow recovery process that will take at least three years to complete.” The brochure continues: “We are replanting with more resilient grape varieties, adopting innovative farming techniques, and investing in climate-adaptive technology like upgraded wind machines and insulation methods. These measures aim to ensure the long-term health of our vineyards. Rejuvenation and replanting efforts will take several years. We anticipate yields to gradually increase, with full production potentially resuming by 2027. Due to aging requirements, these wines may not be available for another two-three years after that.”

The Liquor Distribution Branch appears to have anticipated a need for imported grapes for several years. In October, 2024, the LDB issued a memorandum to the industry setting out in detail the regulations. Included was this paragraph: “The temporary requirements permitting commercial wineries to produce and sell Replacement Wines as Products of their Licensed Establishment will terminate on March 31, 2028. As of April 1, 2028, commercial wineries must return to full compliance with the terms and conditions of their original Commercial Winery Agreement.”

It might be a delicate matter for the BC wine industry to negotiate the right to keep making wines for several more years under the same favourable terms as exist this year. There is always a risk of a trade action against BC by the American wine industry. The reason: The provincial government pulled all American wines and other alcoholic products from BC liquor stores in March. Now the BC wineries are trying to fill those empty shelves with wines made with American grapes. One would not expect that the California Wine Institute to be very happy with that when their wines are shut out of this market.

In the four quarters to the end of 2024, sales of American wines in British Columbia totalled $124.3 million. In the same period, sales of BC wines (both VQA and non-VQA wines) totalled $511 million in this province. In my view, it would be prudent for British Columbia to do what Alberta and Saskatchewan have just done: allow American wines back into this market once consumers have had an adequate chance to become familiar with the “replacement” wines. They should be able to compete with American wines.

I have tasted enough of those wines to recommend them without hesitation. Here are notes of several that the Peller group showed to a small group of wine writers recently.

Grey Monk Washington Pinot Gris 2024: The wine is crisp and fresh, with aromas and flavours of pear, peach and citrus. 90.

Sandhill Small Lots Washington Viognier 2024: The wine has the classic texture of Viognier, with aromas and flavours of stone fruit and pineapple. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2024: The fruit is from the Yakima Valley. The wine was aged partially on concrete and barrels, giving it a full texture. The herbal notes mingled with hints of lime recall a Sancerre white. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Washington Rosé 2024: This is a blend of 88% Syrah and 6% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine presents with an appealing rose-petal hue, with aromas and flavours of wild strawberry and watermelon. 91.

SpearHead defends its Dual Citizen wines

Photo: SpearHead's Dual Citizen lineup

One concern among Okanagan and Similkameen wineries is whether the consumer boycott of American products will extend to the 2024 wines made with Washington, Oregon and California grapes. Many wineries turned to growers in those states after the devastating January 2024 freeze wiped out about 97% of vineyard production in the B.C. interior. Skipping a year of production was not an option if wineries wanted to retain skilled staff and keep their brands in the supply chain. Importing grapes became economically viable after government agreed those wines could benefit from the same mark-up waivers that VQA wines get.

SpearHead Winery in East Kelowna was among the producers that turned to growers in the United States. Vineyards in East Kelowna were among the hardest hit by the 2024 freeze. So far, SpearHead has released five wines under its Dual Citizen designation, two of which are reviewed here. “The Dual Citizen wines were bottled in early 2025,” the winery wrote in a statement on releasing the wines. “Today, like everyone, we’re very aware that the actions of leadership in the U.S. have created a reasonable bias in this country in favour of Canadian-made products. While Dual Citizen wines were made entirely at SpearHead Winery, obviously the grapes were grown in the U.S. In order to let our consumers know which side of the fence we are on, we’ve attached a sticker to every bottle explaining that the wine was ‘Made Before the Madness.’ Hopefully, the need for stickers will be short lived.”

I would not count on that, given the penchant of the Trump administration for bullying the rest of the world, including the country that is the oldest friend of the United States. However, that is no reason for not buying the wines made in British Columbia from imported fruit. We need to support all our own producers in view of the madness south of the border. As well, the wines are proving to be quite good and usually deliver value for the money. SpearHead’s Dual Citizen wines are worth having on your table. Here are notes on two of them, as well as notes on two fine Pinot Noirs from a winery whose winemaker, Grant Stanley, is one of Canada’s leading specialists with this varietal.

SpearHead Dual Citizen White Pinot Noir 2024 ($29 for 798 cases). The grapes for this wine are from the De Vries Vineyard in Washington State. Gentle pressing yielded juice with minimal colour, which was fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine presents with a delicate pink hue and aromas of strawberry and watermelon. There is a bowl of fruit on the palate, including juicy flavours of watermelon and pink grapefruit, with a lingering finish. 91.

SpearHead Dual Citizen Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($29 for 550 cases). The fruit is from the Den Hoed Vineyard in Washington. The grapes were fermented at about 12C for three weeks in stainless steel. It begins with aromas of lime that lead to a delicious fruit salad of flavour, including lime and grapefruit. 90.

SpearHead Jagged Ridge Pinot Noir 2023 ($39 for 142 cases). The Jagged Ridge Vineyard near Naramata is a new grower contracted by SpearHead. The wine is a blend of 61% clone 943 and 39% clone 115. The clones were fermented separately with native yeast, with 21 days on the skins. The wine was aged 13 months in French oak barrels (25% new). The wine has aromas and flavours of spice and cherry, with lingering intensity of fruit flavours on the finish. 92.

SpearHead Cuvée Pinot Noir 2023 ($46 for 288 cases). This is a blend of four clones: 30% of 115, 25% of 114, 25% of 943 and 20% of 777. The grapes, some from Jagged Ridge and some from the estate vineyard, had a five to seven-day cold soak before fermentation, which took place on the skins over three weeks. The wine was aged in French oak barrels (40% new) for 13 months. This is a dark, masculine wine with aromas and flavours of plum, dark cherry and chocolate. 93.

Michael Bartier makes Pristine wines ... seriously

Photo: Michael Bartier in the cellar (Shari Saysomack photo)

Like most wineries in the South Okanagan, Bartier Bros. suffered from the devastating freezes of December 2022 and January 2024. The winery had a minimal harvest in the 2023 vintage and none in the 2024 vintage. Michael Bartier and his brother, Don, are well along at restoring their vineyards to production. Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc vines are being restored while Merlot and Sémillon vines have bee replanted. Sadly, Syrah has been removed and will be replaced with Chenin Blanc.

The winery has produced a 2024 vintage with Washington State grapes. Those wines have labelled “Pristine” and bottled under distinctive labels, alerting consumers that these products are from different terroirs than the usual Bartier wines. The choice of Pristine is also an apt description of the wines, made in a clean, crisp style. Michael worked with vineyards in three different American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in Washington. The fruit typically was harvested by hand, trucked across the border and processed in the Bartier Bros. winery. Thise enabled the winery to stay in production in 2024. “The winery remains fully committed to returning to British Columbia grown grapes as soon as the vineyards have recovered,” writes Lindsay White, the winery’s marketing manager.

Here are notes on eight Pristine wines from Bartier Bros. along with five British Columbia reds from the Okanagan’s superb 2022 vintage. That has been, arguably, the best vintage so far in the Okanagan, a year in which the weather and the viticulturists’ skill sets lined up perfectly. I have enjoyed the “replacement wines” from 2024 but I can hardly wait for the return of wines from our own terroir. Here are the notes.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Rosé 2024 ($17.99 for 2,800 cases). The grapes are from the Columbia Valley AVA. The blend is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Pinot Noir, 2% Chard0nnay and 1% Riesling. Limited skin contact has given this wine a golden-hued rose colour. There are aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon. 88.

Bartier Bros. Pristine White 2024 ($17.99 for 845 cases). This is a blend of 46% Riesling, 28% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Chardonnay. The grapes are from the Columbia Valley AVA. They were harvested at night and were crushed and pressed immediately before being transported to the Bartier winery and fermented in stainless steel. The wine begins with citrus and orchard fruit aromas leading to a tasty fruit salad of flavour. 90.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Vin Gris 2024 ($19.99 for 317 cases). This wine is made with Pinot Gris grapes from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA in Washington. The fruit was harvested at night, crushed and pressed and fermented in stainless steel. A little skin contact has picked up a light golden hue. The wine has aromas and flavours of peach and pear with a crisp, refreshing finish. 90.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($18.99 for 1,260 cases). The grapes are from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The fruit was harvested at night and fermented moderately cool in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of citrus and peach. It has a refreshing finish. 89.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Riesling 2024 ($18.99 for 280 cases). The grapes are from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA in Washington State. The fruit was harvested at night, crushed and pressed immediately and fermented cool in stainless steel. It has aromas and tangy flavours of lemon with a crisp finish. 89.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Chardonnay 2024 ($18.99 for 398 cases). The grapes are from the Wahluke AVA in Washington State. This is an appealing fruit-forward wine with aromas and flavours of apple and pineapple. 90.

Bartier Bros. Pristine Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2024 ($19.99 for 333 cases). The grapes are from the Wahluke Slope AVA. They are harvested at night and pressed immediately. Fermentation was moderately cool in stainless steel. The wine presents with an appealing rose petal hue. It begins with aromas of strawberry and red plum, leading to flavours of strawberry and cherry. The structure is full and satisfying. 91.

Bartier Bros. Illegal Curve 2022 ($21.99 for 920 cases). This is a blend of 51% Cabernet Franc, 48% Petit Verdot and 1% Pinot Noir. Fermentation temperature was allowed to spike to 29C, with 21 days of skin contact. The wine was aged 14 months in neutral French oak. The wine begins with aromas of cherry, raspberry and blackberry. The palate delivers those flavours mingled with coffee and mocha. 92.

Bartier Bros. Cabernet Franc 2022 ($29.99 for 1,251 cases). The grapes are from the Black Sage Terrace Vineyard near Oliver. The blend includes 8% Syrah and 1% Petit Verdot. Fermentation temperatures were allowed to spike, with 26 days of skin contact. The wine was aged 14 months in neutral French oak. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry and black currant, which are echoed on the palate along with cherry flavours. 92.

Bartier Bros. Merlot 2022 ($25.99 for 1,264 cases). The grapes are from the Cerqueira and Black Sage Terrace Vineyards. Fermentation was allowed to spike to 22C, with 22 days of maceration. The wine was aged 15 months in neutral French oak. The wine has aromas and flavours of blueberry and cherry, with long, ripe tannins giving the wine a long finish. 90.

Bartier Bros. Pinot Noir 2022 ($39.99 for 224 cases). This is 97% Pinot Noir from the Thadd Springs Vineyard in the Thompson River Valley, with 3% Petit Verdot from a Similkameen vineyard. The latter varietal likely was in the blend to add colour. The wine was aged 17 months in neutral oak. It begins with aromas of cherries and spice. Full-bodied, it delivers flavours of cherry and plum with a note of forest floor on the finish. 90.

Bartier Bros. Syrah 2022 ($29.99 for 311 cases). This wine, which has 7% Merlot in the blend, is made from grapes from the winery’s Cerqueira Vineyard. Fermentation temperatures were allowed to run high; and the wine stayed on the skins for 23 days. It was aged 16 months in French oak. The wine has aromas and flavours of dark fruits mingled with black pepper. The texture is generous and the finish is long. 90.