Township 7's Interlude Series fills in for the Okanagan's lost 2024 vintage

Photo: Winemaker Mary McDermott

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery quickly followed its early spring release of four VQA wines with a late spring release of four 2024 wines made with imported fruit and labelled as the Interlude Series. An unavoidable delay on my part resulted in notes on both releases be presented this summer. The VQA wines are from several of the best recent vintages from the Okanagan: 2021, 2022 and 2023. The January 2024 freeze eliminated that vintage in the Okanagan.

In her notes accompanying the wines, Township 7 winemaker Mary McDermott put the Interlude wines in their context: the freeze in January 2024 forced the winery (and many of its peers) to import grapes for that vintage. “In past years, particularly 2021 and 2023, I noted those vintages were among the most challenging we’d faced,” she wrote. “It turns out I spoke too soon. We entered the 2024 season with optimism following a mild fall and winter. Unfortunately, that hope was quickly dashed by a devastating cold snap in mid-January. Temperatures plummeted from 0◦C on January 10th to -14◦C the next day, then to -23◦C on January 12, ultimately bottoming out at -27◦C on January 13. The result was catastrophic vine death and severe crop loss. Early bud tests revealed no signs of life, and we braced for the worst – preparing to replant nearly everything.”

She continues her narrative: “To our relief, many vines produced cane growth and leaves. In Naramata, most vines survived, but Oliver suffered extensive damage, forcing us to remove entire blocks of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. These will be replanted in 2025.” “Given the crop loss in the South Okanagan, we sourced premium fruit from trusted growers in Washington State and California to meet production needs,” Mary added. “This ensured our business’s sustainability, kept our valued team employed, and allowed us to continue investing in our vineyards – all while providing our cherished customers with the quality wines they expect from Township 7."

While most consumers will find Interlude (and similar wines from other wineries) to be adequate stand-ins, the quality of the VQA wines reminds us what great terroir what great terroir there is in British Columbia in most vintages.

Here are notes on the two releases.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Gewürztraminer 2022 ($29.97 for 198 cases). Here is a serious Gewürztraminer that one might think is from a top producer in Alsace. It begins with aromas of lychee and ginger, leading to complex flavours of lychee, quince and stone fruits. The luscious palate leads to a long, long finish. 92.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Viognier 2023 ($30.97 for 106 cases). Made with South Okanagan fruit, this wine was fermented in neutral French oak barrels. This is a stellar example of the varietal, beginning with aromas of pear and guava with a hint of vanilla. Rich in texture, the wine delivers flavours of mango, guava and pineapple. 92.

Township 7 Provenance Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($33.97 for 383 cases). There is 5% Merlot blended into this elegant wine. The wine begins with aromas of black currant, dark cherry and plum, which is echoed on the palate. The firm tannins suggest the wine should be decanted for early consumption; it will also age superbly. 91.

Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve 7 2021 ($44.97 for 453 cases). This is a blend of 53.5% Merlot, 35.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10.8% Cabernet Franc. It is a big, ripe wine, beginning with aromas of black cherry, black currant and a hint of tobacco. The palate delivers what the aroma promises along with cedar and spice on the finish. 92.

Township 7 Interlude Series Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($26.97 for 340 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Bacchus Vineyard in Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. The juice was fermented cool, primarily in stainless steel as well as two second-fill French barriques to add texture. This is a zesty wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Pinot Gris 202b>4 ($26.97 for 430 cases). The fruit for this wine came from a vineyard near Chelan in Washington state. The golden hue and rich palate suggests the wine had more skin contact that the technical notes suggest. There are flavours of ripe nectarines. 88.

Township 7 Interlude Series Chardonnay 2024 ($27.97 for 432 cases). The fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard in California’s Russian River Valley near Sonoma. The wine is fruit-forward, with aromas and flavours of apple and pear. 90.

Township 7 Interlude Series Rosé 2024 ($29.97 for 328 cases). The fruit for this wine is Pinot Noir from California’s Russian River Valley. The dark hue presents will in the glass but is perhaps unfashionably dark. A juicy wine, it has aromas and flavours of cherry and wild strawberry. 90.

Bordertown's Gill family launches sister winery

Photo: Mohan Gill

The new 2024 releases from Bordertown Cider & Winery in Osoyoos will take consumers by surprise: the three whites coming to market are all VQA wines, meaning they were made with Okanagan fruit, not imported grapes. Most of the vineyards supporting Mohan Gill’s Bordertown are close to Osoyoos Lake. During the January 2024 freeze that devastated most Okanagan vineyards, the lake had not yet frozen over. There was just enough residual warmth in the open water to moderate the temperatures so that the surviving vines were able to produce from fruit in the fall of 2024.

While the production was well below the usual volume, Mohan at least has some VQA wine to sell. Not much, however. The winery released 275 cases of Pinot Gris from 2024, down from 3,584 cases in 2023; 78 cases of Viognier from 2024, down from 265 cases the year before; and 42 cases of Grüner Veltliner from 2024, down from 350 cases the year before. Those numbers imply that Mohan had enough surviving vines that Bordertown’s production should rebound in 2025. So far, this growing season has had a promising start.

Fans of Bordertown this year have the option of new wines from After 93 Vineyards & Estate Winery, a sister producer run by Mohan’s nephew, Sukhvir Gill. On its web page, After 93 explains that the brand has been created to further a legacy: “A legacy which the Gill family began in 1993 when they first moved to Canada. Their odyssey epitomises the progression of three generations … dedicated to the pursuit of growing premium vinifera grapes and crafting extraordinary wines ….” Sukhvir is one of the four third-generation Gill family members growing wines. They farm over 200 acres of vineyards spread throughout the Okanagan from Osoyoos to Peachland and West Kelowna. After 93’s wines will focus of small lot vineyard blocks.

The text elaborates on the owner’s biography: “Sukhvir represents the next generation of the Gill family, bringing innovation and ambition to the family’s long-standing legacy. After earning his degree from the Sauder School of Business in 2020, Sukhvir entered the family business with determination and vision. Having grown up in Osoyoos, BC, he spent his formative years immersed in the world of orchards, vineyards, and winemaking, closely observing and learning from his father, Gurmit, and uncle, Mohan. Deeply inspired by the decades of hard work and dedication that built his family’s success, Sukhvir recognized his purpose in carrying forward and expanding their legacy. With Bordertown Winery already established as a testament to the Gill family’s commitment to excellence, he saw an opportunity to take their business to new heights by reaching broader markets and introducing their wines to a global audience. In 2021, this vision took shape with the creation of After 93—a brand born from innovation, heritage, and a desire to redefine wine experiences for a new generation."

“Sukhvir created After 93 with a singular vision: to elevate the wine experience for customers and ensure every interaction reflects the passion and craftsmanship behind each bottle. Building on the rich legacy of the Gill family and the success of Bordertown Winery, Sukhvir recognized the need to go beyond simply producing exceptional wines. He envisioned a brand that prioritizes the customer journey, from vineyard to glass, ensuring that every sip embodies quality, authenticity, and care.” After 93’s consulting winemaker is Daniel Bontorin, also the long-time consultant for Bordertown.

Here are notes on the wines.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2024 ($22 for 275 cases). This wine won a gold medal at the recent All-Canadian Wine Championships. The wine, which was aged in stainless steel, has aromas of peach and pear, leading to flavours of citrus, orchard fruits and a hint of pineapple. 91

Bordertown Viognier 2024 ($22 for 78 cases). This wine was made with Osoyoos fruit, with just one ton per acre, reflecting the impact of the frost on production. The result, however, is a wine more luscious and concentrated that usual. It has aromas and flavours of peach, mango, pineapple and quince. 92.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2024 ($22 for 42 cases). This wine was also made with Osoyoos fruit from vines that yielded just one ton an acre. The wine is crisp and fresh, with citrus notes lifted with bright acidity. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($22 wholesale for 1,199 cases). Made with Osoyoos fruit, the wine was aged between 12 and 18 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis spring from the glass. The palate delivers flavours of black currant, dark cherry and spice. 92.

After 93 Pinot Gris 2023 ($28 for 518 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Gill family’s vineyard in West Kelowna. The wine has been aged 18 months in stainless steel. It has aromas and flavours of peach and pear with a full texture and a satisfying finish. 91.

After 93 Moscato Frizzante 2023 ($30 for 315 cases). The fruit for this sparkling wine is from the Gill family’s Osoyoos vineyard, where 1.2-acres of Muscat grapes were planted in 2010. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel and has been lightly carbonated. It features intensely spicy aromas and flavours with a crisp, dry finish. 91.

After 93 Rosé Frizzante NV ($30 for 291 cases). The grapes in this sparkling wine are one-third Merlot, two-thirds Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was fermented separately in stainless steel, then blended and aged 18 months in stainless steel. It was lightly carbonated at bottling. This presents in the glass with visually appealing rose petal hues and a light effervescence. It has aromas and flavours of raspberry and strawberry. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.

River Stone's strategy for survival

Photo: River Stone's Ted Cane

Few small wineries were as hard hit by the January 2024 freeze as River Stone Estate Winery, just north of Oliver. “After months of observation and analysis,” co-proprietor and winemaker Ted Kane wrote recently, “we concluded that not only did the freeze impact our entire crop from 2024, but there was evidence of long-term damage affecting between 40% and 95% of vines, depending on varietal and vineyard site.”

Anyone but Ted might have walked away from the business. In the 2020 edition of The Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, I noted how determined he was to be a winery owner in the first place: “The winery is owned by Ted and Lorraine Kane. Born in Edmonton in 1962, Ted was so focussed on wine growing that he grew grapes in a greenhouse there just to learn how. He and Lorraine, now a family physician, moved to Oliver in 2002 to plant a three -hectare (seven-acre) vineyard on land that, for all of its excellent viticultural qualities, had been fallow for 30 years.”

Instead of shutting the business down, Ted writes that: “We took action to ensure River Stone remained resilient. We planned for short-term and long-term solutions to allow us to continue our work as wine sellers and producers in the South Okanagan.” The long-term solution has involved replanting five of the seven acres of the River Rock Vineyard (the original vineyard) and six of the nine acres at the nearby Boulder City Vineyard (more recently acquired by River Stone). Many of the original varietals have been replanted; a few have been replaced.

River Stone’s short-term solution, like that of many of its peers, was to source grapes for the 2024 vintage from Washington State. “We partnered with growers … choosing vineyards that share our terroir and commitment to quality,” Ted continues. “This collaboration has allowed us to create a 2024 vintage of wines we are incredibly proud of. … We’ve named this collection Good Neighbours, a tribute to the camaraderie and partnership within our industry.”

It is obvious that River Stone’s newly planted vines will not produce grapes this fall. Ted writes that “2025 may bring another vintage sourced from Washington [but] we look forward to returning to estate fruit as our vineyards recover.”

The debut Good Neighbours collection consists of four white wines. They are, in my judgment, absolutely top quality, as I have come to expect from River Stone. Here are my notes.

River Stone Splash Good Neighbours 2024 ($23.90 for 361 cases). This is a blend of equal parts of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are from two Washington AVAs: Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke. The fruit was fermented cool with selected yeasts. This delicious blend is fruit salad in a glass, with aromas and flavours of apples and citrus fruits. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Chenin Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 208 cases). The grapes are from Washington’s Wahluke Slope AVA. This is a luscious wine, with aromas and flavours of peaches, pears and citrus. The texture is full and the finish is long. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($25.90 for 266 cases; plus 80 cases in 200 ml bottles). The grapes are from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The fruit was fermented cool with select yeast strains. This is a zesty, refreshing wine with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit mingled with herbs. The finish is crisp. 92.

River Stone Good Neighbours Unoaked Chardonnay 2024 ($24.90 for 183 cases). The fruit is from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The grapes were fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is a bright wine with flavours of green apples and pears that dance vivaciously on the palate. 9o.

Peller spells out vineyard recovery strategy

Photo: Tinhorn Creek's Leandro Nossal

Like most wineries in the Okanagan and Similkameen, the five B.C. wineries owned by Andrew Peller Ltd. had to source grapes from elsewhere. The hard freeze in January 2024 reduced the production from the interior vineyards to between 1% and 3% of normal. The Peller wineries that traditionally make VQA wines in B.C. are Gray Monk Estate Winery, Red Rooster Winery, Sandhill Wines, Tinhorn Creek Winery and Black Hills Estate Winery. The group sourced grapes last year from Washington State, Oregon and Ontario to make wines selling under similar regulations as if all were made from B.C. grapes under the usual VQA rules.

The wine industry got a one-year waiver in 2024 to make those wines. It is obvious from a booklet recently published by Peller that B.C. wineries may need the same privilege for several years. Peller estimates that between 43% and 79% of the vineyards need to be replanted, or between 5,579 and 10,233 acres. This is a massive undertaking. Leandro Nosal, the Tinhorn Creek winemaker, points out that it may take a year or two even to get vines from plant nurseries (in France or in the United States). Those vines will only begin producing a reasonable crop in their third year and the wines from those grapes will not be released to market for another year or two.

“For vineyards that don’t require extensive replanting,” the Peller brochure continues, “we are concentrating on restoring key areas to full health by regenerating vines from the base. This is a slow recovery process that will take at least three years to complete.” The brochure continues: “We are replanting with more resilient grape varieties, adopting innovative farming techniques, and investing in climate-adaptive technology like upgraded wind machines and insulation methods. These measures aim to ensure the long-term health of our vineyards. Rejuvenation and replanting efforts will take several years. We anticipate yields to gradually increase, with full production potentially resuming by 2027. Due to aging requirements, these wines may not be available for another two-three years after that.”

The Liquor Distribution Branch appears to have anticipated a need for imported grapes for several years. In October, 2024, the LDB issued a memorandum to the industry setting out in detail the regulations. Included was this paragraph: “The temporary requirements permitting commercial wineries to produce and sell Replacement Wines as Products of their Licensed Establishment will terminate on March 31, 2028. As of April 1, 2028, commercial wineries must return to full compliance with the terms and conditions of their original Commercial Winery Agreement.”

It might be a delicate matter for the BC wine industry to negotiate the right to keep making wines for several more years under the same favourable terms as exist this year. There is always a risk of a trade action against BC by the American wine industry. The reason: The provincial government pulled all American wines and other alcoholic products from BC liquor stores in March. Now the BC wineries are trying to fill those empty shelves with wines made with American grapes. One would not expect that the California Wine Institute to be very happy with that when their wines are shut out of this market.

In the four quarters to the end of 2024, sales of American wines in British Columbia totalled $124.3 million. In the same period, sales of BC wines (both VQA and non-VQA wines) totalled $511 million in this province. In my view, it would be prudent for British Columbia to do what Alberta and Saskatchewan have just done: allow American wines back into this market once consumers have had an adequate chance to become familiar with the “replacement” wines. They should be able to compete with American wines.

I have tasted enough of those wines to recommend them without hesitation. Here are notes of several that the Peller group showed to a small group of wine writers recently.

Grey Monk Washington Pinot Gris 2024: The wine is crisp and fresh, with aromas and flavours of pear, peach and citrus. 90.

Sandhill Small Lots Washington Viognier 2024: The wine has the classic texture of Viognier, with aromas and flavours of stone fruit and pineapple. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2024: The fruit is from the Yakima Valley. The wine was aged partially on concrete and barrels, giving it a full texture. The herbal notes mingled with hints of lime recall a Sancerre white. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Washington Rosé 2024: This is a blend of 88% Syrah and 6% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine presents with an appealing rose-petal hue, with aromas and flavours of wild strawberry and watermelon. 91.