Blue Mountain's elegant sparkling wines

The International Wine & Food Society has just sent its members an excellent booklet: Sparkling Wines of the World by Essi Avellan, Finland’s first Master of Wine. The Canadian section in this 102-page monograph is a mere two paragraphs. She singles out just five producers to recommend: Benjamin Bridge in Nova Scotia; Huff Estates in Prince Edward County; Tawse Winery and Henry of Pelham Winery in Ontario’s Niagara region; and Township 7 in British Columbia.

I agree with those, having personally tasted exceptional sparkling wines from both Benjamin Bridge and Township 7. But there is also a glaring omission in Ms. Avellan’s recommendation: Blue Mountain Vineyards. This Okanagan winery has produced consistently fine sparkling wines since 1991. The wines have been especially impressive since Blue Mountain began releasing its “recently disgorged” wines about 10 years ago. These well-aged sparkling wines are world class. I am not surprised that Ms. Avellan missed Blue Mountain. I doubt that Blue Mountain sends its wine to the big London wine competitions where Masters of Wine judge and taste. Blue Mountain has never chased awards, confident in the quality of its wines. And the winery has a legion of fans.

The winery began holding back some of its traditionally-made sparkling wines for relatively long aging on the lees about 2011. This is a common practice in Champagne and among top sparkling producers around the world. The object is to make wines that are more complex in flavour. To see the difference, taste a bottle of Prosecco side by side any of the wines reviewed here. Prosecco is the Italian sparking wine that has become massively popular in this market in the past decade, with good reason: the wines are appealing fresh and lively and are amazingly cheap for the quality. Most have been fermented in stainless steel and seldom spend much time on the lees.

Blue Mountain’s R.D. wines may spend as long as eight years on the lees in bottles before being disgorged. Prolonged lees aging allows the wines to develop complex flavours and creamy textures that are the hallmark of top bubblies. The R.D. wines necessarily are more expensive, reflecting the additional years these wines are aged. The reward for tying up capital for five years to eight years is remarkably sophisticated wine. Having said that, Blue Mountain’s prices are quite reasonable compared with competing sparkling wines. Here are notes on what Ms. Avellan missed:

Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut ($28). This wine, made with grapes from the 2022 vintage, spent two to three years on the lees before being disgorged and bottled, The wine begins with a display of fine bubbles and toasty notes in the aroma. On the palate there are flavours of lemon. The finish is crisp. 90.

Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2016 R.D. ($44). This wine spent 7 ½ years on the lees before being disgorged and a further 12 months in bottle before release. This is sophisticated sparkling wine with an active mousse that creates the sensation of a creamy palate even though the wine is dry. There are lovely notes of brioche in the aroma and on the palate. 93.

Blue Mountain Brut Rosé 2022 R.D. ($35). This is one of the winery’s most popular wines. It is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. An almost imperceptible amount of residual sugar gives the wine a little more body. In the glass, it has a golden hue and fine, persistent bubbles. The flavour has hints of strawberry. 93.

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut 2016 R. D. ($44). This is 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir. The wine spent seven years on the lees before being disgorged and then aged on year in bottle before release. The wine has fine bubbles. It has aromas and flavours of apples and strawberries mingled with toasty characters. A very elegant wine. 95.