Bordertown's Gill family launches sister winery

Photo: Mohan Gill

The new 2024 releases from Bordertown Cider & Winery in Osoyoos will take consumers by surprise: the three whites coming to market are all VQA wines, meaning they were made with Okanagan fruit, not imported grapes. Most of the vineyards supporting Mohan Gill’s Bordertown are close to Osoyoos Lake. During the January 2024 freeze that devastated most Okanagan vineyards, the lake had not yet frozen over. There was just enough residual warmth in the open water to moderate the temperatures so that the surviving vines were able to produce from fruit in the fall of 2024.

While the production was well below the usual volume, Mohan at least has some VQA wine to sell. Not much, however. The winery released 275 cases of Pinot Gris from 2024, down from 3,584 cases in 2023; 78 cases of Viognier from 2024, down from 265 cases the year before; and 42 cases of Grüner Veltliner from 2024, down from 350 cases the year before. Those numbers imply that Mohan had enough surviving vines that Bordertown’s production should rebound in 2025. So far, this growing season has had a promising start.

Fans of Bordertown this year have the option of new wines from After 93 Vineyards & Estate Winery, a sister producer run by Mohan’s nephew, Sukhvir Gill. On its web page, After 93 explains that the brand has been created to further a legacy: “A legacy which the Gill family began in 1993 when they first moved to Canada. Their odyssey epitomises the progression of three generations … dedicated to the pursuit of growing premium vinifera grapes and crafting extraordinary wines ….” Sukhvir is one of the four third-generation Gill family members growing wines. They farm over 200 acres of vineyards spread throughout the Okanagan from Osoyoos to Peachland and West Kelowna. After 93’s wines will focus of small lot vineyard blocks.

The text elaborates on the owner’s biography: “Sukhvir represents the next generation of the Gill family, bringing innovation and ambition to the family’s long-standing legacy. After earning his degree from the Sauder School of Business in 2020, Sukhvir entered the family business with determination and vision. Having grown up in Osoyoos, BC, he spent his formative years immersed in the world of orchards, vineyards, and winemaking, closely observing and learning from his father, Gurmit, and uncle, Mohan. Deeply inspired by the decades of hard work and dedication that built his family’s success, Sukhvir recognized his purpose in carrying forward and expanding their legacy. With Bordertown Winery already established as a testament to the Gill family’s commitment to excellence, he saw an opportunity to take their business to new heights by reaching broader markets and introducing their wines to a global audience. In 2021, this vision took shape with the creation of After 93—a brand born from innovation, heritage, and a desire to redefine wine experiences for a new generation."

“Sukhvir created After 93 with a singular vision: to elevate the wine experience for customers and ensure every interaction reflects the passion and craftsmanship behind each bottle. Building on the rich legacy of the Gill family and the success of Bordertown Winery, Sukhvir recognized the need to go beyond simply producing exceptional wines. He envisioned a brand that prioritizes the customer journey, from vineyard to glass, ensuring that every sip embodies quality, authenticity, and care.” After 93’s consulting winemaker is Daniel Bontorin, also the long-time consultant for Bordertown.

Here are notes on the wines.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2024 ($22 for 275 cases). This wine won a gold medal at the recent All-Canadian Wine Championships. The wine, which was aged in stainless steel, has aromas of peach and pear, leading to flavours of citrus, orchard fruits and a hint of pineapple. 91

Bordertown Viognier 2024 ($22 for 78 cases). This wine was made with Osoyoos fruit, with just one ton per acre, reflecting the impact of the frost on production. The result, however, is a wine more luscious and concentrated that usual. It has aromas and flavours of peach, mango, pineapple and quince. 92.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2024 ($22 for 42 cases). This wine was also made with Osoyoos fruit from vines that yielded just one ton an acre. The wine is crisp and fresh, with citrus notes lifted with bright acidity. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($22 wholesale for 1,199 cases). Made with Osoyoos fruit, the wine was aged between 12 and 18 months in French oak. Aromas of cassis spring from the glass. The palate delivers flavours of black currant, dark cherry and spice. 92.

After 93 Pinot Gris 2023 ($28 for 518 cases). The fruit for this wine is from the Gill family’s vineyard in West Kelowna. The wine has been aged 18 months in stainless steel. It has aromas and flavours of peach and pear with a full texture and a satisfying finish. 91.

After 93 Moscato Frizzante 2023 ($30 for 315 cases). The fruit for this sparkling wine is from the Gill family’s Osoyoos vineyard, where 1.2-acres of Muscat grapes were planted in 2010. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel and has been lightly carbonated. It features intensely spicy aromas and flavours with a crisp, dry finish. 91.

After 93 Rosé Frizzante NV ($30 for 291 cases). The grapes in this sparkling wine are one-third Merlot, two-thirds Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was fermented separately in stainless steel, then blended and aged 18 months in stainless steel. It was lightly carbonated at bottling. This presents in the glass with visually appealing rose petal hues and a light effervescence. It has aromas and flavours of raspberry and strawberry. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90.