Burrowing Owl and Wild Goose wines released

Photo: Burrowing Owl's Keller Vineyard in autumn 2024 (photo courtesy of Burrowing Owl)

Fans of Burrowing Owl Estate Winery can take comfort from the winery’s deep inventory of superlative red wines and from the somewhat limited frost damage suffered in the devastating 2024 freeze in the south Okanagan.

“Our home vineyard in Oliver did not produce much in terms of fruit,” Stephen Neumann, the winery’s brand ambassador, told me a few months ago. “We had a bit more luck with yields coming out of the 46 acres we have on the east side of Osoyoos. Shockingly, a particular 12-acre vineyard site of ours down there (the Keller Vineyard) dedicated to Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon) seemed not to have been affected by the frost at all. We consider ourselves lucky for this, and although some replanting will take place on our properties in 2025, a great number of our vines did survive.” Other growers close to Osoyoos Lake tell a similar tale: the open waters of the lake tempered the climate in nearby vineyards. The cold did not always drop to a vine-killing temperature for a prolonged period. It is unusual for Osoyoos Lake not to be frozen over in January. However, the autumn of 2023 was mild and prolonged, holding off the usual freezing over of the lake by mid-winter. The open water saved many nearby vineyards. For the same reason, many Naramata vineyards lost buds but not always vines because Okanagan Lake tempered the climate there.

Because it had some production in the 2024 vintage, along with a deep inventory, Burrowing Owl did not import grapes for its own brand in 2024. “We have decided to hold to Burrowing Owl Estate Winery’s pledge to continue crafting wines from our vineyards in BC alone.” It was a different story with Wild Goose Winery, which Burrowing Owl owns. “As Wild Goose Winery has often relied on purchased fruit,” Stephen wrote, “it was decided that we would bring in juice from Washington and Oregon to continue production of wines under the Wild Goose Winery and Calliope Wines brands.” As with many Okanagan producers, the winery wanted to keep its production staff employed and the Wild Goose (and Calliope) brands in the market.

In a more recent note, Stephen wrote: “The 2025 season is off to a flying start, up to two weeks early with budbreak in our vineyards.”

Here are notes on recent releases.

Wild Goose Autumn Gold 2024 ($23.10). Grapes for this blend (varietal mix is not disclosed) were sourced in Washington and Oregon. This is a delicious wine in the familiar Wild Goose style: aromatic, packed with orchard fruit aromas and flavours, with a hint of residual sweetness. 90.

Wild Goose Chardonnay 2024 ($21.10). The grapes for this wine were sourced from vineyards in Oregon. This is a fruit-forward style, with aromas and flavours of apple and nectarine. The finish is crisp. 89.

Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2023 ($45). The fruit, after being destemmed and crushed, has three days of cold soak before a long 25-day fermentation. The wine was aged nine months in French oak (36% new). The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry, strawberry and raspberry with a touch of spice on the lingering finish. 91.

Burrowing Owl Malbec 2021 ($40). The grapes came from two of the winery’s Osoyoos vineyards. The wine was aged 16 months in oak (55% French, 30% American and 15% Hungarian, with 20% of the barrels being new). The wine begins with aromas of blackberry, chocolate and spice, leading to generous flavours of dark cherry, blackberry, blueberry and raspberry. The finish lingers. 92.

Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($45). Grown in one of the Okanagan’s finest vintages, this is a superb Cabernet Sauvignon. The long autumn allowed the grapes to develop concentrated flavours and long, ripe tannins. The wine was aged 18 months in oak (81% French, 12% Hungarian, 7% American, with just 10% of the barrels being new). The wine begins with aromas of cassis and blueberry, leading to delicious flavours of dark cherry, blackberry, spice and chocolate. The finish is persistent. 93.

Burrowing Owl Meritage 2021 ($53). The blend is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 18% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc. These were vinified and aged separately before being blended and given further aging. Total aging was 18 months. The barrel were 80% French and 27% new. This tightly-structured wine benefits from decanting, an indication that it will age well. As the wine opens, it evolves to a full-bodied, satisfying wine, beginning with aromas of dark cherry, black currant, black olives and spice. All of that is echoed on the palate. 95.