Hester Creek releases its Columbia Valley wines

Photo: Hester Creek's Mark Sheridan

Hester Creek Estate Winery near Oliver is one of the first Okanagan wineries to release 2024 vintage wines made with imported grapes. The quality of the wines should comfort all consumers who want to continue supporting their favourite wineries as they navigate the crisis caused by the almost total destruction of the 2024 grape crop in the Okanagan and Similkameen by sharp freeze in the early winter last year.

Many BC wineries turned to vineyards in Washington, Oregon, California and even Ontario for grapes. It was particularly fortunate that Washington had a massive surplus of well-grown grapes. Hester Creek was among the earliest of the BC wineries that contracted Washington grapes. “Located just south of the border, the proximity of the Columbia Valley … allowed me, a viticulturist by trade, to meet regularly with the growers,” writes Mark Sheridan, the president of Hester Creek. “I was able to personally choose the varietals best suited to the collection, which vineyards they were grown in, and supervise the growth of the vines for every stage of the growing season. The result was premium-quality grapes for our winemakers to craft with.” That supply of grapes enabled Hester Creek to keep its winemaking team busy throughout the vintage rather than laying off talent that would be hard to replace.

Mark continues: “… Purchasing grapes is allowing us to stay economically viable so we can continue to support British Columbia’s local wine industry. … We are able to maintain contracts with our local growers. [And] by putting wine in bottles, we are solidifying partnerships with businesses like Okanagan Label & Print and Artus Bottling – both located in Penticton.” He adds: “We still have a long-term commitment to supporting the BC VQA. Not only will our 2022 vintage of Okanagan VQA red wines be released in 2025, but we are hopeful that our vines and those of our growers will make a full recovery and allow us to return to 100% BC VQA in our portfolio.”

It is obvious that most Okanagan and Similkameen vineyards (some of which had to be replanted) will not be able to produce full crops for a few more years. The BC government will be asked to extend the regulatory waivers that are allowing the 2024 imported grape wines to benefit from mark-up exemptions normally reserved for VQA wines. There is a risk that might not happen. Premier David Eby, who has responded to the Trump tariff war with remarkably hostility, has said the concessions on making wine with imported grapes might be a one-time thing. Fortunately, his agriculture minister seems to be taking a more measured approach. Hindering access to American grapes would almost certainly put a number of BC wineries out of business. Trump’s tariff warriors would not even notice self-inflicted damage in BC.

Here are my notes on the first four Hester Creek wines from the Columbia Valley.

Hester Creek Pinot Gris 2024 ($19.99). The grapes for this wine came from a Yakima Valley vineyard. Harvested by hand, the fruit was transported the same day in temperature-controlled trucks to Hester Creek. After crush, the wine was fermented cool for 20 days and aged four months in stainless steel before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of apple, pear and stone fruits which are echoed on the palate. The moderate 12.5% alcohol keeps the wine light and refreshing, with a crisp finish. 90.

Hester Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($19.99). The grapes for this wine came from a vineyard in the White Bluffs AVA (American Viticultural Area) in the Columbia Valley. The hand-harvested fruit was delivered the same day to the Hester Creek winery. There, after two-days of cold settling, the wine was fermented cool for 21 days and then aged four months in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of lime and Meyer lemon, which is echoed on the palate. The lively citrus flavours mingle with herbaceous notes. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.

Hester Creek Viognier 2024 ($23.99). The grapes for this wine came from a vineyard in the Columbia Valley’s Goose Gap AVA. The hand-harvested fruit was taken to Hester Creek in temperature-controlled trucks. Whole berries went into the fermentation tanks where, after two days of cold-settling, the wine was fermented for 20 days and then aged five months before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of peach and apricot, leading to flavours of pear, quince and stone fruits. The texture is mouth-filling and the finish is long. 91.

Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc 2024 ($22.99). The grapes for this wine are from the Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs in the Columbia Valley. When the fruit arrived at Hester Creek, the bunches were hand-sorted, destemmed and allowed a three-day cold soak on the skins before a 21-day fermentation and four months aging in stainless steel. The relatively long skin contact extracted a deep ruby hue, darker than is currently fashionable for rosé wines. The wine begins with aromas of cherry and strawberry which are echoed the palate. A touch of residual sugar broadens the texture. 88.