Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Monday, November 28, 2022
Maverick Winery is on a roll
Photo: Winemaker Andrew Windsor
Since taking over Maverick Estate Winery early in 2020, winemaker Andrew Windsor and winery president Jan Nelson have built effectively on the winery’s excellent reputation for quality.
The current releases, many from the outstanding 2020 vintage, are among the best wines from the South Okanagan.
Andrew and Jan are backed by Bob and Barb Shaunessy, the former majority owners of Tinhorn Creek Estate Winery, who have provided Maverick with the resources to undertake a significant vineyard expansion.
The original estate vineyard, where planting began in 2009, has 7.4 acres under vine. Under its new owners, Maverick acquired 77 acres on the side of the mountain south of the winery and is developing additional vineyards there.
Photo: New mountainside vineyard, looking down on Maverick winery
The first 15 acres, at an elevation of 520 to 600 meters, were planted this year. Another 10 acres will be planted next year at elevations of 370 to 410 meters.
“We planted the bulk [of the upper vineyard] to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Franc,” Jan says. “We added in a half-acre each of Vermentino and Tempranillo. This may be the only Vermentino in BC.”
The lower vineyard will be planted to red varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and a half-acre each of Tempranillo and Petit Verdot.
The winery also leases three vineyards in the South Okanagan. With these and the new plantings, Maverick is positioned to expand significantly from the 3,900 cases it produced in 2019.
Andrew and Jan had met the Shaunessy couple at Tinhorn Creek, where Andrew, with a master’s degree in oenology from the University of Adelaide, had spent several years as chief winemaker.
Here are notes on Maverick’s current releases.
Maverick Chardonnay 2021 ($28.98 for 535 cases). This wine was fermented in and aged for six months in French oak. The oak flavours are very well integrated, leaving the tropical fruit flavours at the center of the stage. The wine is rich, a touch buttery, and has a long finish. 91.
Maverick Ella Brut Rosé NV ($34.98). This is 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay from the 2016 vintage. The wine was 36 months on the secondary fermentation lees before being disgorged. Fruity aromas mingled with yeasty notes. On the palate, there is lively mousse and flavours of raspberry. The wine is fresh and lively on the finish. 90.
Maverick Ella 2014 Family Reserve ($56.98). This wine is made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wine spent six years on the secondary fermentation lees before being disgorged. Its golden hue and fine mousse in the glass recalls (for me) Krug Champagne, as does the creamy texture. There are aromas and flavours of brioche mingled with ripe apple and a hint of honey. 94.
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Maverick Renegade 2019 ($39.98 for 420 cases). This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It was aged 18 months in French oak. The wine is full-bodied with aromas and flavours of dark cherry, spice and chocolate. The winery speaks of Black Forest cake and I agree. 92.
Maverick Renegade 2020 (Unavailable). The specifications are not yet available but, from the taste, I would assume the blend and price are similar to the 2019. Once again, it is a full-bodied wine with dark cherry aromas. There are rich flavours of black currant, plum and chocolate, with a lingering finish. 92.
Maverick Rubeus 2020 ($25.98). This is a blend of Bordeaux varietals with a healthy dollop of Syrah. The wine was aged 18 months in older French oak barrels. Aromas and flavours of dark fruit mingle with pepper and chocolate in this delicious wine. 92.
Maverick Bush Vine Syrah 2020 ($29.98 for 406 cases). This wine, which was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak, is packed with bold flavours. There are aromas of black plum, black pepper, spice and deli meats. On the palate, there are flavours of fig, plum, pepper and deli meats. Decanting allows the wine to express its qualities fully. 93.
Maverick Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($39.98 for 181 cases). This wine, Maverick’s first Cabernet Sauvignon, was fermented in open-top fermenters with natural yeast. It was aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. It is an elegant wine beginning with aromas of cassis and dark berries. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, black currant, blueberry, mocha and spice. The finish persists. 92.
Maverick Merlot 2020 ($39.98 for 288 cases). This is Maverick’s first Merlot. The winemaking process was similar to that employed for Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was also aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels (some were new) and bottled unfiltered. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and black cherry. On the palate, there are big, ripe flavours of plum, dark cherry, chocolate and cola. 92.
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