Frind releases for spring 2022

Photo: Markus Frind (courtesy Frind Estate Winery)

When the latest releases of wines from Frind Estate Winery arrived a month or so ago, they included the first wines I had seen from the 2021 vintage. I got a bit overeager in tasting them, having forgotten that recently-bottled wines need some time to settle in the bottle. I wondered why I was not getting Frind’s usual expression of fruitiness from the 2021 Big White or the 2021 Rosé. Then the penny dropped: the wines were still suffering a bit of bottle shock. I held off on the other 2021 whites for a few weeks and those wines, especially the Viognier, showed much better. I have also delayed tasting 2021 whites from several other wineries.

A helpful definition of bottle shock was published in 2011 in The Wine Spectator: “Bottle shock” or “bottle sickness” are terms used to describe a temporary condition in a wine where its flavors are muted or disjointed. There are two main scenarios when bottle shock sets in: either right after bottling, or when wines (especially fragile older wines) are shaken in travel. Usually, a few days of rest is the cure. The evidence for this phenomenon is more anecdotal than scientific, but the theory is that all the complex elements in wine (phenolics, tannins and compounds) are constantly evolving, both on their own and in relation to each other. Heat or motion can add stress to this evolution, causing the wine to shut down temporarily.”

I remember a tasting early one season of newly bottled white wines from CedarCreek Estate Winery. The winemaker at the time was the savvy Tom DiBello, a graduate of the University of California at Davis, perhaps California’s leading wine school. Before bottling the whites, Tom had drawn off tank samples and bottled them much more gently than those that went through the bottling line. He poured them side by side for those of us at the tasting. The tank samples all were much more expressive. The freshly bottled Gewürztraminer and Riesling, by comparison, smelled and tasted a bit dull.

It was nothing that a few weeks of bottle rest would not resolve. By the time recently bottled wines reach most consumers, bottle shock no longer is an issue. I look forward to finding these Frind wines at retail this spring and discovering what I missed in February.

The Frind winery is on a lakefront property in West Kelowna that, for more than 50 years, belonged to the Bennett family: both W.A.C Bennett and his son, Bill, served as premiers of British Columbia. In the fall of 2017, when former technology entrepreneur Markus Frind began planning a major winery, he purchased the 5.5-hectare (13.5-acre) Bennett property because it is strategically located on the Westside Wine Trail. This property is the tip of the iceberg of one of the Okanagan’s most ambitious wineries. Markus also owns about 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of vineyard land, some of it being developed so that it can be farmed, in large measure, with self-driving machinery. If this succeeds, it will represent a breakthrough of precision agriculture amid Okanagan vineyards – by a winery owner whose initial success was with a dating web site called Plenty of Fish. He created it in 2003 and sold it in 2015 for $575 million.

Now, that success is benefitting the British Columbia wine industry. Here are notes on the recent releases.

Frind Viognier 2021 ($23.99). Rich and aromatic, this wine begins with aromas of pineapple and stone fruits. On the palate, there are layers of tropical fruits including pineapple, guava and orange, finishing with the classic spine of the varietal. 91.

Frind The Baroness 2021 ($24.99). This elegant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon. Viognier and Chardonnay commands the table with the authority inherent in the name. The winery explains: “Named after Annie Frinds' grandmother, die Baronesse Bianca Von Hahn (Germany), this wine was created to honour the families heritage dating back to the 1500's.” It begins with aromas of apple and pineapple, leading to flavours of quince and apple mingled with peach. The finish is dry and persists on the palate. 92.

Frind Big White 2021 ($20.99). The wine is crisp and fresh, with notes of grapefruit and peach. The wine was suffering from bottle shock. As a result, my rating is my best guess of how the wine will rank when it has had another month or so. 89.

Frind Chardonnay 2020 ($25.99). This is a fruit-forward Chardonnay, with aromas and flavours of apple, pineapple and citrus. Bright acidity gives the wine a certain austerity. 90.

Frind Riesling 2020 ($24.99). The Riesling grape is one over which winemaker Eric von Krosigk has shown mastery throughout his career. This is another fine example, beginning with aromas of lemon and petrol. The complex palate includes flavours of citrus mingled with apple and peach. There is a delicate touch of petrol on the dry finish. 92.

Frind Rosé 2021 ($19.99). The dark hue signals that this is a robust rosé demanding to be paired with food. It has aromas of strawberry, leading to flavours of plum, and strawberry. 88.

Frind Big Red 2020 ($22.99). The blend is complex: 49% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 12 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Maréchal Foch, 5% Pinot Noir, 3% Syrah, 2% Teroldego and 1% Malbec. The wine was aged in 60% French oak barrels and 40% American oak. Twenty per cent of the barrels were new.The wine has aromas and flavours of plum and black cherry. 88.

Frind The Premier 2020 ($39.99). The winery’s flagship red, this is a blend of 58% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Marquette, 6.5% Petit Verdot, 3.5% Syrah, 5.5% Teroldego, 1.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. The wine was aged 12 months in French and American oak. This wine is dark in colour and rich in texture. The aromas of plum and cherry are echoed on the palate, mingling with spice and chocolate. 92.