Tuesday, December 28, 2021

Gray Monk duo of year-end releases

Photo: Winemaker Jen Oishi (courtesy Gray Monk Estate Winery)
This is the time of year when the most sparkling wine is consumed, unless, like me, you enjoy bubble in every season. I would drink the Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut 2018 on any occasion. Gray Monk Estate Winery in Lake Country is one of the Okanagan’s pioneering wineries. Founded by George and Trudy Heiss, it will be celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2022. The Heiss family sold the winery in 2017 to Andrew Peller Ltd. The winery, which is now in a grand building that could be a chateau in Europe, remains a destination stop for the many wine tourists who come to Lake Country each summer.
Monk’s Blend is a new addition to the portfolio, made with grapes grown in the South Okanagan, where Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are classic blends with such wineries as Burrowing Owl. Producers in Australia and California may have been leaders in creating these blends. The blend works because Cabernet Sauvignon contributes structure while Syrah brings flesh and fruit to the party. Arguably, this blend can be more satisfying that many Meritage blends but not as suitable for aging. Winemaker Jen Oishi’s blend for the sparkling wine is clever. The Chardonnay Musqué brings fruity aromas and flavours while the Riesling and the Pinot Blanc add structure and acid.
Jen Oishi was born and raised in the Okanagan, immersed in the Okanagan way of life. Growing up surrounded by orchards and vineyards peaked her interest in the wine industry. After completing her degree in Microbiology from the University of British Columbia, Jen joined the Gray Monk team in 2011. It was here that she was able to pair her love of science with the artistic side of winemaking. Here are notes on the two wines.
Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut 2018 ($26 for 1,330 cases). This traditional method is a blend of 53% Chardonnay Musqué, 30% Riesling and 17% Pinot Blanc. The secondary fermentation was in bottle and the wine rested on the lees in bottle for 18 months before being disgorged. The wine has quite active and creamy mousse. It begins with aromas of brioche and fruit. On the palate, there are peach mingled with lemon and green apple. The finish is dry. 90.
Gray Monk Monk’s Blend 2020 ($17.99). This is a blend of 73% Syrah and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon. Each varietal was fermented separately and aged both in stainless steel and in French and American oak barrels (mostly two and three years old) for eight months. The wine begins with aromas of plum, cherry and spice from the barrels, all of which is echoed on the palate. There is a hint of pepper and licorice on the finish. The tannins are soft and silky. Serving this wine very slightly chilled accentuates the fruit. 90.

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