Gray Monk Estate Winery was acquired in 2017 by Andrew Peller
Ltd.
Most of the current portfolio was still made under the original
owners and by winemakers Roger Wong (below left) and George Heiss Jr. (below right). The latter left soon
after the Heiss family sold the winery.
One would expect changes will come under Peller. Some of the
growers that had supplied Gray Monk for years now are selling their grapes to
other producers, likely because Peller has a number of its own vineyards.
I don’t expect that to impact negatively on the quality of
Gray Monk wines. Peller manages its vineyards well.
The Gray Monk portfolio, which is lengthy, might be pruned a
bit going forward. I don’t expect Peller to be quite as emotionally invested in
Siegerrebe and Rotberger as the Heiss family was.
Pinot Gris will certainly retain a major presence in the
portfolio, if only because Gray Monk pioneered that varietal in the Okanagan. It
is now the most widely planted white in British Columbia. Gray Monk is still a
leading producer.
Gray Monk once produced just white and rosé wines. Over the
last decade and especially after the winery’s south Okanagan vineyard began
producing, the winery’s reds have also become impressive. Peller has access to
additional red varietals to support the red portfolio.
I also expect Peller will expand Gray Monk’s excellent portfolio
of sparkling wines. This has become one of the hottest categories in B.C. wine.
However, the Peller hand on this portfolio seems light, at least
so far. It could be a matter of not fixing what isn’t broken.
Here are notes on some of the current releases. The reserve
tier is called Odyssey.
Gray Monk Pinot Noir
2016 ($16.99). The wine presents with a light hue, signalling this is a
light Pinot Noir that benefits from being slightly chilled to bring out the
charm and the cherry flavours. 88.
Gray Monk Merlot 2015
($16.99). The wine begins with aromas of black currant, black cherry and
blueberry. The flavours are packed with dark fruits mingled with a hint of
vanilla and cedar. 90.
Gray Monk Cabernet
Merlot 2014 ($17.39). This wine begins with aromas of cherry and cassis,
echoed on the palate, along with flavours of black currant, chocolate and
tobacco. 90.
Gray Monk Odyssey
Merlot 2014 ($20.89). The wine begins with aromas of cassis and black
cherry. The texture and the fruit flavours are concentrated, with layers of
dark fruit mingled with vanilla,
blackberry, blueberry and spice. 91.
Gray Monk Odyssey
Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($26.09). This begins with aromas of cherry, cassis
and mint. The wine is generous on the palate with flavours of black cherry,
blueberry mingled with vanilla and tobacco. 92.
Gray Monk Odyssey
Meritage 2014 ($30.49). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. In the glass, it opens with aromas of toasted oak mingled with
dark fruit. On the palate, the flavours are rich and complex – black cherry,
blackberry and cassis. On the finish, dark fruits mingle with dark chocolate and
coffee. The flavours linger and linger. 93.
Gray Monk Odyssey III
($17.39 for 500 ml). This is a fine port-style fortified red with aromas and
flavours of black cherry, figs and spice. The finish lingers. 91.
Gray Monk Odyssey White
Brut 2015 ($23.99). This sparkling wine is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay
and Pinot Blanc. The wine is clean and fresh, with aromas of citrus, apple and
brioche and with a fruity palate. The finish is crisp. The overall impression
is elegance. 91.
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