In a convincing victory, wines
from Road 13 Vineyards took first and second place at this year’s BC Iconic
Reds competition.
Also noteworthy: A Road 13
wine took first place last year. In the eleven years of this competition, no
producer has had back to back triumphs.
Road 13 is operated by the
Luckhurst family. The winery and some of its vineyards are on the Golden Mile.
It also controls Blind Creek Vineyards in the Similkameen, where most of the
fruit for the two leading wines was grown.
The Iconic Reds competition originated with the SIP Wines
VQA store in Richmond. When that closed three years ago, sponsorship was taken
over by Sutton Place Wine Merchants.
The tasting, which the sponsors now bill as “British
Columbia’s Premier Wine Tasting Competition,” emerged from brainstorming
between the late John Levine and the owners of SIP Wines, Simon and Sandi Wosk.
John, a restaurateur and the founder of the Vancouver
International Wine Festival, was an extraordinary wine lover and a perceptive
champion of British Columbia wines. He recognized the dramatic increases in the
quality of the wines. The Iconic Reds competition was conceived to bring more
attention to these superb wines.
This year, about 110 tasters converged at a ballroom at Vancouver’s
Sutton Place Hotel to judge 20 of the Okanagan reds. The wines, which had been
decanted in the afternoon, were served blind one at a time in a random order. The
wines were not identified until the three-hour tasting was over.
At the end, the tasters voted for their top five picks, an
arbitrary but sensible number to prevent overwhelming the computer tabulation. In
fact, the points were tabulated for the top six.
The two Road 13 wines were not just winners, but received an
overwhelming proportion of the votes. Road 13 5 Element has a long history as
the winery’s premium red blend. The first release was created in the 2005
vintage by Michael Bartier, then the winemaker. Because it was a blend of four
Bordeaux varietals with a dash of Syrah, the wine was called 5th
Element. The name has remained even when there are more or fewer than five
varietals in the blend.
Blind Creek Collective, now a Road 13 label, was launched in
2016 as a joint venture that included a Vancouver wine merchant and J-M
Bouchard, a former winemaker at Road 13. He was so enthusiastic about the Blind
Creek Vineyard that the Luckhursts bought a controlling interest in the
property.
“If there is a vineyard which is going to stand out in five,
10 years in B.C., that will be it,” J-M told me several years ago as the
Collective was being formed. “I was tasting the 2013 Syrah one night beside the
RWT Barossa Shiraz from Penfolds.” (J-M once worked at that renowned Australian
winery). “For power and concentration, our Syrah killed it.”
I have listed the winners, followed by the others in
alphabetical order. The tasting notes are from the wineries where notes are
available. Otherwise, I have inserted my tasting notes.
These are 20 of the best reds from excellent recent
vintages. Some of these wines are hard to find but Sutton Place Wine Merchants
has allocations of all. The limited volumes mean buyers will need to move
quickly to get these.
1. Road 13
Vineyards 5th Element Red 2016 ($42.61 for 240 cases and 30
double magnums). The blend is 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 15% Petit
Verdot, aged 22 months in oak (33% new). Most
of the fruit is from the legendary Blind Creek Vineyard in the Similkameen
Valley. My tasting notes: “The wine begins with aromas of black
currant jam, black cherry and vanilla. The rich, ripe palate delivers flavours
of plum, black cherry, blackberry. There is a lingering finish of dark fruits
and spice.”
2. Blind Creek Collective Consensus 2015 ($52.17). The blend
is 32.5% Merlot, 29% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 18.5% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. Winery tasting
notes: “The 2015 Consensus is generous and dense
in colour. Intense aromas of cassis, black cherry and black berry leap out of
the glass and immediately begin telling the story of the tremendous 2015
growing season. The primary dark fruits are so prominent, that you have to dig
deep to find the notes of sage, vanilla and cigar box. The story of this wine
continues on the palate, where these flavours explode into a crescendo of
black-fruited splendor, storming out to all corners of your mouth, but held in
check by a vibrant acidity and plenty of fine-grained, opulent tannins.”
3. Cedar Creek The Last Word 2014 ($84.99 for 390 cases.) This is a blend of 34% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 9% Malbec. The fruit was fermented in concrete and the wine was aged 20
months in French oak. Winery tasting notes: “An all around intense experience.
Extraordinary wine from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec
co-fermented in concrete. Excellent tannin structure. Spicy, dark fruit will
evolve and intensify with age.”
4. Noble Ridge Reserve Meritage 2015 ($34.90 for 750 cases). This
is a blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% each of Cabernet Franc and
Malbec, aged 15 months in French and American oak (40% new). My tasting notes:
“Bold and ripe on the palate, the wine begins with aromas of cassis, black
cherry and chocolate. On the palate, the fruit is expressive, with flavours of
black currant, black cherry, tobacco and dark chocolate. The tannins are firm
but ripe.”
5. Poplar Grove Legacy 2014 ($53.08). The blend is 44% Cabernet Franc, 24%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 4% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine
aged 21 months in oak. My tasting notes: “This superb wine is from one of the
Okanagan’s best vintages and will age well. Already, it appeals with aromas of
cassis and black cherry. On the palate, there is rich, dark fruit mingling
sweetly with chocolate and spice.”
6. Black Sage Meritage 2015 ($60). The 10 best barrels were selected, with the
resulting blend being Merlot
4 barrels; Cabernet Sauvignon 3 barrels; Cabernet Franc 3 barrels; plus a splash
of Petit Verdot. Winery notes: “There are plenty of
cassis, blackberries, vanilla, dark chocolate and roasted coffee notes on the
nose. The palate displays luscious blackberries, rich dark plums, smoky toasted
notes and a lengthy finish of dark chocolate. The acidity is well balanced with
the rich full tannins in this full-bodied wine.”
B.C. Wine Studio Siren’s
Call Harmonious 2014 ($35). The blend is 44.4 % Merlot, 10.5%,
Cabernet Franc, 14.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.9% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot, 3.9%
Syrah 3.9%. Winery tasting notes: “Each batch was fermented separately and lovingly
tended with daily punch downs and 20+ days of skin contact to extract a rich
array of soft and big tannins and fruit notes. The nose shows cedar, dried
fruit, meaty, black currant and floral notes and the taste is big and round,
well balanced and firm, ripe tannins.”
Black Hills Nota
Bene 2016 ($59.90). The blend is 43.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
, 14.5% Cabernet Franc; aged 16 months in barrel. Winery’s notes: This wine
possesses intense aromas of raspberry, crushed violets and cassis on the nose. A
second sniff presents gentle scents of leather, white pepper and subtle menthol.
Flavours of raspberry and cocoa hit the palate and linger, revealing a full and
elegant mouthfeel with notes of earth and cigar box in the background.”
Clos du Soleil
Signature Red 2014 ($44.90). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The
wine was aged 16 months in French oak barrels. Winery tasting notes: “The
taster is enveloped in the dense aromatic profile of ripe red berries, forest
undergrowth, and hints of both cedar and mint. On the palate the wine is the
epitome of elegance with integrated flavours of blackcurrant, blackberry,
raspberry, and black pepper notes.”
Hester Creek The Judge 2015 ($49.95) This blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon was aged 24 months in barrel. Winery tasting notes: “A sumptuous
Bordeaux style wine that sums up the richness of a warm year, this red blend of
estate fruit has heady aromas of black cherry, malt, plum and caramel. Crafted
with nicely ripened fruit, enjoy a generous palate of black cherry, mocha, and
vanilla flavours with a touch of cedar and mint. Beautifully structured with
supple, fine-grained tannins.”
Intersection Axiom 2014 ($44.90 for 244 cases). This is a blend of
33% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Winery tasting
notes: “Ground coffee, dark chocolate, and cherry jam on the nose open up into
star anise, roasted capsicum, and black pepper. Hints of mushroom and cedar on
the palate point to the wine’s time in oak. Mouthfeel is rich and developed
with well-structured tannin that will continue to age for more than a decade.
The long finish lingers with tones of earthy plum preserves.”
Lake Breeze Tempest 2013 ($49.90). This is a blend
of 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% each of Malbec and Merlot. Winery tasting notes: “A classic Bordeaux blend …
aged in new French oak for 15 months, this wine is full and rich.”
Lariana Fifteen
2015 ($45 for 565 cases). This is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%
Syrah, and 17% Carménère, aged 18 months 85% French oak, 35% new. My tasting
notes: “This is a bold and generous wine. Aromas and
flavours of dark fruit mingle with spice, fig, dark chocolate and tobacco. The
wine has long, ripe and polished tannins.”
Laughing Stock Portfolio 2016 ($49.99). The blend is 51% Merlot, 24%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot, aged 20
months in French oak, 33% new. Winery tasting notes: “Baked plum, red fruits
and baking spice rise up from the glass like the TSX in a bull market. On the
palette this wine is lively and powerful with fresh tobacco leaves, vanilla
brioche, and cherry on the finish. This elegant blend has round tannins and a
long finish with lots of aging potential.”
La Stella Fortissimo 2016 ($29.99 for 2,087 cases). This
is a blend of 76% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Sangiovese, 7% Cabernet
Franc, aged 14 months in French and Slavonoan oak. Winery tasting notes: “The
large format puncheons and Hungarian/Slavonian oak are evident in the subtle
way the oak is present with whispers of baking spice notes. Overall the wine
has fantastic layers of fruit and savoury flavours. Bing cherry mingles with
red and black cherry fruit. Aromatic herbs and cured tobacco leaves are also
starting to emerge. The palate is layered.”
Mission Hill Oculus 2014 ($135). The blend is 50% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 15 months in French oak. Winery tasting notes: “Notes
of brambleberry, bing cherry and dark plum are complimented by hints of tobacco
and spice, all held together with great structure and concentration. This
vintage is full-bodied with tremendous freshness and length on the finish.”
Painted Rock Red
Icon 2015 ($54.99). The blend is 45% Merlot, 24%
Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18
months in new French oak (30% new). Winery tasting notes: “This wine invites
you in with rich aromas of blackberry, dark plums, cassis and sweet spices. The
palate, with its velvety tannins and high acid, offers bold and juicy black
fruit layered with pepper, baking spices, vanilla and chocolate.”
Perseus Invictus 2015 ($54.99). This is a blend of 42%
Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec. Winery tasting
notes: “This wine bursts out of the bottle with concentrated aromas of black
cherry, truffle and shades of pencil lead which lead into an opulent yet well
structured wine of impressive complexity. Flavours here straddle both old world
and new, with boysenberry, anise and dark chocolate hints.”
Summerhill “OM” 2014 ($74.75). The
blend is 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 5% Malbec, aged in French and
American oak barriques.
Winery tasting note: “Unfined and unfiltered.
Cellaring and decanting highly recommended.”
Vanessa Vineyard Right Bank 2014: ($39.99 for 1,090 cases). This is a blend of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet
Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 26 months in 90% new French and American
oak barrels. Winery tasting notes: “Deep garnet in colour with seductive aromas
which promise brambly fruit, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries with
smoky notes. The rich palate shows ripe black cherries, blackberries and a
dusting of cocoa with a lingering, pleasing finish.”
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