Photo: Tyler Harlton of TH Wines
Before he became a winemaker, Summerland-based Tyler Harlton
played eight seasons of professional hockey and seldom had more than 60 penalty
minutes a season.
Everyone who meets this laid-back artisan is surprised his
penalty minutes were even that high. He is as gentle a personality as you will
find in the Okanagan wine industry.
And he hangs out with other artisanal winemakers. In June,
TH Wines, as he calls his winery, joined five other small wineries for an informal
tasting in Vancouver . They should consider keeping this league
together. Their personalities and winemaking styles are quite complimentary.
TH Wines is one of the smaller of these producers, making
just 1,100 cases in 2013. The winery was established three years ago in
quarters that Tyler
rented in an industrial park in Summerland. His business model calls for
spending money on buying grapes and getting the brand established before tying up
capital in a vineyard or in a fancy building. He opened a modest tasting room
this year for the first time.
He may be operating on a shoestring but that is not
reflected in to quality of the wines. These are notes on the wines.
TH Wines By Hand
White 2013 ($19.99 for 468 cases). The name of this wine is inspired by the
new labels – the image of two hands on a wine barrel. They are Tyler ’s hands and the image underlines the
artisanal approach here. This wine is 84% Chardonnay, 16% Sauvignon Blanc. It
is a richly textured wine with flavours of pear and apple mingled with herbs.
The finish lingers. 90.
Th Wines Viognier
2013 ($N/A). This is a classic Viognier, with a creamy texture and with
apricot and peach aromas and flavours. The finish lasts and lasts. 90.
TH Wines Rosé 2013 ($21.99
for 119 cases). This is made with Merlot with a splash of Malbec and
Chardonnay. It has aromas and flavours of apples and strawberries. The texture
is generous and the finish is dry. 89.
TH Wines Pinot Noir
2012 ($29.99 for 270 cases). This is an utterly seductive Pinot Noir. The
silky texture and the pretty aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry make
this a charming wine with a finish that lingers. 91.
TH Wines Cabernet
Merlot 2012 ($34.99 for 306 cases.) The
blend here is two-thirds Cabernet Franc, a varietal that Tyler favours. The other third is Merlot and
Malbec. The wine has brambly flavours of blackberry and cherry on a foundation
of earthy notes and long ripe tannins. 90.
Little Farm may well be the smallest licensed winery (or
close to it) in the Similkameen and Okanagan. Production in 2013 totalled 353
cases, with the target at full production being 800 cases.
Little Farm
Chardonnay 2013 ($29.90 for 68 cases). Crisp and refreshing and reminiscent
of Chablis, this wine has delicate citrus aromas and flavours of grapefruit and
green apple. 88.
Little Farm Riesling
2013 ($29.90 for 115 cases). In the style of German Riesling, this wine
spent some time in neutral oak barrels, gaining texture and softening the
bracing acidity. The wine has citrus aromas and tangy citrus flavours wrapped
around a nice spine of minerals. The finish is dry. 90.
Little Farm Rosé 2013
($24.90 for 170 cases). This is made with Cabernet Franc and it displays
the vivacity of the varietal. There are aromas and flavours of strawberry and
raspberry, with notes of herbs and pepper on the dry finish. 90.
Also in Tyler ’s
circle is Orofino Vineyards, also of Cawston. John and
Virginia Weber (right) moved from Saskatchewan
in 2001 to take over a six-acre vineyard and, within a few years, become
accomplished wine growers. Earlier in July, they hosted vertical tastings of
their wines, reaching as far back as a 2003 Pinot Noir and a 2003
Cabernet-Merlot.
They have not chosen to stay small even if there is great
artisanal style in the winemaking. Orofino
now is making about 4,500 cases a year.
Terravista Vineyards is
a 1,700-case boutique making just white wine. There is a delicious irony in
that. The owners are Paul and Senka Tennant, one of the couples that founded
the Black Hills winery where the star was a
red wine called Nota Bene. When the Tennants established a new winery in 2008
on the Naramata Bench, Senka (left) decided she did not want to go on making red wine.
They really differentiated Terravista by planting Albariño
and Verdejo, two Spanish whites new to Okanagan vineyards. The blend from these
is called Fandango. A blend of Rhone
varieties, made with purchased grapes, is called Figaro.
The winery’s tasting room high on the Naramata Bench offers
one of the best views over the entire region.
Terravista Fandango
2013 ($24.90). The wine is 70% Albariño and 30% Verdejo. Crisp and fresh,
the wine has aromas and flavours of melons and green apples. This is a wine
worth aging for a year or two. The 2012 Fandango has developed hints of
hazelnut to enhance the complexity. 90.
Terravista Figaro
2012 ($23.90). This is a blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Marsanne.
Glorious tropical fruit aromas charge from the glass. The wine is full on the
palate, with flavours of apricot and peach. 90.
Terravista Viognier
2013 ($17.90). This is new to the portfolio, probably because the winery
ended up with more Viognier than it needed for blending. The wine is crisp and
fresh, with aromas and flavours of citrus and peach. 89.
I sometimes wonder whether Bill is best described as salt of
the earth, or just plain salty. However, the wines are as forthright as the
winemaker.
Robert Van Westen (left), who runs Van Westen Vineyards
near Naramata, comes by his salt of the earth personality naturally. His family
has been growing fruit, mostly cherries, on the Naramata Bench since his
parents immigrated from Holland
in 1951.
The winery has taken over a former fruit packing house.
Robert runs the tasting room, when it is open, with a warm informality. He also
delivers his wine personally to many of his customers. When he can’t do it, he
has a sister in Vancouver who will also deliver.
Van Westen Viognier
2012 ($N/A). This is voluptuous in texture, with aromas and flavours of
citrus and apricot, with subtle spice on the finish. 90.
Van Westen Vino
Grigio 2012 ($19.90 for 530 cases). This is a refreshing, crisp Pinot Gris
with aromas of citrus and flavours of citrus, pear and apple. 90.
Van Westen Vivacious
2013 ($19.90). This is a crisp Pinot Blanc, with aromas and flavours of
apples, with a hint of citrus. 90.
Van Westen/DiBello
Pinot Noir 2012 ($34.90 for 125 cases). The VD on the label reflects that
this is a joint venture wine made by Rob and by Tom DiBello. It begins with
aromas of toasty red fruit, leading to flavours of cherry. The firm texture
suggests this is a Pinot Noir that should be aged a few more years. 89.
Van Westen Vivre La Vie 2010 ($29.90). This is a Merlot
with a concentrated texture. It has aromas and flavours of blueberry, mulberry
and blackberry with a peppery note on the finish. 90.
Van Westen Voluptuous
2010 ($29.90 for 218 cases). This is 66% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc. The texture has grip, as it should
have in a wine designed to develop in bottle for at least six more years. At
this tasting, Rob also allowed guests to sample three previous vintages,
including a 2006 which is drinking very well. The 2010 has aromas of cassis and
sage, with a medley of flavour including black currant, black cherry, herbs and
chocolate. 91
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