CheckMate's world-class 2022 Chardonnays

Photo: Winemaker Philip McGahan

The highest scoring Chardonnays in the Okanagan have been produced consistently by CheckMate Artisanal Winery. They are also the most expensive, the logical consequence of setting such a high bar for quality. The winery was established after Mission Hill owner Anthony von Mandl in 2012 bought adjacent properties on the Golden Mile – the closed Combret winery and the vineyard that grew the Chardonnay for Mission Hills’s award-winning 1994 Chardonnay. That was the wine that Mission Hill promoted as “best in the world” after it won a medal in a major London competition. The vineyard was growing the so-called Dekleva clone Chardonnay (named for the original vineyardist). Cuttings of that clone were planted in several other South Okanagan vineyards as they were established by Von Mandl and his team, as well as by other growers.

With this and other excellent clones of Chardonnay in vineyards in the South Okanagan, Anthony set about creating CheckMate Winery. The seven CheckMate Chardonnay wines could be promoted as best in the world without exaggeration. I have awarded 100 points to one of them four times. CheckMate is just releasing four of its Chardonnays from the outstanding 2022 vintage. As it happens, this was the final vintage touched by winemaker Philip McGahan, the original CheckMate vintner. An Australian lawyer turned winemaker, he was recruited in 2013 from a leading Sonoma winery.

He had to return to Australia for personal reasons in 2020 but he remained very much involved with CheckMate for several more vintages. “I was involved with CheckMate through until early-to-mid 2023,” Philip wrote in a recent email. “I did assist with the picking calls, fermentation management and maturation of the wines, working with Kaylee Barrs, CheckMate assistant winemaker, who was on site at CheckMate and did an excellent job making the wines.”

In mid-2023, Philip handed the chief winemaking position to Penticton-born Spencer Kelly who had been recruited from a prestigious Napa Valley winery. So far, trhe 2023 wines he made have not been released. Because the 2024 vintage was wiped out by the January 2024 freeze, CheckMate could not make a 2024 vintage. Spencer has returned to Napa.

Philip now makes wines for an Australian producer near Adelaide. CheckMate also produces excellent Merlots. However, the current release involves the 2022 Chardonnays, wines that mark the pinnacle of Philip’s decade in the Okanagan. Here are my notes.

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Capture Chardonnay 2022 ($100 for 21 barrels). The fruit for this wine, Dijon Clone 76 and 8o9, was grown in the Border Vista Vineyard, which is right against the U.S. border at Osoyoos. The wine was fermented with natural yeast and was aged 14 months in French oak barrels (47% new). The wine begins with intense aromas of orange peel and stone fruits. The palate also displays flavours of nectarine and peach. The finish is very long. 97.

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Fool's Mate Chardonnay 2022 ($95 for 47 barrels, three foudre). Fruit was sourced from four different vineyards in the South Okanagan, deliberately imbuing the wine with complex characters. It was aged two-thirds in French oak barriques (50% new) and one-third in oak foudres. There is the slightest hint of oak in the aroma mingled with citrus. There are flavours of lemon and stone fruits. The finish is long, showing what the winery calls “crunchy” fruit on an age-worthy texture. 95.

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Little Pawn Chardonnay 2022 ($110 for 30 barrels, one concrete egg). The fruit is from the legendary Jagged Rock Vineyard on the Black Sage bench. There are two clones here: Dekleva and Dijon 76. The wine was aged 14 months 90% in French oak (56% new) and 10% in a concrete egg. One of Checkmate’s most elegant Chardonnays, the wine begins with aromas of tangerine and spice leading to flavours where the tangerine mingles on a rich palate with notes of nectarine. 96.

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Queen Taken Chardonnay 2022 ($125). The fruit is from 47-year-old vines on the adjoining Dekleva and Combret vineyards on the Golden Mile Bench. The wine was aged 14 months in 85% French oak barrels (55% new), 9% concrete and 6% ceramic. The wine begins with aromas of guava and Asian pear, leading to flavours of stone fruits and a finish that refuses to quit. 96.