Clos du Soleil dips into its red inventory

Photo: Clos du Soleil's Michael Clark

In a wine release last fall, Clos du Soleil winemaker Michael Clark updated us on the damage his vineyards had suffered from the recent devastating freezes in the Similkameen Valley. But he also added the assurance that the winery, one of the Similkameen’s top producers, had a good inventory to carry the winery over until vines have recovered. (This winter has been a more normal one.) That has been illustrated by the current releases of three red wines from the 2021 and 2022 vintages. The volumes should give some comfort to Clos du Soleil fans. First, here is a recap of what Michael wrote last fall:

“The two freezes (December 2022, and January 2024) were both particularly hard on vineyards in the Similkameen, in part because our region doesn't have the moderating influence of the large bodies of water that are in the Okanagan. The two freezes have been a blow to us, and to all of our grower and winemaking neighbours in the valley as well, and we have effectively lost two entire crops as a result of this. We have had some vines die, but the good news is that a lot of the vines have survived (more than we initially expected) and we are busy allowing them to recover so that they will be healthy and productive for many years to come.

“We believe strongly in the future of our valley, and its special contribution to the world of wine, and that hasn't changed at all. That being said, we are certainly learning from the events of the last two years, and modifying our viticultural practices to make us as resilient as possible in an environment of extreme weather and climate change. There are a whole range of actions we are taking, and, combined, we think they will ensure a strong future for Clos du Soleil. “Just a few examples include modifying our varietal mix at the margin (we will continue to be specialists in Bordeaux varieties, but we will be reducing our exposure to the most cold-sensitive varieties, and leaning more heavily into cold-hardy varieties), exploring opportunities to use own-rooted (non-grafted) vines which will allow for quicker recoveries after freeze events, and looking at various methods for providing added insulation to our vines during the winter, to better protect them from sudden freezes.”

Here are notes on the three current releases.

Clos du Soleil Syrah 2022 Winemaker’s Series ($39.90 for 1,045 cases). In the classic Rhône tradition, Viognier (two per cent) grapes were co-fermented with the Syrah. Fermentation lasted three weeks. The wine was aged in French oak barrels (25% second use, 75% neutral). The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits and spice. The palate delivers flavours of cherry, blueberry and plum with a hint of pepper on the finish. 91.

Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2022 ($29.90 for 2,236 cases). This is a blend of 44% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. The berries were fermented in concrete and aged 15 months in French oak barrels (13% new). The best barrels were selected for this blend, a soft and fruit-forward wine that is immensely quaffable. It begins with aromas of raspberry and blackberry. The palate delivers flavours of blueberry, blackberry and cherry. Long ripe tannins give the wine a long finish. 90.

Clos du Soleil Signature 2021 ($55.90 for 637 cases). This is the winery’s flagship red wine. It is a blend of 34% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 7% Petit Verdot. The grapes were fermented in concrete with wild yeast. The wine was then aged 16 months in French oak barrels. The final blend was a selection of the best barrels. The wine begins with aromas of cassis, dark cherry and blackberry. The wine is full-bodied with flavours of black currant, and dark cherry with hints of spice on the finish. This is a wine with a sophisticated character (the winery says hedonistic!). It is drinking well now but has the structure to age through the rest of this decade. 93.