Moon Curser's intriguing portfolio will take a hit from last winter

Photo: Moon Curser's Chris Tolley

Moon Curser Vineyards takes pride in growing grape varietals not common elsewhere in British Columbia. “We believe that the main reason they thrive in our Osoyoos vineyards is their location in what is the southernmost, hottest and sunniest place in all of the Okanagan,” the winery has written. As a consequence, Moon Curser’s wine portfolio is one of the most interesting and exciting in British Columbia. It includes Italian varietals Arneis and Dolcetto; Rhone varietals Roussanne, Marsanne and Syrah; a Portuguese grape, Touriga Nacional; a Spanish red, Tempranillo; and two reds grown primarily in South America, Tannat and Carménère. The winery grows neither Chardonnay nor Pinot Gris. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in its vineyards usually are components in blends.

I have been tasting Moon Curser’s wines for almost 20 years and they have always been very interesting. There is no doubt in my mind that proprietor Chris Tolley and his winemaking team could produce gold medal Chardonnay, as an example, if they wanted to. It is just that Chris and Beata, his wife, decided from the beginning to make wines that would set them apart. For the most part, it has been a very successful strategy.

Unfortunately, it bit them in the hard winter of 2022-23 when Osoyoos experienced temperatures as low as -30◦C, a cold that is often fatal for vinifera grape varieties. “I don’t remember it ever being that cold,” Chris says. “None of the vines died,” Chris told me. But there was extensive bud damage. “Tannat was usually sensitive. Basically, there is no crop on those vines this year.” There is half a crop this year on the Tempranillo and a little more than that on the Arneis. He also expects half a normal crop from Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Touriga Nacional and Merlot; and a third of the normal crop from Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon came through the winter reasonably well, however.

His experience is hardly unique in the Okanagan. Syrah in particular suffered widespread bud damage and vine death. A number of Syrah blocks have been, or will be, replanted with varietals judged to be more hardy. Chris, on the other hand, is counting on his vines, which are all mature, recovering to normal production next year and the year after. Fans of Moon Curser will have to make do with less wine from the 2023 vintage, and perhaps a few temporary holes in the portfolio. One of the missing wines from 2023 might be Dead of Night, the iconic blend of Tannat and Syrah. My suggestion is to stock up on Moon Curser’s 2021 and 2022 wines which are currently available.

Here are my notes.

Moon Curser Arneis 2022 ($29.99 for 533 cases). Arneis is a rare white varietal from Piedmont in northern Italy. Moon Curser is believed to be the only winery in Canada producing Arneis. The wine was fermented cool in stainless steel. Dry and medium-bodied, it begins with aromas of herbs mingled with citrus and pear. The herbal notes carry over to the palate where there are flavours of green melon and kiwi. 92.

Moon Curser Viognier 2022 ($25.99 for 771 cases). This wine was fermented cool in stainless steel; also aged in stainless. It is a luscious wine, beginning with exotic aromas of tropical fruits mingled with apricot. Layers of flavour include guava and stone fruits lifted by fresh acidity. 93.

Moon Curser Roussanne Marsanne 2022 ($26.99 for 330 cases). This is 64% Roussanne and 36% Marsanne. A portion of the wine was fermented cool in stainless steel; a portion was fermented warm in barrel. The wine was aged four months in both French oak (30% new) and stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of apricot, nectarine and cantaloupe. The palate is packed with ripe flavours of stone fruits. The wine is quite generous on the finish. 92.

Moon Curser Heist Rosé 2022 ($26.99 for 526 cases). This is 95% Syrah, 5% Malbec). A portion of this wine was aged four months in neutral oak barrels. That seems to have given a somewhat muscular texture to the wine, which is bronze in hue. There are flavours and aromas of strawberry and watermelon. 88.

Moon Curser Eclipse 2021 ($34.99 for 164 cases). This is a traditional method sparking wine made with 60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne. This wine, fermented initially cool in stainless steel, spent 12 months en tirage before being bottled. There is a touch of brioche in the aroma, along with nectarine. On the palate, there are flavours of citrus and quince. The bubbles are active and the finish is crisp. 90.

Moon Curser Dolcetto 2022 ($29.99 for 839 cases). This is another Piedmont varietal and Moon Curser is just one of two wineries growing it. The name translates as “little sweet one.” The winery maintains the traditional Piedmont style, which is fresh and quite fruity, by fermenting and aging this entirely in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of pomegranate, cherry and red plum, leading to intensely fruity flavours that echo the aromas. The tannins are soft. 89.

Moon Curser Border Vines 2021 ($32.99 for 1,992 cases). This is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 14% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, 2% Carménère. It was aged in French oak (25% new). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and blackberry, leading to rich flavours of plum mingled with spice and chocolate. 92.

Moon Curser Malbec 2021 ($37.99 for 510 cases). This wine was fermented in stainless steel but aged in French oak barrels (24% new). The wine begins with perfumed floral aromas mingled with blueberry. The palate is packed with red fruits – raspberry, cherry and red plum with a long, spicy finish. 92.

Moon Curser Tempranillo 2021 ($37.99 for 391 cases). This is a Spanish red varietal which Moon Curser planted in 2005. In this vintage, the winery did whole berry fermentation at warm temperatures in stainless steel. The wine was aged in American and French oak (31% new). The wine begins with aromas of cherry and spice. The palate delivers flavours of blackberry, cherry and spice with long, ripe tannins. 92.

Moon Curser Syrah 2021 ($32.99 for 1,707 cases). The winery did whole-berry fermentation at warm temperatures and then aged the wine in barrel (27% new Hungarian and French oak). The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry and plum mingled with pepper. The flavours are meaty, with plum, fig and pepper. 92.

Moon Curser Contraband Syrah 2021 ($42.99 for 235 cases). The winery did whole-berry fermentation at warm temperatures and then aged the wine in barrel (35% new Hungarian and French oak). This is a big, ripe wine with voluptuous fruit on the palate balancing the 14.7% alcohol. The wine begins with aromas of cherry, plum, black currant and an array of spices. The palate delivers a huge mouthful of dark fruits mingled with black olive, chocolate and pepper. 94.

Moon Curser Touriga Nacional 2021 ($45.99 for 297 cases). This wine was fermented warm in stainless steel but aged in French oak barrels (33% new) before being bottled in March, 2023. The wine positively struts. It is dark in colour with aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum, fig, black olives and dark chocolate. 93.

Moon Curser Carménère 2021 ($45.99 for 254 cases). Moon Curser has been growing this varietal since 2005 and is one of just a few Okanagan vineyards with the grape. The fruit was fermented warm in stainless steel and aged in French oak (30% new). The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits including plum, cherry and fig mingled with pepper and cloves. The palate is bold with ripe flavours of plum, fig and blueberry jam. 93.

Moon Curser Petit Verdot 2021($37.99 for 264 cases). The winery believes this singular red varietal, usually used just in blends, deserves to be released on its own. It is a bold wine if ever there is one. It was fermented warm in stainless steel and aged in French oak (27% new). The wine begins with aromas that mingle chocolate and eucalyptus with the varietal’s characteristic note of slate. The palate is rich, with flavours of fig, dark chocolate, slate and even a hint of cloves. 93.

Moon Curser Dead of Night 2021 ($45.99 for 505 cases). This is 52% Tannat and 48% Syrah. The wine was partially co-fermented in stainless steel but aged in oak (29% new French and Hungarian oak). This is a generous wine, with aromas of spice, dark fruits and vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of dark cherry, plum and chocolate, with long, ripe tannins. 93.