Culmina celebrates its 10th anniversary

Photo: Culmina winemaker Jean-Marc Enixon

This month, Culmina Family Estate Winery marks its 10th anniversary with a harvest expected to be high in quality but, like every Okanagan winery, low in quantity. “The Okanagan was hit with unseasonably cold weather in December, 2022, and Culmina was no exception, with a sustained low of -28◦C on our high elevation Margaret’s Bench [vineyard],” the winery explains. “Our viticulture team worked tirelessly to mitigate frost damage potential and we are pleased to say that the worst seems to have been avoided, with the only varietal showing significant loss being our Malbec.”

Jean-Marc Enixon, Culmina’s French-born and trained winemaker, told me during a June visit at the winery: “Maybe some grape varieties don’t have a place in the Okanagan valley, because it will be too cold.” But he counselled patience. Since most of Culmina’s vines had survived, if with less fruit than in 2022, he was not ready to make hurried decisions about replanting. “Some people are going to take out their grapes and replant right away,” he said. “I advise waiting one year. It is for 40 years we are going to grow a vineyard, not for the next 10 years. Do it well. Do it perfectly.”

Fortunately, the 2022 vintage produced an abundant crop of quality grapes. “The warmest October on record … allowed for a prolonged ripening period,” the winery says. “Wines from the 2022 vintage are marked by vibrant acidity and classic style.” Culmina’s current releases are primarily 2022 white wines and reds from the superb 2020 vintage. Given the low production expected this fall, now is the time to stock up on your favourite Culmina wines.

Here are notes on the wines.

Culmina Decora 2021 ($23). This is the winery’s Riesling grown organically in the high-elevation Margaret’s Bench vineyard. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of citrus and quince with a slight hint of petrol. On the palate, the bracing acidity is balanced with tiny amount of residual sugar, just enough to accent the juicy citrus flavours. 92.

Culmina Unicus 2022 ($30). This is the winery’s Grüner Veltliner. Fermentation was complex: 38% in a concrete egg, 28% in a concrete amphora, 23% in stainless steel and 10% with wild yeast in a neutral French oak barrel. The wine seduces with aromas of pink grapefruit, lychee and melon. The palate delivers a medley of tropical fruits including mango and papaya, with a hint of white pepper on the finish. 93.

Culmina Dilemma 2020 ($38). This is Chardonnay fermented in French oak (40% new); and 40% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation. The wine begins with aromas of butter and orange peel. The fleshy palate delivers flavours of marmalade and custard. 92.

Culmina Viognier 2022 ($35). This wine was fermented with wild yeast in two-year-old French oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of nectarine and apricot leading to flavours of apricot and honeycomb. The texture is rich and the finish is persistent. 92.

Culmina Saignée 2022 ($26). The blend is 44% Malbec, 29% Cabernet Franc and 27% Merlot. The colour is fashionably pale. There are delicate strawberry aromas leading to a satisfying palate of strawberry and apple. 90.

Culmina Perle de Rosé No. 20 ($35). This sparkling wine, Culmina’s first, is 91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. It was fermented initially in stainless steel and then spent 80 days in bottle en tirage. The wine presents with a delicate hue and fine bubbles. The fruity aroma also has a hint of brioche while the palate delivers raspberry flavours. 90.

Culmina Malbec 2020 ($42). This wine was aged 16 months in French oak (30% new). It begins with aromas of cherries mingled with notes of sage and herbs. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry and blackberry. The finish is persistent. 92.

Culmina Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($45). This wine was aged 16 months in French oak (40% new). Concentrated in texture, the wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry. On the palate, the wine delivers black currant, blueberry and dark cherry. Long, ripe tannins give the wine a long finish. The wine has good aging potential. 93.

Culmina Hypothesis 2018 ($50). This is the winery’s flagship red, a blend of 32% Cabernet Franc, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 6.5% Petit Verdot and 5.5% Malbec. The wine was aged 16 months in French oak barrels (35% new, 20% one-year old and 45% neutral. The wine begins with aromas of cassis, dark cherries and cedar. The rich palate delivers complex flavours: dark cherry mingles with licorice and spice. The finish is long. 95.