Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Saturday, September 23, 2023
Clos du Soleil wines will be hard to find next year
Photo: Clos do Soleil's Michael Clark
In Clos du Soleil Winery recent newsletter, the message from winemaker Michael Clark was another depressing reflection on the vineyard damage last winter.
“You may have heard via the grapevine about the damage the BC wine industry sustained courtesy of the extreme cold temperatures last December,” he wrote. “Like most locations throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, our vineyards experienced temperatures of -27°C for extended periods. You don't have to be a farmer or vineyard manager to know that this is very dangerous for grapevines.”
He continued: “Unfortunately, the Similkameen Valley was particularly hard hit, and as a result the Clos du Soleil vineyards will be producing extremely little fruit in 2023 due to the damage our vines sustained from the cold. Farming, and working with Mother Nature, is always a risky endeavour. We know this, and will not be deterred: indeed, our vineyard team is already working hard to make sure our vineyards recover quickly, and that we will be back to producing wonderful wines for you by 2024.”
“Long story short, 2023 will be a very small production year for most wineries in BC, and you may find many of your favourite wines at many of your favourite wineries sold out,” Michael concluded. “Clos du Soleil will be no different. The very best way to keep your cellar stocked in the coming year? JOIN OUR WINE CLUB! Our team has already allocated wines for Spring 2024, Fall 2024 and Spring 2025 club shipments, so being a member is absolutely the best way to ensure that you can get access to wines during a period when wine will be in short supply.”
The quality of the winery’s current releases makes the case on its own for joining the wine club whether or not the wines will be in short supply. Here are notes:
Clos du Soleil CĂ©lestiale 2021 ($29.90 for 1,573 cases). This is a blend of 55% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The grapes were fermented on concrete and aged 15% in French oak barrels (12% new). The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and spice, leading to flavours of cherry, black currant, raspberry and spice. 91.
Clos du Soleil Syrah 2021 ($39.90 for 534 cases). The grapes, including three per cent Viognier, were fermented in concrete, with ferment lasting three weeks. The wine was aged 16 months in French oak barrels (15% new). The wine begins with aromas of plum and raspberry with a hint of black pepper. Full-bodied, the wine delivers flavours of fig and dark fruits. There is an appealing hint of cloves on the long finish. 92.
Clos du Soleil Estate Red 2019 ($64.90 for 193 cases). This is a blend of 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 19% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Franc and 11% Petit Verdot. Each variety was vinified separately and then matured in French oak barrels for 18 months. This is an elegant wine, beginning with aromas of cassis, blackberry and cedar. The fine silky tannins give the wine great length. There are flavours of dark cherry and black currant, leading to a long finish with a hint of spice. 94.
Clos du Soleil Saturn 2022 ($39.90 for 375 ml, 580 cases). This is the winery’s late harvest Sauvignon Blanc. The residual sugar of 85.5 grams a litre is deftly balanced with 9.4 grams of acid. Since the grapes were picked November 18th and 19th, they would have had a good touch of frost. This wine recalls some of the finest Sauternes I have tasted over the years. It begins with aromas that mingle botrytis with marmalade. On the palate, there are flavours of lime and orange. The brisk acidity brings a freshness to the palate, prevents the wine from being cloying and supports a long, long finish. The perfect pairing: soft blue cheese. 95.
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