Fort Berens increases production in vintage 2022

Photo: Fort Berens proprietors Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin

When they moved from Holland in 2008, Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin took a big chance when they established Fort Berens Estate Winery at Lillooet rather than in established winegrowing regions of British Columbia. It is clearly working out, judging by the consistent run of awards that the winery racks up. At the recent British Columbia Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards, the Fort Berens 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve was one of 13 wines to win a platinum medal, the top award in that competition. “We are thrilled [with] this significant award as Cabernet Franc is one of our signature varietals,” Rolf writes. “This reserve wine is 100% estate grown from our mature Dry Creek Vineyard, and it beautifully showcases our unique Lillooet terroir.”

The 2020 vintage in Lillooet (as elsewhere in British Columbia) was of very good quality but limited in quantity. For some reason, the vines produced small bunches with smaller berries. The result was wines with more intense flavours – but with yields 20% to 40% lower than expected. Wines from the 2020 vintage are already in short supply. The winery’s current releases also include six wines from the 2022 vintage. That was a more bounteous vintage; and Fort Berens was also able to increase its production because the winery’s second estate vineyard came into production. “With our Red Rock Vineyard coming into production, we were able to harvest the highest crop ever from our estate vineyards,” Rolf writes. “Our 2022 vintage whites are elegant with beautiful, fresh acidity, and with lovely aromatics.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Fort Berens Pinot Gris 2022 ($23.49 for 1,534 cases). The grapes, after being crushed, were left on the skins for four hours. The wine was fermented at 11◦ C and then aged four months on the lees. The result is a wine with great aromatics and fruitiness. There are aromas of citrus and flavours of pear, quince and stone fruit. 91.

Fort Berens Grüner Veltliner 2022 Small Lot ($25.99 for 276 cases). Thirty per cent of the juice was fermented in neutral oak barrels and the rest was fermented cold in stainless steel, preserving the aromatics. The wine begins with aromas of citrus leading to subtle herbals notes mingled with citrus flavours. The finish is crisp, with a suggestion of white pepper. 90.

Fort Berens Riesling 2022 ($22.99 for 1,817 cases). The fruit for this wine is 73% from estate vineyards and 27% from Naramata Bench vineyards. The grapes were given 12 hours of skin contact after crushing and then the wine was fermented slowly at cool temperatures. Fermentation was stopped with some residual sugar remaining, balancing the bright acidity. The wine begins with aromas of grapefruit and apple, echoed on the palate. The balance is perfect: the wine has a fleshy texture but a lingering, almost dry, finish. 91.

Fort Berens Dry Riesling 2022 Small Lot ($25.99 for 368 cases). A small portion of the fruit was fermented in neutral oak barrels; the major portion, after 12 hours of skin contact, was fermented cool in stainless steel. The wine spent four months on the lees to add texture. The wine begins with aromas of lemon. On the palate, lemon and lime mingle with minerality. This is a tightly wound wine that should be cellared a few years so it can display all the complexity. 92.

Fort Berens Chardonnay 2022 ($24.99 for 1,132 cases). The majority of fruit for this wine is from Lillooet vineyards, with 45% from a Summerland vineyard. About 30% of the wine fermented with natural yeast in neutral oak barrels and aged four months in barrel. Some 70% was fermented cold in stainless steel. The result is a crisp, fruit forward Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of apple, melon and stone fruit. 91.

Fort Berens Rosé 2022 ($22.99 for 1,600 cases). The blend is 70% Pinot Noir, 16% Merlot and 14% Cabernets. The grapes were destemmed and allowed up to 12 hours of skin contact. Once the desired colour was achieved, the grapes were pressed and the juice underwent a long, cold ferment. The wine presents with a delicate pink hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry, raspberry and watermelon. The texture is juicy but the finish is dry. 91.

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve 2020 ($44.99 for 212 cases). This wine was made from estate-grown fruit and was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (50% new). This is an intense wine, beginning with aromas of blackberries and spice. It is rich on the palate, with flavours of dark cherry, blackberry and spice. Decanting helped unlock the complexity and length of this wine. 93.

Fort Berens Meritage Reserve 2020 ($41.99 for 211 cases). This is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, with a regime of cold soaking, pump-overs and extended maceration to extract colour and flavour. The wine begins with bold aromas of cherry and plum, leading to flavours plum, black currant, dark chocolate and black licorice. 93.

Fort Berens Red Gold 2020 ($54.99 for 66 cases). This wine was a selection of the best three barrels in the cellar. The blend is 67% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot. The components were aged separately in new French oak barrels. It is a big, bold wine, packed with flavour and structured to age. It begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and blackberry. The palate delivers dark fruits along with notes of blueberry and chocolate. 94.