Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Tuesday, March 14, 2023
Tightrope champions Naramata Bench
Photo: Tightrope's Lyndsay and Graham O'Rourke
While most British Columbia Syrahs now are grown in the South Okanagan or the Similkameen, the Tightrope Syrah is a reminder that this Rhône varietal was planted first in the Okanagan on the Naramata Bench.
In 1990, Nichol Vineyards, which is near Naramata village, imported from France about 1,350 Syrah vines. These were planted against a west-facing cliff which reflects the heat of the sun across the vineyard.
Then in 2000, Richard Roskell planted primarily Syrah in the seven and a half acre Marichel Vineyard.
Other growers also have since planted the varietal. Terravista Vineyards, which has released Syrah made with Osoyoos fruit, planted Syrah several years ago in a vineyard on the west side of Naramata Road.
The trick with this heat-loving varietal, which ripens fairly late, is to plant it in a warm site, as Alex Nichol did in 1990.
Tightrope’s Syrah is from the Paisley Vineyard on Upper Bench Road. Owned by Dr. David Paisley, it is on a steep west-facing slope which, the winery says, makes it excellent for ripening grapes. Neighboring Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery has its vines on a similar slope.
The other two wines in the currant package from Tightrope are both from grapes grown in the estate’s own Fleet Road Vineyard. Merlot is more widely planted on the Naramata Bench than Syrah and arguably in the Okanagan’s most reliable red.
Regardless of the source of the fruit, winemaker Lyndsay O’Rourke (co-owner with husband Graham) has stamped a consistent style on the wines. All show impeccable concentration of aroma, flavour and texture.
Here are my notes.
Tightrope Riesling 2021 ($24 for 212 cases). The estate-grown grapes were whole-cluster pressed and, after overnight skin contact, were fermented cool for about 30 days. While there is just over 23 grams of residual sugar in the wine, the bright acidity needs it for balance. This will age very well. The wine has aromas of citrus. The layers of flavour on the palate mingle citrus with stone fruit. The finish is persistent. 92.
Tightrope Merlot 2020 ($30 for 253 cases). The estate-grown grapes were destemmed into half-ton fermenters and cold-soaked for five days before fermentation. The grapes were on the skins about three weeks before being pressed into barrel for 12 months aging in French oak (50% new). Dark in colour, this full-bodied Merlot begins with aromas of dark cherry and plum. On the palate, the flavours of blueberry, dark cherry and plum and the ripe tannins lead to a lingering finish. 93.
Tightrope Syrah 2019 ($40 for 395 cases). There is six percent Viognier co-fermented with the Syrah. The wine was fermented in small lots in stainless steel and then aged 12 months in French oak barrels (50% new) and in one American oak barrel. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, plum and blackberry. There are layers of flavour on the generous palate, including plum, blueberry, pepper and anise. 93.
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