Hester Creek's Cabernet Sauvignon and friends

Photo: Hester Creek proprietor Curt Garland

It seems to me that more British Columbia wineries have begun releasing Cabernet Sauvignon as a single varietal wine as well as using the fruit as major blending component. Hester Creek Estate Winery is a case in point. The fall releases included a Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. As well, Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 74% of the blend in the 2019 Garland, the premium red blend named for the winery’s owner, Curt Garland. The winery has two blocks of mature Cabernet Sauvignon vines, planted 16 or more years ago. That overall maturity of vineyards in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys may account for the rising number of releases of this varietal wine. Given good farming and a good vintage, mature vines produce the best quality fruit.

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the latest ripening varieties. In the mid-1990s when Okanagan vineyards were being replanted with vinifera grapes, the red Bordeaux varieties of choice were Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Both ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. However, as the growing seasons became warmer and, in some years, longer, the acreage of Cabernet Sauvignon has risen. And more wineries have been releasing Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Both 2019 and especially 2020 were excellent vintages. Cabernet Sauvignon could be left hanging on the vines late into the fall in 2020. Not so much in 2019, except that was quite a warm year and the grapes were ripe when fall frost hit. As well, winemakers like Charlie Baessler of Corcelettes Estate Winery have concluded that a touch of frost actually improves the fruit, reducing the bell pepper notes sometimes found in Cabernet Sauvignon. He produced one of the many excellent 2020 Cabernet Sauvignons.

So did Mark Hopley at Hester Creek. He also has the advantage of working with the only Ganimede fermenters in the valley – Italian technology for long, gentle fermentation of reds. Here are notes on the Hester Creek wines.

Hester Creek Pinot Bianco 2021 Storied Series ($21.99 for 400 cases). The name of this Pinot Blanc wine is a nod to the Italian history of this vineyard, planted originally by Joe Busnardo. The grapes in the wine are a blend of estate fruit and fruit from a Black Sage Road vineyard. Some 87% of the juice was fermented cool in stainless steel. The remainder was fermented in two François Frères oak barrels, contributing more texture. The wine has aromas and flavours of apple and stone fruit, with a crisp finish. 91.

Hester Creek Syrah 2020 Source Collection ($29.99). The Syrah grapes were co-fermented with Viognier (15% of the blend) to lift the aromas. The wine was aged for 14 months in barrels (60% American oak, 40% French), of which 2/3 were neutral. The wine begins with aromas of pepper, cherry, blueberry and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of plum, fig, deli meats, licorice and white pepper. 92.

Hester Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Storied Series ($34.99 for 500 cases). The grapes for this wine were harvested on November 1, 2020, even though there was a freeze in the vineyards on October 23 that year. After fermentation, the wine was aged 16 months in French oak. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry and black currant mingled with nutmeg. The palate echoes the aromas, along with added flavours of blackberry and vanilla. Long, ripe yet firm tannins give the wine elegance. Because this wine is structured to be cellared up to five years, decanting is recommended for current consumption. 92.

Hester Creek Garland 2019 Origin Wines ($59.99). This is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 1% Merlot. The 2019 growing season was warmer than average, which was a good thing for the vintage because a severe frost on October 9 ended the season. This is still a big, ripe wine with 14.8% alcohol, meaning the grapes were fully mature by the time the frost occurred. The fruit for this wine fermented in Hester Creek’s Ganimede tanks, followed by an extended maceration. The wine was aged 24 months in French oak. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry, cassis, mint and cocoa. There are layers of flavour on the rich and savoury palate, including dark fruits and chocolate. Long ripe tannins give the wine great length. 94.