Fitzpatrick recounts "quest for effervescence"

Photo: Gordon Fitzpatrick

The Quest for Effervescence: A Fitz Fable is the title of a slim but entertaining booklet about Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards, written by Gordon Fitzpatrick, the winery’s president. “This is something I wrote in a whimsical way to share our stories and explain our journey in making some of the best bubblies in the land,” Gordon explains. He and his father, Senator Ross Fitzpatrick, formerly operated CedarCreek Estate Winery in East Kelowna and Greata Ranch Winery at Peachland. After CedarCreek was sold in 2014 to Anthony von Mandl, the Fitzpatricks repositioned Greata Ranch as Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards. The speciality in sparkling wine. The Greata Ranch vineyards were planted in 1996 and 1997 predominantly with varieties suited to sparkling wine.

As well, it is a relatively cool vineyard. It is located on the west side of Okanagan Lake. Mount Eneas looming to the west puts the vines into shade earlier than vineyards on the east side of the lake. “We affectionately refer to this effect as ‘Shade’s Gift’ and it is key to our quest for effervescence,” Gordon writes. “You can make a sparkling wine from any combination of grapes you choose,” he continues. “However, Champagne is made with varying combinations of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as some Meunier. We have all three of these grapes, and pattern our sparkling after those made in Champagne, although with two feet firmly planted in the Okanagan.”

Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards opened in 2017, but only after what Gordon calls an “inspirational visit” to Champagne, after which “the Fitzpatricks designed and constructed the only purpose-built sparkling wine facility in the Okanagan.” The sparkling wines here are not carbonated or made with Charmat tanks but are made in the time-honoured manner of Champagne, with 24 to 36 months resting on the lees in bottle before being disgorged. “It takes more time and costs more money, but if you want to develop some of the character that makes the sparkling of Champagne so special, it’s what you have to do,” Gordon writes. The booklet, which includes sumptuous photographs of the winery and of its owners, should be available at the winery.

Here are notes on the current releases, which includes the table wines that are companions to the winery’s fine sparklers.

Fitzpatrick The Mischief Pinot Blanc 2021 ($19.50 for 750 cases). This wine has a long, cool ferment in stainless steel and was aged five months in 40% neutral oak with lees stirring. The wine begins with aromas of apple and pear. It is crisp, with flavours of apple and lemon. 91.

Fitzpatrick The Lookout Riesling 2021 ($19.50 for 615 cases). The grapes for this wine are from the estate vineyard at Greata Ranch ass well as from Covert Farms north of Oliver. The fruit was fermented cool in stainless steel for 35 days. The wine begins with aromas of lemon and stone fruit mingled with notes of wet stone. The flavours are intense: lemon, lime, nectarine. The well-balanced residual sugar contributes to a note of honey on the lingering finish. 91.

Fitzpatrick Interloper Gewürztraminer 2021 ($19.50 for 370 cases). The wine is made entirely with estate-grown fruit, which was fermented 21 days in stainless steel. Some 40% of the grapes were soaked on the skins for 12 hours to extract more flavour. Aromas of lychee lead to a palate where lychee flavours mingle with hints of ginger and cantaloupe. The finish is dry. 91.

Fitzpatrick Fitz Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2018 ($44.50 for 554 cases). This wine is made with estate-grown Chardonnay fermented in neutral French oak and aged 36 months on the lees in bottle. This is an elegant wine, beginning with a touch of brioche and lemon on the nose. There are flavours of green apple with a backbone of minerality. The active mousse gives a creamy texture on the palate. The finish is crisp and dry. 93.

Fitzpatrick Fitz Brut 2018 ($33.50). This is 73% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier, all estate-grown. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel. The wine aged about 24 months on the lees in bottle. The wine begins with fruity aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of lemon and apple. 91.

Fitzpatrick Sudden Inversion Meritage 2019 ($29.50 for 1,130 cases). Made with South Okanagan fruit, this wine is 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented separately before blending. It was aged 14 months in French oak (10% new). The wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark cherry, echoed on the palate. There are also notes of blueberry on the palate, which is firm enough to suggest the wine will cellar a few more years. 92.