Nota Bene 2020 may be the best one yet

Photo: Ross Wise MW

Ross Wise MW has brought fresh ideas to making the wines at Black Hills Estate Winery since joining the winery three years ago. The recently-released Nota Bene 2020 is a case in point. This is arguably the most delicious Nota Bene ever made since this iconic red debuted in the 1999 vintage. For the first time in its history, the leading red varietal in the blend is Cabernet Franc. Over the previous 20 vintages, Nota Bene has been anchored by Cabernet Sauvignon, with a few exceptions when Merlot took the lead. Cabernet Sauvignon also anchored the original plantings at the Black Hills vineyard in 1996. When the winery released one fine Nota Bene after another, there likely did not seem a reason for changing the recipe. My guess is that the initially modest Cabernet Franc block has been increased in recent years as more and more producers awakened to the potential of the varietal.

In 2017 Andrew Peller Ltd., Canada’s largest publicly traded wine company, acquired Black Hills and its portfolio of exceptional and interesting wines. Peller recruited New Zealand–born Ross Wise as the winemaker. He came to Canada to join Flat Rock Cellars in Ontario in 2009. He left there in 2012 and, for the next four years, consulted with a number of Ontario wineries. He came to the Okanagan in 2016 to join Phantom Creek for three vintages before moving to Black Hills early in 2019. Ross has his winemaking degree from Charles Sturt University in Australia and completed his Master of Wine studies in 2020. Nota Bene 2020 is, one might say, a masterly wine. Ross has a sure hand in the cellar, as the winery’s other current releases show.

Here are notes.

Black Hills Rosé 2021 ($29.99). The beautifully-packaged rosé is a blend of 70% Syrah, 16% Grenache and 14% Mourvedre. Pale salmon in hue, it begins with aromas of raspberry. On the palate, delicate raspberry and strawberry flavours mingle with notes of herbs and a suggestion of pepper. The wine is dry, with a backbone of minerals. 90.

Black Hills Alibi 2020 ($27.79). This white blend has been the partner to Nota Bene almost from the start. The current vintage is 78% Sauvignon Blanc, 22% Sémillon. Aromas and flavours of lime and herbs mingle with guava on the palate. 90.

Black Hills Chardonnay 2019 ($29.90). Barrel-fermented in French oak, the wine has aromas and flavours of butter, marmalade, apple and stone fruit. Bright acidity keeps the wine fresh and lively. The finish lingers. 91.

Black Hills Carménère 2018 ($68.90). This varietal, planted first in the Okanagan by Black Hills, has developed a remarkable cult following of its own – and is available just to wine club members. The wine begins with aromas of pepper. On the palate, the pepper mingles with leather and fig. The wine is rustic, but in an interesting way. It is a long-lived red. 92.

Black Hills Syrah 2018 ($39.90). This is a fine example of South Okanagan Syrah. It begins with aromas of cherry, plum, boysenberry and pepper. It delivers rich dark fruit flavours to the generously textured palate. 93.

Black Hills Tempranillo 2018 ($59.90). Black Hills is also one of the wineries to give this Spanish red variety a home in the South Okanagan. This is a lean, bright and fresh red with aromas and flavours of huckleberries, cherry and spice. 92.

Black Hills Ipso Facto 2019 ($49.90). This is a fine alternative wine for those who miss out on Nota Bene releases. It is a blend of 53% Syrah and 47% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and cherry mingled with black olive and chocolate. It is full-bodied with flavours of black currant and dark fruits. The finish lingers. 93.

Black Hills Nota Bene 2020 ($69.99). The blend is 42% Cabernet Franc, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. This wine is from the best vintage in a decade, when the season delivered balanced and elegant wines. This wine begins with aromas of black currant, black cherry and spice. The flavours are intense, with dark fruits mingled with plum, blueberry, mint and chocolate. Generous in texture, the wine has long, ripe tannins. The finish persists. The 2020 Nota Bene delivers immediate pleasure but has the structure to deliver even more complexity as it is cellared over the next decade. 95.