French Door's second release continues to impress

Photo: French Door's Jason Shull

French Door Estate Winery opened in 2020 after owners Audra and Jason Shull acquired the vineyard and the buildings of Montakarn Estate Winery on Black Sage Road. They renovated the former winery, adding superb winemaking equipment that is needed to make both big red wines and whites packed with flavour.

The French Door name reflects at insight the Shulls once had while visiting wineries in Provence. “Why are we even here?” Jason said to his family. “We have Provence in our back yard.” That led them to think of their winery on Black Sage Road as their door on French wine country. “The lavenders, the lake, the orchards, the vineyards … it is identical,” Jason says. The couple grew up in Osoyoos where they had been high school sweethearts. They had pursued careers away from wine country but always with a desire to get back. Jason, who formerly ran a Vancouver-based firm called Golden Capital Corp., once put in a bid, with some partners, for Hester Creek Estate Winery when it was in a court auction. Now, Jason can look across the Okanagan Valley at Hester Creek. In 2019, he and Audra took over the property of Montakarn Estate Winery (which has relocated to Okanagan Falls). “I like this side of the valley better,” Jason says. “The vineyard has a southern exposure.”

The winemaker is Paris-born Pascal Madevon, who made big red wines for 10 vintages at Osoyoos Larose and for several more vintages at Culmina Family Estate Winery before hanging out his shingle as a consulting winemaker. Jason interviewed 10 winemaking candidates before turning French Door over to Pascal. “I was looking for a client that wanted to make this style of wine again … something very big,” Pascal says. “I found some clients like that and one of them is French Door Estate Winery.” “They have a very good vineyard,” Pascal says of French Door’s seven acres. “They got good equipment. They are precise in the winery. And they are exceptional with the welcome of people in the tasting room. Everything is nice, very clean. They do a very good job.”

On Pascal’s recommendation, Jason installed three 3,000-litre oak fermenters from a premium cooperage in Burgundy. These tanks are critical to making the big red wines. “When Jason and I started the project, he asked me what do we need to do to make a top wine,” Pascal says. “I said the best way to make big reds is to ferment in wooden tanks. It gives you round tannins during fermentation. I think fermentation in wooden tanks is the key part.” The white wines are fermented in French oak barrels but Pascal is careful not to let the oak intrude on the pure flavours of the fruit.

The vineyard grows eight reds - Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Pinot Noir and a small block of Cinsault- and three whites - Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. French Door also purchases grapes from other growers in the valley, tapping the premium growers that Pascal has worked with during his 20 years in the Okanagan.

Here are notes on the current releases.

French Door Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($32). The wine begins with aromas of herbs and lime. The flavours are intense, with lime, gooseberry and herbs mingled with hints of tropical fruits. The refreshing finish lingers. 93.

French Door Chardonnay 2020 ($40). This a big barrel-fermented Chardonnay for those who appreciate oaked Burgundies. It begins with aromas of citrus and apricot. On the palate, there are flavours of mandarin orange, stone fruit, butter and spice, with a long finish. 92.

French Door Lys 2021 ($26). This is a creative blend of 38% Viognier, 38% Riesling, 14% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine begins with aromas of citrus, melon and spice. The mouth-filling texture delivers of melon, apricot and ripe pear mingled with lemon. 91.

French Door Rosé 2021 ($32). This is a blend of 50% Mourvedre and 50% Grenache. The wine is fashionably pale with aromas of watermelon and apple. The wine delivers a lot of flavour, notably watermelon and strawberry. The finish is crisp and dry. 92.

French Door Fleur 2021 ($30). This is a blend of 88% Gamay Noir and 4% Pinot Noir, filled in with saignée of Malbec. The wine is reminiscent of Beaujolais Nouveau, with aromas of cherry and flavours of cherry, red plum and blackberry. The wine is best when lightly chilled. 90.

French Door Héritage 2019 ($52). This is a blend of 30% Merlot, 25% each of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (40% new). This is a bold, intense red wine, beginning with dramatic aromas of cassis, blackberry and black cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry. The finish is very long. 92.

French Door Malbec 2020 ($60 for 140 cases). This is a sturdy wine; a partial bottle was open inadvertently for a week before it was finished. It still was satisfying. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (45% new). It is a savoury wine, beginning with aromas of blueberry, dark cherry and vanilla. On the palate, there are intense flavours of dark fruit. 92.

French Door Merlot 2020 ($78 for 140 cases). This is a bold, deeply-flavoured wine that was aged in French oak (35% new) for 14 months. It has aromas and flavours of black cherry, blueberry, cassis and plum. The wine is very concentrated. Decant it for drinking now or lay it away for several years. 93.