Chaberton Estate Winery: largest and oldest in the Fraser Valley

Photo: Chaberton's Eugene Kwan

Opened in 1991, Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery – as it was then called – was the first winery in the Fraser Valley. What a path it has blazed! The last time I counted, I found that there now are 50 wineries between Delta and Chilliwack. That figure astonished me. It also surprises everyone to whom I mention it. While there is a tiny Fraser Valley Wineries Association, it has a negligible number of wineries. Most Fraser Valley wineries inexplicably prefer to go it alone.

Chaberton Estate Winery, as it is called now, is the largest and, with a restaurant (check the opening hours), is a destination for those who go wine touring in the valley. The winery was founded by Claude and Inge Violet, who moved to the valley from France to plant a 40-acre vineyard in 1982. When they retired in 2005, they sold the winery to Vancouver lawyer Eugene Kwan and Hong Kong businessman Anthony Cheng. They remain the current owners.

Chaberton produces wines from its own vineyard, planted largely with white varietals. The winery also buys from an extensive network of growers in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. One of the red blends even includes Chancellor and Baco Noir, two sturdy hybrids that are almost extinct in the Okanagan. Most of the wines are produced in large enough volume that they can be found without going through the hoops of joining a wine club. Even better, these are generally inexpensive wines.

Here are notes on the wines.

Chaberton White 2020 ($13.10). There are an astonishing 10 varietals in this blend, led by Madeleine Angevine, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. The successful result is a fruit bowl of aromas and flavours: nectarine, apple and quince. The wine has a crisp finish with a lingering note of spice. 90.

Chaberton Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($17.25 for 524 cases). The varietal’s intense aromas and flavours of lime, pineapple and herbs are captured in this zesty and refreshing wine. 91.

Chaberton Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($12.95 for 1,111 cases). This unoaked wine has aromas and flavours of peach and apple. However, there is not much intensity or character. 86.

Chaberton Barrel-Aged Chardonnay 2018 ($21.50 for 569 cases). This wine spent four months in French and American oak. It has aromas and flavours of apples and stone fruits, with a mouth-filling texture. 90.

Chaberton Gewürztraminer 2019 ($17.25). This wine has intense aromas of ginger, grapefruit and mandarin orange, all of which is echoed on the palate. There is a touch of residual sweetness but the balance leads to a finish that is nearly dry. 90.

Chaberton Valley Pink 2020 ($17.25 for 832 cases). This is blend of 70% Zweigelt and 20% Gewürztraminer, filled out with Riesling and Gamay Noir. The wine begins with aromas of spice and cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, cranberry and raspberry. The finish is dry. 89.

Chaberton Valley Cab 2019 ($18.95 for 1,101 cases). This is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 37% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec and 1% Syrah. The wine was aged 12 in neutral French and American oak. It begins with aromas of cherry and blackberry. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry and plum. The Petit Verdot has added both a dark colour and a firm texture. Very good value. 90.

Chaberton Red 2019 ($13.10). It is a safe bet that there is not another wine in British Columbia like this one. The blend is 40% Merlot, 15% Chancellor, 14% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Baco Noir, 6% Pinotage, 5% Gamay Noir, 2% Syrah and 1% Zweigelt. It is an easy-drinking wine, with aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and mocha. 90.

Chaberton Gamay Noir 2020 ($19.95 for 750 cases). This estate-grown red light-bodied, with aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry. 86.

Chaberton Merlot 2017 ($24.95 for 509 cases). Lengthy barrel aging has developed aromas of spice, dark cherry and cassis. On the palate, which is concentrated, there are flavours of dark fruit mingled with chocolate and oak. 90.

Chaberton Meritage 2017 ($25.95 for 519 cases). This wine is 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot. Information on barrel aging is not available but from the age of the wine and its mellow richness that it probably has had two years in barrel. The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits mingled with toasted oak. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant, black cherry, fig, plum and spice. The finish is persistent. 92.

Chaberton Syrah 2017 ($28.95 for 500 cases). This big, bold red was aged 24 months in barrel; 48% of the barrels were new and 85% of all the barrels were French oak (with 15% American oak). The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits including plum and cherry. On the palate, which is dense and concentrated, the flavours of fig and plum finish with spice and vanilla. 91.