Cassini Cellars made powerful reds in 2018

Photo: Adrian Cassini in the winery cellar

The fall release of 2018 vintage red wines from Cassini Cellars at Oliver is impressive, to say the least. I scored every wine above 90 points. Of course, I have a bias. I enjoy big reds and those are the sort of wines made by Adrian Cassini, the winery’s owner, especially in a vintage like 2018.

In his notes on the vintage, Adrian writes: “The 2018 growing season began three weeks later than normal, and cooler than average temperatures resulted in delayed budding and flowering of the vines. With Autumn arriving earlier than expected, grapes were left hanging longer in order to develop the fruit flavours, powerful tannins and a firm acid backbone that will give the wines from this vintage a long life.” He supplemented his viticulture with winemaking techniques designed to enhance the intensity of the wines. “Temperature control for slow fermentation, extended skin contact and pneumatage twice a day give [these wines] rich colour and extraction with great complexity and balance.” Pneumatage is winespeak for various techniques of pumping the fermenting wine over the cap of skins during fermentation to extract colour and flavour.

Adrian’s winemaking extends to bold barrel-aging regimes. His flagship wine, Godfather Red, is aged 24 months in new French oak. Long barrel aging allows the oak flavours to integrate with the wine. While one tastes the oak in Adrian’s reds, the flavours are muted, with chocolate and spice notes rather than harsh wood. Here are my notes on these delicious reds.

Cassini Cellars Quattro 2018 Collector’s Series ($37 for 1,300 cases). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The varietals were aged in new and two-year-old barrels (80% French, 20% American) for 14 months. The blend was assembled two months before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of black currant, blueberry and cherry, with a hint of toasted oak, all of which is echoed on the palate. The tannins are subtle, with a firmness of texture that suggests this wine will age. Decant for early drinking. 91.

Cassini Cellars Nobilus Merlot Collector’s Series 2018 ($40 for 300 cases). This bold red (15.4% alcohol) was aged 24 months in new French oak. It is an age-worthy wine that benefits from decanting. It begins with aromas of cassis, spice and oak. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant and plum mingled with sweet oak. 92.

Cassini Cellars Cabernet Franc 2018 Collector’s Series ($40 for 275 cases). The winery believes that Cabernet Franc “could be a signature red for Canada.” A big, ripe red (15.3% alcohol) makes the case well. The wine was aged 24 months in new barrels (80% French, 20% American). It begins with intense brambleberry aromas (blackberry, raspberry and black currant) leading to flavours of black cherry, blackberry and cocoa. The finish is long and satisfying. 91.

Cassini Cellars Malbec 2018 Limited Edition ($40 for 200 cases). This wine, new to the Cassini portfolio, was aged 14 months in new and two-year-old barrels (70% French, 30% American). It begins with aromas of spice, blackberry and cherry. Rich in texture, the wine delivers flavours of cherry and plum with hints of tobacco and vanilla. 92.

Cassini Cellars Maximus 2018 Limited Edition ($45 for 450 cases). This is a big (15.5% alcohol) blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, 4% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 14 months in new two-year-old barrels (80% French, 20% American). It begins with aromas of cassis, vanilla and cocoa. On the palate, there are flavours of rich, dark fruit mingled with oak. The finish is long. 93.

Cassini Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 The Aristocrat ($45 for 300 cases). This elegant yet powerful wine, selected from the best eight barrels out of 45, begins with aromas of cassis and red berries. Two hours of breathing allowed this tightly structured wine to reveal flavours of black currant, plum, black cherry, black olives and mocha. A classic age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon. 92.

Cassini Cellars Godfather Red 2018 ($80 for 75 cases). This is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, aged 24 months in new French oak barrels. It is a concentrated wine with power and longevity. It begins with aromas of cassis, cherry and chocolate. On the palate, flavours of plum, fig and cherry are integrated with vanilla and oak. 95.