Church & State releases ready to drink wines

Photo: Church & State winemaker Arnaud Thierry

Most wine samples for review are wines of the current vintage or, at most, the previous vintage.

The wines – especially the whites in spring – are often too young to drink. Try enjoying a nine-month-old Riesling! An experienced reviewer will just have to figure out how the wine might show with sufficient time in bottle.

Church & State Winery does reviewers a favour by releasing its wines when they are more mature. I queried this when I found myself with a number of their 2017 whites. There had been a change of ownership a few years ago, and a revolving number of general managers. Perhaps there had been an interruption on the marketing of the wine? But I am assured that is not the case. They are just releasing wines when they are ready to drink.

Most wineries will say they all do that. Some think wines can be released when they are young, if only not to tie up capital. A California winemaker once parodied the old Paul Masson slogan, “No wine before its time,” by adding “When the banker calls, it’s time.”

I have not met the current owner of Church & State. In fact, a former general manager flatly refused to give me his name, so I have no clue as to his banking relationship.

Here is more background on the winery, with an excerpt from my recently published Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.

While Church & State originated on Vancouver Island, it planted roots firmly in the Okanagan when it opened its Coyote Bowl winery in 2010. Crisply modern, gleaming with stainless steel and glass, this Robert Mackenzie–designed winery is set dramatically on a plateau commanding a panorama of vineyards and mountains. The real drama here is in the glass, with bold, ripe wines expressing the terroir of the South Okanagan.

The Brentwood Bay winery opened in 2002 as Victoria Estate and was near failure two years later when it was purchased by Kim Pullen, a former tax lawyer with a knack for turning businesses around. The key to putting Church & State back on its feet was securing good Okanagan grapes through developing or leasing 44.5 hectares (110 acres) south of Oliver. At first, grapes were transported to Vancouver Island for processing, until the winery moved production to a leased South Okanagan packing house, adding the Coyote Bowl facility for premium barrel-aged wines. Still open, the Brentwood Bay vineyard specializes in making sparkling wines.

Church & State’s objective is to produce 10,000 to 12,000 cases a year, 65% of it red wine. The wine portfolio is built largely around the Bordeaux red varieties and the Rhône whites (Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier) that thrive in South Okanagan vineyards. By 2017, the winery’s growth had outrun the initial objectives. Church & State were producing 35,000 cases, a volume that required it to scramble for exports as well as domestic sales.

Finally, Kim and his son, John, decided to scale back. Church & State was sold to Sunocean Wineries and Estate, a Vancouver company operated by a Chinese businessman. The Pullens have opened a much smaller winery called Second Chapter.

      Church & State also has chosen to focus more tightly on producing about 12,000 cases a year from its vineyards. Winemaker Arnaud Thierry, who was born in Normandy and trained in Champagne, had extensive experience in France before moving to the Okanagan in 2017 with his wife, also a winemaker.

Here are notes on the wines.

Church & State Frizzante Muscat 2017 ($20.69 for 929 cases). The wine begins with a delicately fruity aroma. It delivers flavours of peach and citrus on the palate, with a touch of spice on the finish. The active bubbles add to the wine’s easy drinkability. 90.

Church & State Sparkling Pinot Gris 2017 ($25.29 for 916 cases). This is a fresh and lively wine with aromas and flavours of apples, pears and citrus. The mousse is active and the bright acidity adds to the refreshing, dry finish. 91.

Church & State Pinot Gris 2017 ($22.99 for 987 cases). The wine begins with aromas of pears and ripe apples. It is full on the palate, with flavours of stone fruit and a touch of alcoholic warmth on the finish. 88.

Church & State Viognier 2017 ($27.59 for 457 cases). The wine begins with aromas of apricot and mango. It is full on the palate, with flavours of ripe apricot and ripe peach. Again, a touch of warmth on the finish. 89.

Church & State Roussanne 2017 ($34.49 for 354 cases). The wine is light gold in hue. The tropical fruit aromas bound from the glass – mango and guava. The flavours echo the aromas. The texture of this wine is luscious and the finish is persistent. 91.

Church & State Marsanne 2017 ($34.49 for 224 cases). The wine has aromas of almonds and ripe pears. On the palate, there are flavours of almond, vanilla and pear. 90.

Church & State Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($22.99). The wine begins with aromas of lime mingled with herbs. On the palate, the lime and herb flavours are intense and the finish is persistent. The style recalls a fine Sancerre white. 91.

Church & State Coyote Bowl Chardonnay 2017 ($35.64). Lightly gold in hue, this wine has aromas of vanilla, butter and citrus. Rich in texture, it has flavours of marmalade mingled with butter and vanilla. The wine is mature and seems to be drinking at its peak. 91.

Church & State Cabernet Franc 2017 ($36.79 for 1,000 cases). The wine was aged 12 months in oak.  Dark in colour, the wine begins with rich aromas of dark cherries, plums and figs mingled with vanilla. The berry flavours are vibrant on the palate – blackberry, black currant – with a hint of black licorice on the finish. 92.

Church & State Merlot 2017 ($36.79 for 1,000 cases). The wine was aged 12 months in oak. The colour is as deep as the night sky. It begins with aromas of cassis, dark cherry, blueberry and vanilla. It is firm on the palate, delivering flavours of black currant and dark chocolate. There is a note of wet slate on the finish. This wine should be decanted. 91.

Church & State Meritage 2017 ($36.79 for 1,250 cases). This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in oak. Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of cassis, black cherry and blueberry. On the palate, the long, ripe tannins give the wine a generous texture. It has flavours of dark fruit mingled with vanilla, mocha and tobacco. The finish is very long. 92.

Church & State Coyote Bowl Syrah 2016 ($60.94). The wine is almost black in colour. It begins with aromas of fig, plum and vanilla. Bold and generous on the palate, it delivers ripe flavours of blueberry and fig mingled with oak. 90.