CheckMate scores with sit-down tastings

Photo: Winemaker Phil McGahan

Like most wineries, CheckMate Artisanal Winery’s tasting room is open primarily for tastings by appointment, with walk-ins accommodated only if there is space.

This practice has become ubiquitous as wineries seek to control tasting room traffic as a way of safeguarding customers against COVID-19. It seems to be working well. I am not aware that any winery has been the source of a virus outbreak this summer.

CheckMate winemaker Phil McGahan thinks wineries may continue tastings by appointment when the pandemic is behind us. “From a staffing point of view, it helps you plan your day,” he says.

The winery does seated tastings only, charging $35 for six wines (refundable with wine purchases). The sommelier-led tastings last about 45 minutes. CheckMate reports it has more tasting room traffic this year than previously.

“We probably average about 35 people a day,” Phil says. “With sit-down tastings, people are probably buying twice as much as with stand-up tastings.”

The likely explanation: participants in seated tastings spend more time with the wines and are better able to compare the wines.

CheckMate produces just Chardonnay and Merlot. The wines are among the most expensive in the Okanagan – but they are among the very best. I have twice awarded 100 points to consecutive vintages of the winery’s Little Pawn Chardonnay.

CheckMate is one of the jewels in Anthony von Mandl’s Okanagan wineries. (Others include Mission Hill Family Estate, Martin’s Lane Winery, CedarCreek Estate Winery, Road 13 Vineyards and Liquidity Wines.)

CheckMate was created after Anthony in 2012 purchased an exceptional Chardonnay vineyard on the Golden Mile. At the same time, he bought the neighbouring former Domaine Combret winery, a 19-year-old property which had recently closed as a winery. The attractions were the mature Chardonnay blocks (now more than 45 years old) and a winery with a good location. During the last several years, the Combret winery has been completely rebuilt.

Trial lots of CheckMate wine were made, but not released, in 2012. The first CheckMate vintage released to consumers was 2013. Phil chooses the grapes from five or six of the best vineyards Mission Hill has in the south Okanagan and applies disciplined, cutting edge winemaking. Fermentation is almost entirely with wild yeast. The wines are all aged in premium French oak barrels.

A pop-up tasting room was opened several years ago at CheckMate so that wine tourists could taste the exceptional wines they had been reading about. This summer, the pop-up room was discontinued. Tastings now are held in the winery.

Here are notes the three Chardonnays and two Merlots scheduled for release this fall.

CheckMate Capture Chardonnay 2017 ($90). The fruit for this wine is from the Border Vista Vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench. Some 67% was fermented with wild yeast. The wine was aged 16 months in French oak barrels (46% new). This is a wine of delicate beauty, with aromas of peach and citrus. The palate delivers flavours of citrus, mandarin orange and stone fruits. There is a hint of minerality, with a lingering finish. The oak is very subtle, framing the clean and focussed fruit flavours. 95.

CheckMate Queen Taken Chardonnay 2017 ($125). The fruit for this wine is from mature vines in the Dekleva Vineyard beside the winery, considered CheckMate’s Grand Cru site. Again, 67% is fermented with wild yeast. The wine is aged 16 months in French oak (44% new). The wine is notable for its texture: a bony frame supporting long-term aging. It begins with aromas of citrus, notably orange peel. On the palate, there are flavours of stone fruit, with minerality on the back of the palate that expresses itself as wet stone. 93-95.

CheckMate Queen’s Advantage Chardonnay 2017 ($85). The fruit is from the Combret Vineyard on the Golden Mile, also near the winery and also with mature vines. Some 87% was fermented with wild yeast and the wine was fermented 16 months in French oak (46% new). The wine creates an immediate impression of richness, both in the buttery, fruity aromas and on the palate, with flavours of orange and stone fruit. 96.

CheckMate Opening Gambit Merlot 2016 ($85). The grapes are from the Osoyoos East Bench, fermented entirely with wild yeast with extended skin contact. The wine was aged 21 months in new French oak. It begins with aromas of cassis and blackberry. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry mingled with herbal and spice notes. The tannins are polished, with a firmness that will support cellaring. 95.

CheckMate Black Rook Merlot 2016 ($85). The fruit for this wine is from the Black Sage Bench, fermented with wild yeast and given extended skin contact. The wine was aged 21 months in new French oak. Aromas of black cherry and blackberry bound from the glass. The palate is lush and inviting, with flavours of black cherry, chocolate and licorice. The finish is persistent, with notes of sage and spicy oak. 96.