Clos du Soleil builds new winery and tasting room

Photo: Clos du Soleil managing partner and winemaker

Wine touring gets better in the Similkameen Valley in a few weeks when Clos du Soleil Winery opens its new tasting room.

The winery began selling its wines in 2008 without a wine shop because the production was modest at first. A few years ago, a small tasting room was created in a heritage house (left) that was on the property when it was a honey producer. The house is now gone, replaced by a 4,000 square foot winery which incorporates the new wine shop. Siding boards were salvaged from the heritage building for use in the wine shop.

“The entire tasting room, including the façade, is being done in a rustic French aesthetic to tie into the French philosophy of Clos du Soleil,” says Michael Clark, Clos du Soleil’s managing partner and winemaker. “The outside will look like a traditional French store front or café. The inside will tie in with that same wood panelled look, with a French country feel.”

Clos du Soleil was founded by a small group of Francophile wine lovers headed by Vancouver businessman Spencer Massie, a retired Canadian Navy officer. In 2007 the group bought a 10-acre property in the Similkameen Valley and planted Bordeaux varietals on nine of those acres. Ann Sperling, a Kelowna native who had gone to high school with Spencer, agreed to make Clos wines in her Sperling Vineyards winery.

Clos du Soleil, which produced closed to 5,000 cases in 2014, has now outgrown the Sperling facilities. That was one reason for the construction of a new winery on the Similkameen vineyard.

While Ann remains as a consultant, Michael took over making the wine in 2013 after investing in the Clos du Soleil partnership[ the year before. He comes with impressive credentials, including training from the University of California in Davis.

Born in Cambridge, Ontario, in 1972, he grew up in a lawyer’s home. His father had a wine cellar and classified growth Bordeaux wines were often on the Clark table.

“Wine had been my number one passion literally before I could drink wine,” Michael says. He was about 10 years old when he read the George Bain’s  Champagne is for Breakfast, still one of the best and funniest wine books by a Canadian author.

“I don’t know other children who loved to read wine books,” Michael laughs.

Initially, he carved out a career in finance, armed with a bachelor’s and master’s degree in theoretical physics followed by master of business administration from the University of British Columbia. He worked with the Royal Bank before moving to Boston and then Geneva. There he managed portfolios with a hedge fund and then with a bank.

“Eight or nine years ago, I made a commitment to move into winemaking full time,” he says. He studied enology and viticulture at L’Ecole de Changins, a Swiss engineering institute. He did several vintages in Bordeaux and also worked with a Swiss winery. He took the UCDavis distance learning program to get a winemaking certificate.

“To do it took about three years,” he says. “It was excellent, very rigorous, which is what I wanted. Winemaking is such a blend of science and art. That is what draws most people to it, including myself.  UCDavis is very focussed on the science part of it. With my background in physics and chemistry, it’s a natural for me.”

Rigorous also describes his approach at Clos du Soleil. Organic and biodynamic practices apply in the vineyard. The winery has been designed and equipped to make premium wines.   

“We are really happy where Clos du Soleil is, so my job as winemaker is to progress it,” Michael says. “Every year I want every wine to be getting better. There are things we can be doing in the vineyard, learning from the prior year and trying to do better the following year. And likewise in the cellar.”

He continues: “I can give you some examples. The vineyard management is getting better over time, both ours and the growers we work with. We get to know the soils better; we get to know the vines better. The vines are getting older and we are getting better fruit. So every year, whether it is tweaks to the pruning system; tweaks to any fertilization we do; whether it is continuing to build on the usage of the biodynamic system on our own property – all of that. Every year it has been going up.

“We get better fruit that way. Then when it comes into the winery, we are trying to improve the processing every year in terms of being very gentle with the fruit; sorting to have only the very best berries coming in. As we get more and more used to the different vineyard parcels and the characteristics of the fruit that comes from each parcel, I can fine tune how we treat them in the winery.”

He has a definite winemaking style in mind. “To me, delicacy matters,” Michael says. “We like to have at Clos du Soleil firm structure in our wines which makes them food friendly and ageable. We want firm tannins, but it is a matter of not overdoing things.  My philosophy is that our best wines demonstrate their quality in ways other than bigness or heaviness. A great wine, whether you are talking about Clos du Soleil or a classed growth in Bordeaux, has elegance and  complexity, not huge chewy fruit or aggressive tannins.” 

Four current releases from Clos du Soleil exemplify his art as a winemaker.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2014 ($19.90 for 432 cases). This is 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon. It begins with vibrant aromas of lime and lemon, leading to rich flavours of lime and grapefruit. There are subtle notes of herbs and oak, barely noticeable in the explosion of tropical fruit flavours. 92.

Clos du Soleil Pinot Blanc 2014 “Grower’s Series” ($19.90 for 500 cases). The term, Grower’s Series, indicates wines made from grapes grown on non-estate vineyards. This wine begins with appealing aromas of nectarines and ripe Ambrosia apples. On the palate, there are spicy flavours of pear and apple. Good acidity gives this wine a fresh and tangy finish. 91.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2014 ($19.90 for 867 cases). This is a rare and delicious example of a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé. The appeal begins with the colour, which glows like ruby. The wine has powerful aromas of strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, there are intense flavours of strawberry, cherry and rhubarb. The endless finish is crisp and dry. 92.

Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve White 2013 ($59 for 25 cases). On rare occasions, I have been able to taste the white wines produced by Bordeaux châteaux more famed for their reds. Invariably, they have been great whites with depth and complexity. This wine immediately reminded me of those wines. A blend of 62% Sauvignon Blanc and 38% Sémillon, it likely was barrel-fermented (the winery notes do not say that) and it was fermented entirely with wild yeast. Only one barrel was made.  The bone-dry wine is richly structured, with a good backbone of minerals. The term is this wine has “good bones” and will age well. It has aromas of lime and grapefruit which carry over to the flavour, along with pear and citrus flavours. 95

Top Tier Chianti wines are arriving

Impressive bottles of the new ultra-premium tier of Chianti Classico, which Italian legislation last year named Gran Selezione, have begun entering the market.

These wine clearly raise the bar of Chianti quality. These wines are a step about Chianti Classico Riserva and a considerable step up from standard(if still very good) Chianti Classico.

Recently, a group of Chianti producers have sponsored tastings in major Canadian cities to get the word out.

It is worth their effort: Canada is the world’s fourth largest market for Chianti Classico. In British Columbia, Chianti sales have risen nine per cent in the past year while sales of premium Chianti Classicos have risen 16%.

The difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico is one of geography. The borders of Chianti Classico were defined in 1716 and take in the vineyards between Florence and Siena. Currently, 7,200 hectares of vineyards have been registered to produce Chianti Classico. The wines are made primarily by the 566 members of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico.

With the growing popularity of Chianti in the 20^th century, plantings – mostly of Sangiovese grapes, a main variety – spread across the Tuscan landscape, surrounding the historic Chianti Classico area.

There are plenty of good wines (along with plenty of ordinary wines) made in the greater Chianti area. However, the producers in the Classico area take great pains to defend the reputation of their frequently superior wines.

The Gran Selezione designation is the latest effort to burnish the reputation. It was created as a vehicle for the very best and most terroir-driven wines of Chianti Classico. Currently, only four per cent of the Classico wines have this designation. As other wines are rolled it, it may account, at most, for the top 10%.

The Gran Selection wines are all estate-grown wines, made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, with the other 20% being either indigenous varieties or international varieties like Merlot. Fermentation must be done with the wild yeast in the estate vineyard, not with inoculations of cultured yeast. The object is the preserve the terroir.

The wines must have a minimum of 13% alcohol and must be aged 30 months, usually in wood and bottles, before release.

And when a producer nominates a wine to be a Gran Selezione, the wine must first pass a blind tasting by a panel of wine judges.

If you still remember Chianti as the inexpensive red in a pot-bellied bottle that university students used to drink, you will get a little sticker shock from the new Gran Selezione wines. The three so far listed in British Columbia are priced between $40 and $55 a bottle. These wines are San Felice Il Grigio 2010, Vicchiomaggio La Prima 2010 and San Fabiano Calcinaia Cellole 2010.

Additional listings are in the works, judging for the enthusiasm for Chianti Classico espoused by the Liquor Distribution Branch’s senior buyer, Barb Philip MW.

The Vancouver tastings were led by Sergio Zingarelli, the owner of Rocca delle Macìe and the current president of the Chianti Classico consortium. One of his Gran Selezione wines would retail for $106 if it gets to this market; another will retail around $50. These are exceptional wines, as they should be for the price.

While you are waiting, you should try his budget Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico. The LDB currently has the 2011 vintage in 82 liquor stores at about $20 a bottle. At the tasting, I tasted the 2013, which will be here soon, and which is a delicious wine bursting with cherry aromas and flavours.

The basic Chianti Classico wines are good. However, the wines designated Gran Selezione or Riserva (the tier just below) offer more of everything: the wines are deeper in flavour, more elegant in structure and better suited to aging. All the Gran Selezione wines that I tasted scored 90 to 93 points.

When next you buy any Chianti Classico, take a look at the Black Rooster, the traditional trademark of these wines. It has been slightly updated and the symbol, which used to be on the government seal, now has a more prominent place, either on the neck of the bottle or on the back label.

Why that trademark? Here is the entertaining explanation from the consortium:

The Black Rooster has always been the symbol of the entire Chianti region. The origin of this is lost in time: an amusing legend narrates of the rivalry existing in the Middle Ages between Siena and Florence.

According to this legend, in order to cease their endless fighting, the two Tuscan cities decided to leave the definition of their respective boundaries to a remarkable feat between knights: they were to leave their hometowns at cockcrow and wherever they would have met each other, that exact spot would have been the border between the two republics.

For this purpose, the citizens of Siena raised a beautiful white rooster, which grew big and fat. The Florentines, instead, chose a black rooster and never fed him, so that on the fateful day he was so famished, he started to crow even before sunrise.

As a result, the Florentine knight was able to set out very early in the morning: he met the knight from Siena in Fonterutoli –merely twelve Kilometers from Siena -, as the latter had left much later: this is the reason why almost all of the Chianti territory was united under the rule of the Florentine Republic.

Even if this is only a legend, it is however confirmed that the Black Rooster profile has represented the emblem of the historic Chianti League, which ruled over these lands since the beginning of the 14th century. The artist Giorgio Vasari painted the Black Rooster on the ceiling of the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio, as an allegorical representation of the Chianti region. The Consortium has ultimately selected this seven-century old symbol as a certification of its wines.

  

Naramata Bench 2015 tasting: Part two.

 Photo: Bench 1775's Val Tait

The most crowded wine real estate in the Okanagan is the Naramata Bench, a loosely defined area that stretches from Penticton to the Chute Lake turnoff north of Naramata.

Including a few virtual wineries, there are 38 producers. You can drive from one end to the other in 45 minutes, without breaking the speed limit. Only a teetotaller would fail to find something to drink here. Most wine tourists are just overwhelmed by the choices.

The Naramata Bench Wineries Association represents 25 of those producers. The association has just concluded its annual spring tasting events in Victoria and Vancouver. Those attending likely also were overwhelmed by the choices. Even after spending six hours at the Vancouver tastings, I still missed a few wineries.

That is not to complain. Two decades ago, there were not this many wineries in all of British Columbia. There certainly was not the quality of wine either. British Columbia’s wine consumers are fortunate indeed.

For those unable to attend, here are my notes on some of the wines. I am dividing the reviews into two parts. Just like you might never get to the far end of Naramata Road in one day, you might never get to the end of this in one reading.

The prices are close but sometimes not exact, thanks to the government’s decision to separate the taxes. Add about 15% to prices ending on odd numbers.

Bench 1775 Winery boasts that it has the best view on the Naramata Bench. From the winery’s patio, the view takes in vineyards and Okanagan Lake, with Summerland and Giant’s Head on the far side. The winery has beach access on the lake where it hosts weddings.

Bench 1775 Chill 2014 ($18). This seven-grape blend is anchored on Pinot Gris. The wine, as you might expect, is a total fruit salad, with flavours of mango and pink grapefruit. It is lively and refreshing. 90.

Bench 1775 Pinot Gris 2014 ($22). A wine with a juicy mid-palate but a crisp finish, this appeals with aromas and flavours of citrus, apple and melon. 89.

Bench 1775 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($22). This is a racy white, with aromas and flavours of lemon, lime and grapefruit. Winemaker Val Tait builds the layers of flavour by picking the grapes four different times. The early pickings contribute the vibrant character and the later pickings bring riper flavours. 91.

Bench 1775 Glow 2014 ($19.90). This is a Malbec rosé, Salmon pink in hue, it has aromas and flavours of strawberry and rhubarb. It is a light, refreshing and dry rosé recalling rosé wines of the south of France. 89.

Bench 1775 Grove 2013 ($20). This is a blend of 57.7% Malbec, 16.9% Merlot, 8.4% Cabernet Franc and 7% Syrah. The wine begins with the appealing perfumed aromas of Malbec. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, blackberry, raspberry and plum. The soft ripe tannins make this an accessible and easy-drinking red. 88.

Bench 1775 Merlot Collector Series 2013 ($30). This is wine with intense flavours of cassis, vanilla and black cherry, with flavours of sage, black currant and black cherry, accentuated with the oak notes from having spent a year in barrel. There is a touch of cocoa on the finish. 90.

Bench 1775 Cabernet Franc Malbec 2013 ($N/A). This is a 50/50 blend with all the brambly aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc along with the aromas of violets and the black cherry and mocha flavours from the Malbec. The wine has a firm, age-worthy texture. 91.

Bench 1775 Malbec 2013 ($30). This winery makes good use of its Malbec, a variety of rising profile in the Okanagan. This wine has aromas of violets, black cherry and plum, supplemented by flavours of black cherry, loganberry and mulberry. 91.

Black Widow Winery opened in 2006 and began making wine a few years earlier. Winemaker and co-owner Dick Lancaster last year began treating his wine climb members to vertical tastings of his flagship Bordeaux blend, Hourglass. He was not pouring it at the Naramata Bench tasting but he is planning another vertical at the winery in July.

Black Widow Pinot Gris 2014 ($21 for 530 cases). A little skin contact has given this wine an appealing blush. It begins with aromas of citrus and spice, leading to flavours of citrus and apple with a haunting touch of anise on the crisp finish. 91.

Black Widow Gewürztraminer 2014 ($22 for 220 cases). The winery calls this off-dry but the balance is so exquisite that most palates would find it dry. The wine has aromas of spice and grapefruit rind, leading to intensely spicy flavours of lychee and grapefruit. 91.

Black Widow Oasis 2014 ($22 for 700 cases). This is an aromatic and fruity blend of Schönburger, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. It has refined spicy aromas and flavours with hints of herbs and citrus. 91.

Black Widow Schönburger 2014 ($25). This is a spicy Muscat cousin bred in Geisenheim in 1939 and commercialized in 1980. British Columbia may have the third largest planting (the acreage is miniscule) after German and Britain. It makes a lovely light aromatic wine, delicately spiced with flavours of orange and grapefruit.  92.

Black Widow Muscat Ottonel 2014 ($25 for 85 cases). Dick Lancaster seems to have an affinity for aromatic varietals. This is the winery’s first Muscat Ottonel, with grapes sourced from a nearby vineyard. It is spicy on the nose and palate with the classic grapey flavours of Muscat. A touch of residual sugar lifts both the aromas and flavours. 90.

Black Widow Syrah Rosé 2014 ($23 for 80 cases). This dry rosé  is loaded with flavour. It begins with aromas of strawberry and raspberry and goes on to flavours of cherry and plum, with a lingering finish. 90.

Black Widow Merlot 2012 ($30 for 240 cases). Bold and ripe, this has layers of flavour – black currant, plum, chocolate, vanilla. The wine has been aged 21 months in French oak (30% new). That polished the ripe tannins which frame the spoonful of ripe fruit on the palate. 91.

Black Widow Phobia 2013 ($27 for 150 cases). This is an effective blend of Syrah and Merlot (50% each). The Syrah provides most of the power. The wine begins with aromas of prune plum and black cherry.  On the palate, there are earthy flavours of plums with a touch of black pepper. The Merlot contributes structure and a note of black currant. 91.

Black Widow Red Back 2013 ($32 for 200 cases). This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. The wine gets its firm and ageable structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon, along with a note of black currant. On the finish, the wine has notes of liquorice and chocolate. 91.

D’Angelo Estate Winery was opened in 2007 by Sal D’Angelo. He operates a winery of the same name near Windsor, now managed by his son, Chris. The Naramata winery has a more attractive setting and arguably a better terroir.

D’Angelo Viognier 2012 ($15). This is D’Angelo’s only white, from a one-acre block of Viognier. The wine begins with delicate honeysuckle aromas leading to flavours of peach and apricot. Medium-bodied, the wine has a crisp finish. 88.

D’Angelo Pinot Noir 2009 ($18). At six years of age, this wine still is firm and concentrated, seemingly needing a few more years or a vigorous decanting. There are flavours of black cherry, plum and chocolate, with a touch of vanilla from the 18 months the wine aged in French and Hungarian oak. 88.

D’Angelo Sette Copa 2010 ($25). This is a blend of 40% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 18% Malbec 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. It is an intense and brooding red with flavours of black currant, cola and dark chocolate. 90.

Kettle Valley Winery, which opened in 1996, is one of the pioneers of the Naramata Bench. Owners and winemakers Bob Ferguson and Tim Watts have a reputation for producing wines full of flavour, with remarkable longevity.

Kettle Valley Gewürztraminer 2013 ($22). This wine begins with dramatic aromas of spice and ginger. On the palate, there are herbal and spicy flavours mingled with grapefruit. The intense flavours stay on the palate for many minutes. 91.

Kettle Valley Pinot Gris 2013 ($24). Kettle Valley is among the few wineries that give lots of skin contact to Pinot Gris, extracting a rose-coloured hue and a great deal of flavour. This has aromas and flavours of apples, citrus and rhubarb. 90.

Great Northern Viognier 2014 ($21). This is Kettle Valley’s Similkameen label. This is a ripe and luscious wine with flavours of apricots and ripe peaches. 90.

Kettle Valley Hayman Pinot Noir 2012 ($38). This begins with aromas of plums and prunes, leading to flavours of cherry and strawberry set against earthy notes of forest floor. This is built to age. 90-92.

Kettle Valley Old Main Red 2012 ($38 for 263 cases).  This is an intense, even brooding, red with aromas of black cherry, black currant and vanilla. This is echoed on the palate, along with flavours of dark chocolate and coffee. 92.

Quidni Estate Winery this year has taken over the winery and the tasting room formerly operated by the unsuccessful 3 Mile Estate Winery. When new owner Marty Gunderson took over the roadside property, his friends asked him why and he replied why not. That is more or less what Quidni means in Latin. His winemaker is Todd Moore who has long juggled a career as a consulting winemaker with a career as a fire fighter.

Quidni Viognier 2014 ($NA). This is a crisply refreshing white, with aromas of stone fruit and flavours of green apples. 90.

Quidni Gewürztraminer 2013 ($NA). This is another crisp and clean white, with spicy aromas and flavours of grapefruit and lychee. 89.

Quidni Merlot 2013 ($19). This is a juicy, approachable Merlot with long ripe tannins supporting flavours of black cherry, cassis and vanilla. 88.

Red Rooster Winery’s Karen Gillis rarely puts a foot wrong in the cellar, making wines that are eminently drinkable. Her marketing department seems so impressed that a number of the wines are designated “reserve.” That term is often overused in the Okanagan but perhaps not in Karen’s case.

Red Rooster Reserve Viognier 2014 ($19 for 317 cases). This is a lovely aromatic white, with a hint of grapefruit and stone fruit on the nose. On the palate, there are flavours of peach and apricot with lingering tropical fruit flavours on the finish. The finish is crisp and refreshing, a remarkable achievement in a wine with 14.4% alcohol. 91.

Red Rooster Riesling 2013 ($14.75). If I have ever met an underpriced Riesling, this is it. The wine is already developing the petrol aromas beloved by Riesling aficionados, along with grapefruit and tangerine. It has flavours of marmalade and grapefruit rind around a spine of minerals. 92

Red Rooster Reserve Rosé 2013 ($19.10 for 480 cases). This is a blend of  35% Malbec, 27% Cabernet Franc, 15% Syrah, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Pinot Noir and 3% Grenache. The winery’s tasting notes are a bit more verbose than mine but I totally agree with them. “‘Pretty in Pink’ colour with a summer fresh aroma of strawberry, watermelon, crab apple, red currant, cherry and rose petal.  The medium frame is supported by refreshing acidity.  Flavours of red berry, currant and red cherry fill the mouth.  Refreshing red fruits and red berry tea notes linger on the finish of this extra-dry rosé.” 90 

Red Rooster Cabernet Merlot 2012 ($16.50). Here is another bargain. The blend is 36% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Mourvedre, 3% Malbec and 3% Grenache.  The wine was tank fermented and aged in older (80%) American oak and (20%) French oak barrels for 14 months. There are aromas of cassis, black cherry and oak with flavours of black currant, blueberry, plum and spice. The soft tannins make this a candidate for drinking now. The winery advises drinking it by 2017. 90.

Red Rooster Reserve Meritage 2012 ($21.75 for 1,150 cases). The varietals in this blend were fermented individually in newer French and American oak barrels for 10 months. At that point, the best barrels were selected and blended, with another four months oak aging to follow. The blend is 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. This well-structured wine seemed a little shy on the nose but showed excellent flavours of black currant, blackberry and mocha. The wine is built to age. 90.

Terravista Vineyards is the winery that Black Hills co-founders Bob and Senka Tennant opened in 2011 after emerging from a brief wine industry sabbatical. Terravista only produces white wines, including the only wines in the Okanagan made from two Spanish varieties, Albariño and Verdejo.

Terravista Albariño 2014 ($18.90). This is an interesting white. It has good weight on the palate with a crisply dry finish. It has aromas and flavours of apples and honeydew melons with hints of herbs. 91.

Terravista Viognier 2014 ($18.90). This is an appealing and ripe Viognier, with aromas and flavours of apricots and peaches. The juicy fruit and texture effectively balances the 14% alcohol. 91.

Terravista Fandango 2013 ($24.90). This is a blend of Albariño and Verdejo. The flavours and aromatics are similar to the single varietal Albariño. The wine is fresh and lively with excellent length and persistence. 92.

Terravista Figaro 2013 ($23.90). This is the winery’s Rhone blend – Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne. It has aromas and flavours of stone fruit and shows good weight on the palate. A lovely hint of hazelnuts persists on the dry finish. 90.

Van Westen Vineyards was opened in 2005 by Robert Van Westen. The winery and the tasting room, which is open occasionally, has taken over a former fruit packing plant. The Van Westens have been fruit growers for decades and likely still are the largest cherry growers on the Naramata Bench.

Van Westen Voluptuous 2011 ($29.90 for 319 cases). This wine is always a blend of 67% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Franc, reflecting the plantings in single vineyard that produces the wine. The wine has aromas of plums, mulberry and black olives, with flavours of plums, blueberries and black currants. The wine is still firm and is quite ageworthy. 90.

Van Westen V 2011 ($34.90 for 426 cases). This is called V because it incorporates all five Bordeaux varietals: 49% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 24% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot. This is the third vintage of V, which Robert began making when he had access to all five varieties. This is a bold wine, with layers of dark fruit (cassis, plum, black cherry) with a note of sage. The firm texture also indicates the need to cellar the wine and be rewarded with your patience. 90-92.

Van Westen/DiBello Pinot Noir 2013 ($39.90 for 51 cases). Robert collaborated with winemaker Tom DiBello to make this wine. It is seductive and silky with aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry. 90.

Naramata Bench 2015 tasting: Part One.

Photo: Naramata winegrowers Will (l) and Bryan Hardman

The most crowded wine real estate in the Okanagan is the Naramata Bench, a loosely defined area that stretches from Penticton to the Chute Lake turnoff north of Naramata.

Including a few virtual wineries, there are 38 producers. You can drive from one end to the other in 45 minutes, without breaking the speed limit. Only a teetotaller would fail to find something to drink here. Most wine tourists are just overwhelmed by the choices.

The Naramata Bench Wineries Association represents 25 of those producers. The association has just concluded its annual spring tasting events in Victoria and Vancouver. Those attending likely also were overwhelmed by the choices. Even after spending six hours at the Vancouver tastings, I still missed a few wineries.

That is not to complain. Two decades ago, there were not this many wineries in all of British Columbia. There certainly was not the quality of wine either. British Columbia’s wine consumers are fortunate indeed.

For those unable to attend, here are my notes on some of the wines. I am dividing the reviews in several parts, so as not to post an excessively long document.

The prices are close but sometimes not exact, thanks to the government’s decision to separate the taxes. Add about 15% to prices ending on odd numbers.

Deep Roots Winery, which opened last year, is one of the newest of the Naramata wineries, but, as the name suggests, one with roots. Bryan Hardman and his son, Will, the winemaker, are one of the two winery owners actually born in the region. (Robert Van Westen of Van Westen Vineyards is the other.)

Deep Roots Pinot Gris 2014 ($19). This wine begins with honey and mango aromas, leading to flavours of pear and apple. The slightly off-dry finish gives the wine a plump texture. 90.

Deep Roots Unoaked Chardonnay 2014 ($21). Long, cool fermentation with this wine (as with the Pinot Gris) have preserved aromas and flavours of tropical fruit. It begins with aromas of mango and cantaloupe leading to flavours of mango, melon, peach and papaya. 89.

Deep Roots Rosé 2014 ($19). This is two-thirds Merlot, one-third Gamay, with a deep colour from four days of skin contact. The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry and strawberry, with an off-dry finish that gives the wine a fleshy texture. 89.

Deep Roots Gamay 2014 ($22). Approachable and easy drinking, this wine has aromas and flavours of cherry and blackberry with white pepper and spice on the finish. 88.

Deep Roots Merlot 2013 ($26). This is a full-bodied Merlot with intense aromas of plum and blueberry, leading to flavours of black currant, blueberry and vanilla. 90.

Deep Roots Malbec 2013 ($28). This begins with the classic and appealing Malbec aromas – violets, spice and plums. On the palate there are flavours of plums and mulberry. The firm texture suggests this will age well. 90.

Deep Roots Syrah 2013 ($34). This wine has the typical note of black pepper on the nose and the palate, accentuating the earthy, gamey flavours that mingle with dark chocolate and plum. 90.

Deep Roots Frosted Pinot 2014 ($22 for 375 ml). The bounteous harvest of 2014 allowed the Hardmans to leave some Pinot Gris for late harvest. The grapes for this were picked on three days, all at or near Icewine temperatures. Will blended the three lots to make a delicious dessert wine with intense tropical fruit aromas and flavours. The fresh acidity balances the sweetness and leaves the palate refreshed. 90.

Elephant Island Orchard Wines has, since opening in 2001, established itself as one of the best fruit wineries in British Columbia. In recent years, it has also added three grape wines to its portfolio, under the Unconventional Wisdom label.

Unconventional Wisdom “The Other Way” Chardonnay 2014 ($17.39). This is a brand new wine from this producer, made because owners Del and Miranda Halladay bought a small vineyard a few years ago that grows, among other varieties, some Chardonnay. This is a crisp and refreshing wine, with just three months in oak, recalls a Chablis, with citrus aromas and flavours and a backbone of minerals. 90.

Unconventional Wisdom “I Told You So Viognier” 2013 ($22.99). This is a glorious expression of tropical fruit aromas and flavours, with notes of spice, pineapple and ripe apricots. 91.

Elephant Island Pink Elephant Sparkling Brut 2012 (21.79). This is a refreshing bottle fermented sparkling wine made with Granny Smith apples and a cassis dosage. The flavours are generous and long-lasting. The finish is crisp. 90.

Elephant Island Pear 2013 ($14.79). Crisp and fresh, this has flavours of spice and pear with a hint of mint and liquorice on the dry finish. 90.

Elephant Island Cherry 2014 ($14.79). Dark in colour, this wine’s aromas and flavours have the gamey, meaty notes of a good rare steak. The finish is dry. This would indeed pair well with venison. 90.

Elephant Island Blackberry 2014 ($15.69). If I had tasted this blind, I might have taken it for a medium-bodied Cabernet Franc that has spent time in good new French oak. The wine was, in fact, fermented in stainless steel. The spicy flavours are all blackberry and the impression of oak likely comes from the seeds. 90.

Elephant Island Crab Apple Wine 2013 ($16.59 for 375 ml). The tangy acidity turbocharges the crisp and refreshing apple flavours. 90.

Elephant Island Apricot Desert Wine 2013 ($16.59 for 375 ml). Well-balanced with good acidity, this has appealing spicy fruit flavours. 90.

Elephant Island Framboise Fortified Wine ($17.39 for 375 ml). This is like smelling and drinking raspberry jam. The aromas are intense and the flavours just last and last. The wine is rich but neither cloying nor heavy. 92.

La Frenz Winery, which opened in 2000, has a very long portfolio. This is the one to take to a dessert island because it covers almost all wine styles except sparkling wine.

La Frenz Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($18.99). This is refreshing, with aromas and flavours of lime and lemon around a backbone of crisp acidity and minerality. 91.

La Frenz Sémillon 2013 ($19.09). This is loaded with tropical aromas and flavours – honeyed notes of lime and papaya. 91.

La Frenz Riesling 2014 ($17.29). New to the portfolio, this is from a young planting near the winery. The wine is crisp and tangy, with aromas and flavours of citrus around a spine of minerals. 89.

La Frenz Viognier 2014 ($18.99). This begins with aromas of pears and apricots, leading to flavours of apricots, figs and marmalade. A gentle warmth of alcohol lingers in the background of this ripe and rich wine. 89.

 La Frenz Reserve Pinot Noir 2013 ($27.79) and ‘Desperation Hill’ Pinot Noir 2012 ($19.99). The grapes are from the same vineyard but the reserve, a selection of best lots and best barrels, is more of everything. The reserve has aromas of strawberries, cherries and vanilla, with a refreshing and silky structure. A very pretty wine. 92.

La Frenz Grand Total Reserve 2012 ($34.69). This blend of the five Bordeaux varieties is the pinnacle of the La Frenz reds. A powerful wine, it has notes of black cherry, cassis and leather on the nose, leading to rich, ripe flavours of black cherry, dark chocolate and vanilla. 93.

Lake Breeze Vineyards, coming up to its 20^th anniversary next year, is planning to enlarge its tasting room and add a new barrel cellar. Currently, an expanded winery park lot is being completed to handle the crowds at this popular winery.

Lake Breeze Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($17.39). This is a refreshing white with crisp and focussed aromas and flavours of herbs, lime and lemon. 91.

Lake Breeze Pinot Gris 2014 ($16.59). In my view, this is a must-have Pinot Gris from this vintage. It is just bursting with clean, fresh flavours of apples, ripe pear, ripe pineapple and citrus. 92.

Lake Breeze Spice Jar 2014 ($16.49). This is a lively and quaffable blend of Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Schönburger. The spicy aroma leads to flavours of tangerine, ripe apple and lychee. 90.

Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay 2012 ($21.79). This begins with appealing aromas of cloves and citrus, leading to flavours of tangerine and ripe apple, with lingering fruit and spice on the long finish. 90.

Lake Breeze Merlot 2012 ($17.39). This is a ripe, almost jammy wine with concentrated flavours of cassis, black cherry and blueberry. 90.

Lake Breeze Meritage 2012 ($18.29). This is a firm, ageable red with favours of black currant and coffee, and an earthiness on the finish. The core of sweet fruit is not yet fully emerged. Decant this before drinking. 88.

Lake Breeze Pinot Noir 2012 ($22.69). This is a bit of a brooding earthy style, with a firm structure and flavours of cherry. I would certainly age this for another three to five years. 89.

LaStella and Le Vieux Pin show three vintages

Photo: Winemaker Severine Pinte-Kosaka

The new releases from sister wineries LaStella and Le Vieux Pin offer a glimpse of the last three vintages in the Okanagan.

The 2012 vintage was very good. The 2013 challenged growers but those who rose to the challenge made good wines. And 2014? For what I hear from the industry, it may have been the best vintage in 20 years.

“2012 was classic Okanagan, with no rain in the fall at all, no disease pressure, zero need for sorting,” says Rasoul Salehi, a marketing executive with both wineries. “The grapes were quite thick skinned, quite small berried; the only concern we had was keeping the alcohols in check.”

He continues by describing 2013 as almost two vintages. In September that year, midway through the harvest, it rained in the Okanagan and Similkameen, which is quite unusual for that month. Grapes picked before the rain were generally healthy. The rain, which lasted several days, caused mould and rot among grapes with tight bunches (the Pinot family and Viognier) – especially those grapes already damaged by the unbelievable wasp explosion of that season. But those producers who escaped rot then had a long warm autumn in which to finish ripening fruit.

“2014 was a really interesting year,” Rasoul says. It was one of warmest, driest years in a long time. Even the nights were warmer than usual. Severine Pinte-Kosaka, the French-trained winemaker at these wineries, said it reminded her of the south of France.

“We had a huge picking window,” Rasoul says. “We had to pick earlier just to preserve the natural acidity and keep the ph in balance. We did not have the huge diurnal shift we usually get.”

Having to pick earlier was not a disadvantage. The grapes generally ripened early and the alcohol in some of the finished wines is more moderate – 12% and 13% in the case of the rosé wines from these wineries. That certainly promotes the drinkability of the wines.

Here are notes on the current releases.

LaStella Vivace Pinot Grigio 2014 ($24.90 f0r 771 cases). This expressive wine begins with aromas of spice, pears and citrus. On the palate, there are generous flavours of apple, pear and melon. The wine has a dry finish and good spine of minerality. 90.

LaStella Lastellino Rosé ($22.90 for 421 cases). This rosé is approximately 50% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, which were pressed together. The remainder is Sangiovese, bled from the tank. Salmon pink in colour, it has a juice texture with the slightest hint of sweetness. It has aromas and flavours of Bing cherries. Luscious on the palate, the wine has a lingering finish. 90.

Le Vieux Pin Vaïla Rosé 2014 ($24.90 for 768 cases). This delicious wine is made entirely with Pinot Noir pressed for rosé; it is not a saignée rosé. The wine begins with appealing strawberry aromas leading to flavours of rhubarb and pink grapefruit. The wine has a refreshing dry, tangy finish. 90.

Le Vieux Pin Ava 2013 ($34.90 for 690 cases). This is 50% Viognier, 41% Roussanne and 9% Marsanne. Half the blend was barrel-aged but the rest was aged in stainless steel, preserving fresh and vibrant fruit. The wine begins with aromas of apricot, strawberry and peach, leading to flavours of apricots. There is a slightly bitter note, like chewing on an apricot pit, which just adds complexity to the refreshing fruit flavours and the crisp finish. 91

Le Vieux Pin Petit Rouge 2013 ($24 for 600 cases). This is primarily Merlot with a little Syrah to fill out the blend. The wine begins with demonstrative fruit aromas – black currant, blackberry and cherry. These are echoed on the palate and in the spicy finish. The soft ripe tannins make this an approachable wine for drinking now; but it will cellar well for a few years. 90.

Le Vieux Pin Syrah Cuvée Classique 2012 ($49 for 393 cases). This dark brooding Syrah begins with aromas of plum and black pepper. It has smoky flavours of black olives and plums with an earthy note on the finish. The minerality gives this wine a muscular and age-worthy structure. 92-94.

Le Vieux Pin Syrah “Cuvée Violette” 2013 ($29 for 891 cases). The wine begins with aromas of black cherry delicately accented with white pepper. On the palate, there are earthy flavours, including plum, black cherry and pepper. The wine aged 14 months in French oak (none of it new). The structure is firm enough to support a few years of cellaring. 91.

Le Vieux Pin Équinoxe Cabernet Franc 2012 ($149 for 25 cases). Not yet released, this powerful wine could pass for a Barolo. The immense concentration of texture and flavours results from cropping the vines at 8/10 of a ton an acre and from aging the wine 26 months in French oak. The wine begins with aromas of black cherry, blackberry and black currants. On the palate, the texture is bold, with flavours of black currant, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. 95.

Culmina raises the bar again

 Photo: Culmina proprietor Don Triggs

Don and Elaine Triggs, and Sara, their daughter, launched Culmina Family Estate Winery with wines grown in the challenging 2011 vintage.

As good as the debut wines were, one wondered what Culmina would do with a more typical Okanagan vintage. The answer: even better wines.

Don has a chart tracking the growing degree days in his Arise vineyard (south of Oliver) in the last four vintages. “In 2011, we had about 1,350 degree days on Arise compared with 1,65o in 2014,” he says. “A 300 degree day change.” Both 2012 and 2013 also were warmer years, although not quite as warm as 2014.

The bottom line: wines made in 2012, 2013 and 2014 all show more power and intensity. This spring, Don has been hosting tastings, mostly for sommeliers, to prime the sales when the wines are released.

I have also had a chance to taste the wines and they are terrific. The good news is that this year’s releases include a fine Meritage blend for $25, an entry-level red for those who find Culmina’s $44 red, Hypotheses, beyond their budget. The bad news is that the 285 cases of Unicus 2014, the white made with Grüner Veltliner, is almost entirely on allocation to restaurants.

“The issue is how are we going to find more terroir like Margaret’s Bench,” Don says, referring to high altitude vineyard where he planted the Okanagan’s first Grüner Veltliner. This is the major white variety grown in Austria.

The first release of Unicus, from the 2013 vintage, was only 60 cases. With the vineyard reaching full production in 2014, Culmina expected a more substantial bump in volume.

“It was a big challenge,” Don says. “We are still learning. That early heat wave we got in July, 2014, thickened up the skins. Pressing it was like pressing rubber bullets. We got 40% less wine than we thought we would have had.”

But what a wine! Unicus 2014 ($27) begins with floral and citrus aromas with a hint of white pepper. It delivers a fruit basket of flavour, including lime and guava. The finish of this dry wine refuses to quit. 92.

Decora 2014 ($23 for 800 cases) is the winery’s Riesling. It is a racy, exciting, bone-dry wine that will be offered both to restaurants and to wine stores. It begins with floral and citrus aromas that lead to flavours of lime and lemon with a spine of minerality. While this still shows all the primary fruit aromas and flavours of a young Riesling, it will blossom over the next several years to show that complexity that Riesling fans call petrol. 91.

Dilemma 2012 ($33 for 160 cases). This is Culmina’s Chardonnay. It was released in January and is almost sold out. The style seems Burgundian, perhaps because winemaker Pascal Madevon’s grandfather was from Burgundy. The wine has toasty notes of expensive French oak on the nose and on the palate, along with buttery notes and rich tangerine flavours. 92.

Saignée 2014 ($25 for 600 cases) is Culmina’s dry, food-friendly rosé. The wine is made by bleeding some juice from newly-pressed reds: four tanks of Merlot, two each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. A salmon-pink wine, it has aromas and flavours of strawberry, rhubarb and cranberry.  The wine has good weight on the palate and a very long finish. 91.

This is Culmina’s second rosé. This vintage, which will be available in wine stores, comes in a brilliant package. Culmina is using tall, crystal-clear bottles produced by Saber Glass in Europe, with glass stopper closures.

“This is made entirely from Bordeaux reds and the idea is to position it more as a food wine,” Don says. “This isn’t your sweet pink popsicle. Consumers are starting to discover that rosé isn’t just a refreshment wine. It’s a real food wine and you can do things with it.”

New this year is R&D Red Blend 2013 by Culmina ($25 for 800 cases). This is a meritage anchored around Merlot and made to be an approachable red for earlier consumption than Hypothesis. This wine, to be released in June, shows that 2013 was a strong vintage. The wine begins with aromas of vanilla, black cherry and black currant. It is generous on the palate with flavours of black currant, dark chocolate and coffee. The texture is firm enough that the wine benefits from decanting; it will also cellar well. 91.

The wine has an intriguing label reproducing a Triggs family photograph of eleven-year-old twin brothers, Ron and Don Triggs. Ron is now a retired sales executive and a passionate fisherman.

“R&D is also a reflection of all the research and development we did in the vineyard,” Don says.

Hypothesis 2012 ($44 for 2,200 cases) is the second release of Culmina’s flagship red. This is 57% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 17% Cabernet Franc. This is a wine built to age a decade or so but, with time in a decanter, it can already be appreciated. It has aromas of vanilla and black cherry. The texture is concentrated and almost chewy, with flavours of black currant, black cherry, dark chocolate, coffee and cedar. The point score depends on how long you age the wine. 91-94.

Okanagan Falls wineries show their wines in 2015

Photo: Liquidity Winery's tasting room and bistro

The thirteen wineries that make up the Okanagan Falls Winery Association recently showcased their wines in Vancouver, to considerable acclaim from those attending.

This is an association which includes some of British Columbia’s longest producing wineries (Blue Mountain and Wild Goose) along with promising recent entries (Liquidity and Synchromesh).

What links the wineries geographically is that their vineyards either overlook Skaha Lake or are clustered around the town of Okanagan Falls. This is one of the oldest towns in the south Okanagan. It is a community so modest that wine tourists have been in the habit of driving through, perhaps just with a stop at Tickleberry’s for ice cream.

In recent years, however, the wineries have begun offering attractions to keep the wine tourists there. Painted Rock Winery has one of the most elegant tasting rooms in the valley. Liquidity and Wild Goose both have opened restaurants with spectacular food. See Ya Later Ranch has always had a spectacular view from the terrace beside the heritage house serving as a wine shop.

I suspect there are more attractions coming. Development in Okanagan Falls has been restricted by an inadequate sewage treatment system. I believe that has now been addressed.

As usual, I could get around to every table. I missed the excellent wines at Meyer Family Vineyards, Painted Rock Estate Winery and Stag’s Hollow Winery.

(I did taste some Stag’s Hollow wine the following day. I can report that the winery’s Tragically Vidal 2014, at $19, is the best the winery has made yet. It just brims with lemon and lime aromas and flavours.)

But here are notes on the rest of the wines I did taste.

There were a number of 2014 wines. That promises to be a very good vintage, the Okanagan’s third strong vintage in a row.

Blasted Church Vineyards opened in 2000 as Prpich Hills. After Chris and Evelyn Campbell took it over two years later, the name was changed. The name change and the brilliant caricature labels drew attention to the winery and the wines have held that interest.

Blasted Church 2014 Sauvignon Blanc  ($19.50). This is a delicious white with lots of tropical fruit aromas and flavours, along with notes of herbs and gooseberry. The finish is tangy and refreshing. 90.

Blasted Church Pinot Gris 2013 ($20.50 for 2,500 cases). This is a crisp white with flavours of pear, citrus and apple and a hint of anise on the finish. This wine is almost sold out. 90.

Blasted Church Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 ($26.50 for 2,721 cases). This is a fairly complex blend: Cabernet Sauvignon (53%) Merlot (38%) Malbec (5.5%) Syrah (2.1%) Petit Verdot (1.4%). There is lots of black cherry and cassis in the aroma and on the palate, with notes of leather and cedar on the finish. 90.

Blasted Church Nothing Sacred 2010 ($41). The winery is just releasing the 2011 vintage but you might be able to find 2010 in wine stores. This is a reserve Meritage that winery began making in 2007. Production typically is just 200 cases. This is a delicious wine, with flavours of plum, black cherry, cassis and a hint of mocha. 91.

Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars. The Mavety family has been farming its Okanagan Falls vineyard since 1972. The winery, opened in 1992, is arguably the anchor tenant in the Okanagan Falls wine region, now that it has begun to open its wine shop from spring through autumn.

Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2013 ($20.90). There is often an element of restraint in the elegant Blue Mountain style – there is never too much oak, never too much malo, never too much alcohol. This wine is bright flavours of citrus and apples with a crisp finish. 90.

Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2013 ($25). The sad news is that this wine is sold out at the winery. No wonder. It is delicious, with a toasty note and cherry aromas on the nose, leading to flavours of cherry and raspberry. The texture is silky. This is an elegant and pretty wine. 90.

Blue Mountain Brut NV ($23.90). Arguably, this is the best value among the Okanagan’s sparkling wines. Toasty and bready on the nose, the wine has appealing hints of apples on the palate. The lively bubbles give it a creamy texture on the mid-palate; but the wine finishes dry. 90.

Blue Mountain Brut Rosé 2010 ($32.90). The Blue Mountain Rosé usually sells out in a flash. It is a lovely sparking wine, appealing to the eye and, with delightful strawberry and raspberry notes, satisfying on the palate. 91.

Krāzē Legz Vineyard and Winery, the first winery in Kaleden, opened in 2010. Gerry Thygesen, who runs the winery with his wife, Sue, is the current president of the Okanagan Falls Winery Association. Since last year, the winery has released its wines under a new label, Skaha Vineyard.

Skaha Vineyard Pinot Blanc 2014 ($18.95). Crisp and refreshing, this wine’s flavours of apples and melons just explode on the palate. 90.

Skaha Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay 2014 ($19.95). Like the Pinot Blanc, the flavours have a laser-like focus and a pristine freshness. This wine has notes of apple and citrus in the aroma and on the palate. 91.

Skaha Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2012 ($25.85). This wine was aged 20 months in French oak, which accounts for the polished texture. The wine has aromas of blackberry and mocha leading to spicy, brambleberry flavours enhanced with a touch of vanilla. 91.

Skaha Vineyard Impulsion Reserve 2012 ($23.85). This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. It also spent 2o months in oak. The wine has aromas and flavours of black currants, cherries and vanilla with notes of mocha and coffee on the finish. The long ripe tannins add to a generous texture and finish. 91.

Liquidity Wines opened in 2012. The winery has an elegant wine shop and bistro, with a shaded patio on which one could doze through an afternoon with a nice wine in the ice bucket.

Liquidity Pinot Gris 2014 ($19.90). The wine has aromas and flavours of pear and apple with a backbone of minerality. 89.

Liquidity Chardonnay 2012 ($23.90). This lightly oaked Chardonnay has aromas and flavours of citrus, with buttery and spicy tones. 90.

 Liquidity Merlot 2012 ($25.90). This is a tasty Merlot, supple on the palate with flavours of black cherry and black currants. 89.

Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery has now been open 10 years. Jim and Leslie D’Andrea are Calgarians but in transition to the Okanagan. Leslie now lives in the new house on the property while Jim splits his time between a Calgary law office and the vineyard. Phil Soo, a consulting winemaker, makes their wines.

Noble Ridge Pinot Grigio 2013 ($19.90). This winery is one of the few in the Okanagan still using the Italian varietal name rather than the French. The wine tastes good in either language. This has aromas and flavours of pear and apples, with spice and herbs on the finish. 90.

Noble Ridge Reserve Chardonnay 2011 ($29.90). This is a big, mouth-filling Chardonnay with flavours of tangerine, ripe apples and the nutty/buttery/ spicy flavours of well-integrated oak. 90.

Noble Ridge Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 ($29.90). Big and bold best describes the Noble Ridge Pinot Noir, always a powerful wine. It has aromas and flavours of cherry and strawberry, with earthy chocolate notes on the finish. 91.

Noble Ridge Reserve Meritage 2012 ($29.90). The specifications are not on line but this is almost certainly a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a judicious amount of barrel aging. There is a touch of oak in the aroma. On the palate, there is a rich basket of flavours, including black cherry, vanilla, black currant, dark chocolate and espresso coffee. 91.

Pentâge Winery, which opened in 2003, is actually within the southern limits of Penticton but it is a better marketing fit with the Okanagan Falls wineries and with the Naramata group.

Pentâge Roussanne Marsanne Viognier 2011 ($27). This wine shows intriguing tension on the palate, with flavours of stone fruit and with a spine of minerals. With a dry finish, it is a very good Rhone blend. 90.

Pentâge Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2012 ($21). This is a complex dry white, beginning with herbal aromas. On the palate, there are herbal and nutty flavours, along with notes of lime. 90.

Pentâge Rosé 2013 ($NA). This is a Zinfandel rosé for serious rosé drinkers. The colour is deep, the weight is good and the finish is dry. It is packed with flavours of plum, cherry and blackberry. 91.

Pentâge Gamay 2013 ($21). Another taster in the room directed me to this wine. Recommendations are always good. This is a structured red with a delicious core of earthy, cherry flavours. 90.

Pentâge 2010 ($30). This is a blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Syrah and 1% Gamay. The chewy ripe tannins give it a generous texture there are flavours of black cherry, dark chocolate and vanilla. 91.

See Ya Later Ranch has been opened under several owners and names since 1986. The current name celebrates the legend that a long-time ago owner of the property was abandoned by his wife, who left a note saying “see ya later”. The more prosaic story is that he signed his letters that way. Whatever the truth, the wines are good and surprisingly inexpensive.

See Ya Later Ranch Gewürztraminer 2014 ($14). This vineyard here is said to be North American’s biggest single block of Gewürztraminer. True or not, it is one of the best. This is an appealing wine with aromas and flavours of spicy grapefruit. A dash of Ehrenfelser in the blend adds flesh and tropical fruit flavours. 90.

See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2014 ($15). The winery is practically giving away a very fine barrel-fermented Chardonnay. The wine has aromas of apple and pear, with a hint of cloves to light up the mid-palate. The finish is fresh and crisp. 91.

See Ya Later Ranch Ping 2012 ($22). This is a blend of 55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 18% Cabernet Franc, aged 19 months in French (60%) and American oak barrels. A generously textured wine, it begins with aromas of plums and cherries which are echoed in the flavours, along with vanilla and espresso coffee. 90.

Synchromesh Wines, which opened in 2011, has developed a reputation for its Riesling table wines.  At the recent show, three single vineyard Rieslings from the Naramata Bench were offered in addition to the winery’s budget Riesling.

Synchromesh Riesling 2014 ($17). This is the winery’s 1,000-case entry level Riesling that is also available in kegs for restaurants. It is a tangy, refreshing wine with lime and lemon aromas and flavours. It is balanced to finish dry but is not austere. 89.

Synchromesh Thorny Vines Riesling 2014 ($22). This wine offers intense aromas and flavours of lemon and lime, with lively acidity and a long finish. 90.

Synchromesh Bob Hancock Vineyard Riesling 2014 ($22). This is another wine with vibrant acidity, flavours of lime and lemon and a nice spine of minerality. 91.

Synchromesh Four Shadows Riesling 2014 ($22). This wine is somewhat restrained on the nose, likely because it is still getting over bottle shock. It has appealing flavours of lime and grapefruit with good minerality. 90.

Synchromesh Cachola Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013 ($19). This is a Cabernet Franc for Pinot Noir lovers, with its light color, silky tannins and flavours of strawberry and blackberry. The wine is appealing even though it is hardly a mainstream Cabernet Franc. 88.

Synchromesh Tertre Rouge 2012 ($39.90). This is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Firm on the palate, the wine has flavours of plum, black currant, coffee and dark chocolate. It has a core brimming with fruit that will develop superbly in bottle over the next three years. 90-92.

Topshelf Winery is one of two wineries in Kaleden. It also opened in 2011. The labels are all built around hockey jargon. Does it get any more Canadian?

Topshelf Slapshot Chardonnay 2013 ($18). This is an unoaked Chardonnay. The wine is crisp and refreshing with flavours of apples and melons. 88.

Topshelf Point Shot Pinot Gris 2013 $18). This wine is packed with flavours – apple, citrus and pear – with good minerality and a crisp dry finish. 89.

Topshelf Over The Top Merlot 2013 ($20). Here is a juicy and approachable wine, with jammy flavours of black currant and black cherry. 89.

Topshelf Hat Trick Meritage 2013 ($33). This is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Dark in colour and firm in texture, it has aromas of red fruits with a hint of violets. On the palate, there are spicy flavours of black currant, coffee and chocolate. 90.

Wild Goose Vineyards opened in 1990. At the time, a government official told them they would be lucky to sell 1,000 cases. This has become of the Okanagan’s best and most successful wineries, both for the quality of the wines and for the warm welcome visitors always get from the Kruger family, the owners.

Wild Goose Pinot Gris 2013 ($18). Pinot Gris is one of those whites that tastes better a year after release. This wine has rich flavours of peach and ripe apples. 89.

Wild Goose Gewürztraminer 2013 ($18.50). The same goes for an extra year of bottle age for Goo. The spice and grapefruit aromas and flavours are intense and the wine has a long finish. 91.

Wild Goose Red Horizon Meritage 2012 ($22). This is the second vintage of the winery’s Merlot-anchored Bordeaux blend. It begins with aromas of black cherry, cassis and vanilla, leading to flavours of cherries and black currants. The long, ripe tannins give this wine a rich and satisfying texture. 90.