Vasanti wines: bold and satisfying

Photo: Sidhu family (l-r): Vik, Davinder, Harb and Gordie (Melissa Bexton Photography)

The current releases from Vasanti Estate Winery, which opened a tasting room last year near Oliver, are among the boldest and most satisfying red wines from the Okanagan. Grab them while you can because the 2024 freeze event has interrupted production from this aspiring producer.

Vasant is owned and operated by the Sidhu family. The winery name is derived from a Punjabi concept meaning new beginnings and renewal. It was inspired by family scion Harb Sidhu’s decision in 1980 to come to the Okanagan from India. Here, he established himself in agriculture, first with an orchard and later with vineyards. The family now has about 20 acres of vineyard in the Oliver/Osoyoos area of the Okanagan.

“We three brothers decided it was a good time to continue on his legacy and start the winery,” I was told last year by Davinder Sidhu, who was born in 1988 and is the middle of the brothers. “We had always dreamt of a winery when we were younger. It has a sentimental value to us because we all grew up as kids at the location where the winery will be.” The brothers all have careers outside the winery. Davinder is an optometrist. Gordie, the oldest brother, is a financial planner while Vik, the youngest brother, is trained as a biologist. Mentored by Jason Parkes, the winery’s consulting winemaker, Vik is assuming many of the winery’s viticultural and cellar duties. The Jason Parkes winemaking style is big and bold.

Unfortunately for the Sidhu family, the hard winter in early 2024 has delivered a setback after such a promising start. “As per the 2024 vintage, we had a lot of red inventory in the cellar from 2023 so we will make do,” Davinder says. “We have about 150 cases of a Cabernet Franc / Cabernet Sauvignon blend coming that was co-fermented. This wine turned out spectacular and our winemaking team was very excited about it. We plan on leaving it for 15-18 months to gain even more complexity.” Commenting on the 2024 damage to the Sidhu vineyards, he continues: “We replanted some Syrah and Cabernet Franc last year and had to rip out a lot of Merlot. We are planting some Riesling this year in place of the Merlot and will be adding more Merlot in a different part of our Oliver vineyard likely next year.” Vasanti did not import any Washington State grapes in 2024. But the family seems to have the resources and the determination to hang in there and fulfill the promise of the excellent wines released to date.

Here are my notes.

Vasanti Merlot 2022 ($34.99 for 190 cases). This is Vasanti’s second Merlot release. The grapes are from Vasanti’s Paradise Vineyard. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel and aged 21 months in new and neutral American oak. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark fruits which are echoed on the palate, mingled with a hint of blueberry. 90.

Vasanti Cabernet Franc 2022 ($41.99 for 112 cases). This mouth filling wine, Vasanti’s second release, was aged 16 months in new American oak. The wine has aromas and flavours of dark fruits mingled with blackberry, raspberry and spice. 92.

Vasanti Syrah 2021 ($54.99 for 131 cases). Vasanti’s debut Syrah, this delicious wine is a wine club exclusive. It was aged 33 months in new American oak. It is a bold, ripe wine with aromas and flavours of dark cherry, plum, cassis, black licorice, mocha and a hint of pepper. 93.

Hester Creek releases its Columbia Valley wines

Photo: Hester Creek's Mark Sheridan

Hester Creek Estate Winery near Oliver is one of the first Okanagan wineries to release 2024 vintage wines made with imported grapes. The quality of the wines should comfort all consumers who want to continue supporting their favourite wineries as they navigate the crisis caused by the almost total destruction of the 2024 grape crop in the Okanagan and Similkameen by sharp freeze in the early winter last year.

Many BC wineries turned to vineyards in Washington, Oregon, California and even Ontario for grapes. It was particularly fortunate that Washington had a massive surplus of well-grown grapes. Hester Creek was among the earliest of the BC wineries that contracted Washington grapes. “Located just south of the border, the proximity of the Columbia Valley … allowed me, a viticulturist by trade, to meet regularly with the growers,” writes Mark Sheridan, the president of Hester Creek. “I was able to personally choose the varietals best suited to the collection, which vineyards they were grown in, and supervise the growth of the vines for every stage of the growing season. The result was premium-quality grapes for our winemakers to craft with.” That supply of grapes enabled Hester Creek to keep its winemaking team busy throughout the vintage rather than laying off talent that would be hard to replace.

Mark continues: “… Purchasing grapes is allowing us to stay economically viable so we can continue to support British Columbia’s local wine industry. … We are able to maintain contracts with our local growers. [And] by putting wine in bottles, we are solidifying partnerships with businesses like Okanagan Label & Print and Artus Bottling – both located in Penticton.” He adds: “We still have a long-term commitment to supporting the BC VQA. Not only will our 2022 vintage of Okanagan VQA red wines be released in 2025, but we are hopeful that our vines and those of our growers will make a full recovery and allow us to return to 100% BC VQA in our portfolio.”

It is obvious that most Okanagan and Similkameen vineyards (some of which had to be replanted) will not be able to produce full crops for a few more years. The BC government will be asked to extend the regulatory waivers that are allowing the 2024 imported grape wines to benefit from mark-up exemptions normally reserved for VQA wines. There is a risk that might not happen. Premier David Eby, who has responded to the Trump tariff war with remarkably hostility, has said the concessions on making wine with imported grapes might be a one-time thing. Fortunately, his agriculture minister seems to be taking a more measured approach. Hindering access to American grapes would almost certainly put a number of BC wineries out of business. Trump’s tariff warriors would not even notice self-inflicted damage in BC.

Here are my notes on the first four Hester Creek wines from the Columbia Valley.

Hester Creek Pinot Gris 2024 ($19.99). The grapes for this wine came from a Yakima Valley vineyard. Harvested by hand, the fruit was transported the same day in temperature-controlled trucks to Hester Creek. After crush, the wine was fermented cool for 20 days and aged four months in stainless steel before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of apple, pear and stone fruits which are echoed on the palate. The moderate 12.5% alcohol keeps the wine light and refreshing, with a crisp finish. 90.

Hester Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($19.99). The grapes for this wine came from a vineyard in the White Bluffs AVA (American Viticultural Area) in the Columbia Valley. The hand-harvested fruit was delivered the same day to the Hester Creek winery. There, after two-days of cold settling, the wine was fermented cool for 21 days and then aged four months in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of lime and Meyer lemon, which is echoed on the palate. The lively citrus flavours mingle with herbaceous notes. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.

Hester Creek Viognier 2024 ($23.99). The grapes for this wine came from a vineyard in the Columbia Valley’s Goose Gap AVA. The hand-harvested fruit was taken to Hester Creek in temperature-controlled trucks. Whole berries went into the fermentation tanks where, after two days of cold-settling, the wine was fermented for 20 days and then aged five months before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of peach and apricot, leading to flavours of pear, quince and stone fruits. The texture is mouth-filling and the finish is long. 91.

Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc 2024 ($22.99). The grapes for this wine are from the Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs in the Columbia Valley. When the fruit arrived at Hester Creek, the bunches were hand-sorted, destemmed and allowed a three-day cold soak on the skins before a 21-day fermentation and four months aging in stainless steel. The relatively long skin contact extracted a deep ruby hue, darker than is currently fashionable for rosé wines. The wine begins with aromas of cherry and strawberry which are echoed the palate. A touch of residual sugar broadens the texture. 88.

Blasted Church discounts Cabernet Franc - briefly

Photo: Blasted Church winemaker Evan Saunders

In a recent email, Blasted Church Vineyards offered a short-term discount on one of its popular reds for a strange reason: the staff like it! “As wine industry people, we are often asked, ‘Which wine is your favourite?’,” the email reads. “This never returns a completely unbiased answer since everyone has their favourites. However, when all of us at Blasted Church are gathered together to raise a glass, the most consistently opened bottle is our Cabernet Franc.” The winery’s 2021 Cabernet Franc sells regularly for $384 a case, or $32 a bottle. That price was dropped to $324 a case (even less for wine club members) for a week in the middle of March.

In the 2021 vintage, the winery produced 451 cases of Cabernet Franc. That is hardly a huge quantity of wine. I am more surprised that it is not sold out than I am to see it being discounted moderately. The winery often has end-of-vintage discounts although this seems not to be the case here. Cabernet Franc is a varietal that had been gaining in popularity among Okanagan wines before the 2024 freeze. Once conditions for grape-growing are back to normal and the vines are again productive, the varietal should resume its rising popularity.

Cabernet Franc was among the vinifera varietals planted in the Okanagan when the vineyards began the big switch from hybrids to vinifera in the 199os. Most producers incorporated it in blends with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the rare early proponents of Cabernet Franc as a standalone varietal was Tinhorn Creek Estate Winery. The winery had planted an extensive acreage in preference to later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon. Subsequently, Tinhorn Creek add Cabernet Sauvignon to its vineyard. However, Cabernet Franc was practically the winery’s flagship red.

While Cabernet Sauvignon gained ground in the first two decades of this century, Cabernet Franc steady rise in popularity continued. By 2023, Cabernet Franc tonnage in the Okanagan and Similkameen vineyards was in third place at 20% (behind Merlot and Pinot Noir) while Cabernet Sauvignon was fourth (16%). It is hard to say what the numbers will look like as vineyards are replanted or rejuvenated after the devastation of the 2024 vintage. I think Cabernet Franc will still be ahead of Cabernet Sauvignon, both because it ripens a week or so earlier and because the flavours are so appealing, as the Blasted Church crew have found.

As it happens, Blasted Church recently sent me a sample of the Cabernet Franc, along with the 2021 Small Blessings. The latter is winemaker Evan Saunder’s exceptional blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache. The winery made 300 cases of this. None of those varietals did well in the 2024 freeze and I would not expect them to be widely replanted. Fans of red Rhône wines would be advised to pick up this wine if they can still find a few bottles. Here are my notes on the two wines.

Blasted Church Cabernet Franc 2021 ($32 for 451 cases). The grapes came from two Osoyoos vineyards. Whole berries went into the fermentation tanks where there was a total of 21 days of skin contact. The wine spent 18 months in French oak (35% new). In the glass, this is a bold and satisfying wine, with aromas and flavours of cherry and blackberry mingled with a hint of cranberry and a savoury finish. 91.

Blasted Church Small Blessings MSG 2021 ($40 for 300 cases). The blend is 35% Mourvèdre, 33% Syrah and 32% Grenache. The fruit came from Osoyoos and Oliver vineyards and was co-fermented and aged 16 months in barrel and puncheon (seasoned and neutral). Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of plum, dark cherry and white pepper. The palate is rich, with flavours of plum, fig, black cherry and pepper. 93.

Brazil’s Miolo winery shows well at Vancouver International Wine Festival

Photo: Miolo export manager Lucio Motta

For at least the second year, Brazil’s Miolo Wine Group was among the wineries at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival. Consumers are more likely to look for Argentina and Chile when searching for wines from South America since producers from those countries have been marketing their wines in this region for the best part of 30 years. I have no idea why Brazil, a large producer of wine and spirits, has not been banging the doors down as well in this market. But I am glad to see Miolo getting a foothold in the market because the wines solid and reasonably priced. Miolo has its excellent Alvarinho in Everything Wine and likely has other wines in private wine stores. So far, it has not landed a listing in the BC Liquor Distribution Branch (which lists only a gin and two fortified products from Brazil).

Miolo is Brazil’s largest wine group. The business was established in 1897 in southern Brazil by Guiseppe Miolo, an immigrant from Italy. A family member is still involved with making the wines. The original property has grown to 100 hectares of vines. Today, Miolo Group has 1,000 hectares of vineyard across four regions of Brazil. The group also recently acquired a vineyard and winery in Mendoza, the major Argentinian winegrowing region. While four of Miolo’s wineries are in conventional South American winegrowing latitudes, a fifth is in tropical northern Brazil where the climate and irrigation enable two harvests each year. Half the wine made here is sparkling wine and grape juice while the other half is distilled. This is not unusual in Brazil, which has wine production all over this large country. Miolo’s other Brazil wineries are in the southern part of the country, near Uruguay (where good wines are also produced). One of the Miolo wineries, Almadén, was started in 1973 by a winery of that name from California. Subsequently, it was acquired by Miolo.

At the Wine Festival, Miolo’s export manager, Lucio Motta, showed wines just from the group’s southern wineries. Consumers who find these wines in private stores will be pleased with the quality. Here are my notes. Prices are from the festival’s price guide.

Miolo Seivel Winery Brut NV ($20). This sparkling wine is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is crisp and fresh, with aromas and flavours of apple mingled with a note of minerality. 88.

Miolo Seival Winery Chardonnay 2022 ($14.99). This is a lean, fruit-driven Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of citrus and apple. 88.

Miolo Single Vineyard Alvarinho 2022 ($26.98 in Everything Wine). This white varietal is more often seen from wineries in Portugal. This is a crisp wine but one where six months in oak has fleshed out the texture and framed the flavours of citrus and stone fruit. 90.

Miolo Single Vineyard Touriga Nacional 2022 ($22.99). This is another Portuguese varietal often grown for Port. This wine, which was aged in oak for 12 months, is a bold and dark red, with aromas of dark fruits and flavours of plum and black licorice. 91.

Miolo Lote 43 2022 ($33.99). This wine was named for the original plot where the founder established his first vineyard. The wine is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in oak. This is a full-bodied red with aromas and flavours of dark cherry, blackberry, cloves and plum. 91.

Lakeside Cellars has 2024 vintage

Photo: Danielle and Ricky Dhaliwal

Rare among Okanagan wineries, Lakeside Cellars in Osoyoos made wine last fall with grapes from its own vineyard, where 2024 production was about 40% of normal. Lakeside’s good fortune is because the estate vineyard has a westward-facing slope almost down to Osoyoos Lake. Because mild weather preceded last winter’s killing frost, the lake had not yet frozen over. The shallow lake is often iced over by Christmas. But the open water last winter moderated the temperatures in the nearby vineyards.

Lakeside’s owners, Ricky and Danielle Dhaliwal, supplemented their crop with Washington State grapes, as did many other wineries. But the moderating impact of the open lake, limited the bud damage in their own vineyard, enabling their vines to produce as well. The photo is of Cabernet Sauvignon on the vines last September. Ricky and Danielle showed off wines from previous vintages at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival. The 2024 wines, of course, are not ready yet. Lakeshore Cellars opened in 2019 on an historic property that Ricky’s parents, orchardists Harbans and Harkesh Dhaliwal, had purchased in 2015. The 14-acre property once was the homestead of Judge J.C. Haynes, the first customs agent and a major rancher in the South Okanagan. The elegant 10-room house he built for his family in 1882 had fallen into disrepair by the time the Dhaliwals began developing the winery. Timbers salvaged from the house have been used in the elegant and spacious new wine shop and tasting room. There were Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc vines, planted in 1998 and 1999, already growing here. Ricky expanded the plantings to include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Malbec, Cinsault and, more recently, Orange Muscat.

Photo: Cabernet Sauvignon on the vine in 2024

Lakeside Bubbles 2022 ($25.49). This sparking wine is made with Sauvignon Blanc, an expressive varietal. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel and aged six months on the lees before the wine was carbonated. It is a refreshing wine with aromas and flavours of lime. 89.

Lakeside Portage White 2023 ($22.99). This is a blend of 56% Sauvignon Blanc, 32% Orange Muscat and 12% Muscat Blanc. This is a fresh and crisp wine with aromas and flavours of grapefruit, apple and quince. 90.

Lakeside Rosé 2023 ($24.49). This wine is made with Cinsault grapes which Ricky planted (2 ¼ acres) specifically to make rosé. It was a good decision. The wine has an appealing rose petal hue. It begins with aromas of strawberry leading to flavours of raspberry and cherry. The finish is dry. 90.

Lakeside Cabernet Franc 2020 ($32). This is a full-bodied red. It begins with aromas of blackberries and dark cherries. A touch of oak on the palate supports flavours of dark cherry, plum and chocolate. 90.

Lakeside Provenir 2019 ($44). The blend for this reserve red is 34% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc, and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was aged in French oak for 24 months. The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits leading to flavours of dark cherry mingled with plum, leather and oak. 92.