Clos du Soleil’s rosé captures the sun

Photo: Clos du Soleil's Spencer Massie

During the several vintages in which Clos du Soleil has been releasing a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé, wine critics including me have been just knocked out by the wine.

Well, the winery hits it out of the park again with its 2013 rosé. Its other new releases also are impressive.

This small winery, which opened in 2008, is a rising star in the Similkameen Valley. Credit goes to a well-managed vineyard as well as to the winery’s exceptional winemaker, Ann Sperling.

The winery is owned by several couples who all have day jobs in various businesses and professions. But they also share a love for wines imbued with the values of Bordeaux.

Spencer Massie, the lead partner, developed a knowledge of wine when he was an officer in the Canadian navy. Aside from the port drinking tradition inherited from the Royal Navy, Spencer assignments occasionally provided opportunity to visit wine regions. He still fondly recalls a 1984 vacation that involved hiking through the vineyards of Bordeaux.

One of those formative visits may have been the occasion in 2002 when he and Bonnie Henry, his wife, ran the Marathon du Médoc. The sponsors of this Bordeaux run have wine stations along the route. Naturally, it attracts about 8,000 runners, passing through a countryside that sounds like a wine list. The next one will take place September 14 this year.

“It is a legitimate marathon and it is just a great experience,” Spencer once told me. “They say the more times you run it, the slower you get.”

He was then living in Toronto. However, the year after he and Bonnie moved to Vancouver in 2005, he found partners and a vineyard site near Keremeos. The vineyard was planted in 2007 entirely to Bordeaux red and white varieties.

As the vineyard geared up for production, Clos Du Soleil established its label with wines from purchased grapes. The winery has since made a transition largely to estate-grown fruit, although it also has a “Grower’s Series” label for wines made with grapes from elsewhere in the Similkameen.

Spencer benefitted from serendipity when he went looking for a winemaker: he discovered that a high school colleague, Ann Sperling, had developed a national reputation as a winemaker.

Ann began her winemaking career in 1987 in BC and then moved to Ontario in 1995. Spencer had lost touch with her after he left Kelowna, where he and Ann had been classmates.

“Then I saw an article in the Globe that she was Canadian winemaker of the year,” he recalls. “Bonnie and I were then living in Toronto. We did one of our annual runs down to Niagara for wine and I called Ann out of the blue, and said hey, Spencer Massie from Kelowna, do you remember me?”

It seemed she did. When Spencer was launching Clos du Soleil, it coincided with Ann’s launch of her family winery in Kelowna, Sperling Vineyards. She had time to take on Clos du Soleil, where she makes polished wines in the French style admired by the owners.

Here are notes on the current releases.

Clos du Soleil Grower’s Series Middle Bench Vineyard Pinot Blanc 2013 ($19.90 for 320 cases). This is the best Pinot Blanc yet from this winery. It is a wine with generous fruit aromas and flavours. The aromas are like walking through an orchard when the trees are flowering. On the palate, there are flavours of apples, honeydew and cantaloupe. The finish lingers. 92.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2013 ($19.90 for 450 cases). This is 88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sémillon. The back labels discloses that this was fermented in French oak puncheons; it does not appear to have been aged in barrel because the wine is quite fruit forward, to its benefit. It begins with aromas of lime and grapefruit. Those flavours are delivered to the palate, along with herbal notes. The  finish is refreshingly tangy and crisp. 90

 Clos du Soleil Capella 2012 ($24.90 for 220 cases). This is 92% Sauvignon Blanc, 8% Sémillon. This is a much more intense expression of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit on a background of herbs and honey. A portion of this was fermented in an oak puncheon which, no doubt, contributed to the generous texture. On the dry finish, there is a mouthwatering tang that leaves the palate refreshed. 91.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2013 ($19.90 for 740 cases). Made entirely with Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine just explodes from the glass with dramatic aromas of red currant and strawberry. On the palate, there are flavours of cherry, plum and mulberry. While the finish is dry, the berry flavours are so intense as to seem almost sweet. This rosé will strut across hundreds of picnics. 91.

 Clos du Soleil Signature 2011 ($39.90 for 225 cases). This is 44% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. The sad news is that this is sold out; it is as fine a Bordeaux blend as any B.C. producer made in the 2011 vintage. It has aromas of black currant and vanilla, with a lovely core of sweet berry flavours, including cassias and cherry. On the finish, there is a touch of cola and chocolate. 91.

Naramata Bench tasting 2014 and ownership changes

Photo: Lake Breeze winemaker Garron Elmes

 At the recent Naramata Bench Wineries Association tasting, it was not only the wines that created a buzz. There was also the news that two of the wineries have new owners: Township 7 Vineyards and Bench 1775.
There is not much more detail to report because the new owners, who are leaving the current management and winemakers in place, are secretive. Subject to confirmation, I am told that both sets of owners are Chinese.

 The ownership at Township 7 has been in transition for several months. John Tietzen, one of the partners, sold his interest early this year. At the time, I was told that Mike Raffan, the other partner, had retained his interest. I have been unable to reach Mike to determine whether he also sold his shares now. However, I have been able to confirm that Mike remains the general manager at Township 7 and Bradley Cooper remains the winemaker.

 The ownership change at Bench 1775 was more unexpected. The sale involves both the Naramata Road winery, formerly known as Soaring Eagle, as well as the sister company, Icewine producer Paradise Ranch. Both were controlled by Vancouver lawyer and real estate businessman Jim Stewart. Last year, he brought viticulturist Valeria Tait on board as a partner at Bench 1775. The new owners are keeping her in place as the general manager.

 Little is known about the new owners, who prefer to remain private. Of Chinese origin, they have lived in Vancouver for about eight years. They have been involved in exporting British Columbia wine and bring a serious knowledge of the industry to Bench 1775.

 These are not the only wineries on the bench with Chinese ownership. Lang Vineyards was acquired in 2011 by Yong Wang, said to be a Chinese mining executive. He has also a very low profile. The winery is managed by Mike Lang, the nephew of the founder, and Lawrence Herder is the current winemaker.

 From the point of view of the wine consumer and wine tourists, these three wineries all are operating as business as usual. If I were investing in an Okanagan winery, I might also consider the Naramata Bench. The association has 24 member wineries and there are perhaps another six, all concentrated within 20 miles of each other. This is an absolute magnet for wine touring. Some wineries are so close to each other that it is easy to walk from one to another.

 It helps that every tasting room is good wine. Here are notes on some of those I was able to sample at the recent tasting.

Black Widow Gewürztraminer 2013 ($22). This is a deliciously dry Gewürztraminer, with spice, herbs and grapefruit on the palate. 90.

Black Widow Spiderling Red 2013 ($22). The wine is named for very young spiders, getting across the message that this fruity Merlot is meant to be soft and drinkable early. The black cherry flavours are appealing. 88.

Black Widow Phobia 2012 ($27). This is 80% Syrah and 20% Merlot. The Syrah’s rich plum and earth flavours blend well with the bright flavours of the Merlot. A touch of pepper on the finish ties it up nicely. 91.

Black Widow Red Back 2012 ($32). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah had 17 months of barrel aging before being bottled. The wine has notes of vanilla, black cherry and plum. 91.

D’Angelo Winery Tempranillo Miscella 2010 ($18). This is a blend in which the Tempranillo is supported by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is a delicious wine, with notes of cherry and blueberry. 88.

D’Angelo Winery Sette Coppa 2010 ($25). This Bordeaux blend is the winery’s top red. It is a concentrated wine with notes of black currant, plum and cola flavours. 90.

Hillside Winery Gewürztraminer 2013 ($18.99). Slightly off-dry, this wine begins with spicy aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of pink grapefruit and kiwi fruit, with hints of ginger on the finish. 90.

 Hillside Winery Rose 2012 ($18.99). This is a tasty blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Winemaker Kathy Malone calls it “a dangerous rosé” because it is so easy to drink. There are aromas of blueberry and plum, leading to a fruit bowl of flavours: cherry, blueberry and raspberry. 90.

Hillside Winery Cabernet Franc 2012 ($24.99). This wine has the varietal’s classic brambly aromas and flavours, including raspberry, cranberry and cherry, with a touch of pepper on the finish. 89.

Hillside Winery Pinot Noir 2011 ($24.99). Made with Naramata Bench fruit, this is a fine, concentrated, yet silky Pinot Noir with notes of cherry and strawberry that are framed by spice on the finish. 90.

Howling Bluff Summa Quies Sémillon 2013 ($25 for 23 cases). This delicious white likely will be available only at the winery because of its limited production. It has lime and grapefruit in the aroma and palate, with herbal notes. The wine manages to be crisp and refreshing but also to be unctuous. 91.

Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2013 ($18.90 for 300 cases). This is a 74%/26% blend of the varietals. The wine has aromas and flavours of lime with a crisp, refreshing finish that lingers. 91.

Howling Bluff Reserve Pinot Noir Summa Quies Vineyard 2011 ($35 for 411 cases). The aromas and flavours have an appealing kiss of strawberry and raspberry subtly framed with oak. The texture is silky and full on the finish. 90-92.

Howling Bluff Sin Cera 2010 ($28.90 for 575 cases). This is the final vintage of this Bordeaux blend because most of the Bordeaux varietals have now been replaced with Pinot Noir (some Merlot remains and will be released on its own). This is terrific way to end this label. The wine is concentrated, with flavours of cassis, pomegranate and black cherry. The ripe tannins give this a long, long finish. 91.

Lake Breeze Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2013 ($19). Lake Breeze winemaker Garron Elmes has elevated this varietal to an absolutely first class white wine. This wine is crisp and refreshing, with green apple flavours and with the mineral backbone reflecting the mature vines. 90.

Lake Breeze Spice Jar 2013 ($19). This is a blend of Gewürztraminer (55%), Viognier (30%) and Schönburger (15%). “I decided there is too much Gewürztraminer out there,” says Garron, who stopped making it as single varietal in 2012. This aromatic wine has spicy aromas and flavours of grapefruit and apricot. Viognier adds a focussed and firm texture. 90.

Lake Breeze Meritage 2011 ($20). This good value red has all five Bordeaux varieties in the blend. The wine has aromas and flavours of black currant, blackberry and raspberry, with an easy drinking texture. 89

Lake Breeze Tempest 2010 ($40). This is the winery’s red icon. This is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% each Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It is a bold, full-flavoured red with notes of black currant, coffee and chocolate. The wine, which aged 15 months in new French oak before bottling, is definitely worthy of aging at least five more years. 91.

La Frenz Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22). This wine rivals some of New Zealand’s best, with its zesty aromas and flavours of lime and grapefruit. 91.

La Frenz Winery Viognier 2013 ($22). This wine delivers a fruit bowl of aromas and flavours, including apricots, peaches and mangoes. 91.

La Frenz Winery Pinot Noir 2012 Amos Vineyard ($21.90). There is no information on this yet on the winery’s website. I suspect is from young vines that are delivering terrific feminine charm in this wine, with its aromas and flavours of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. 90

La Frenz Winery Montage 2011 ($22). This blend of Shiraz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon aims to serious but immediately drinkable. This wine shows flavours dark cherry, blueberry and plum, with chocolate and vanilla on the finish. 90.

La Frenz Winery Merlot 2011 ($26). Juicy and supple, the wine delivers black currant, blueberry and plum with a long finish.

Moraine Estate Winery Viognier 2013 ($16.50). This crisp but concentrated white has aromas and flavours of pineapple and stone fruit around a spine of minerality. 89.

Moraine Estate Winery Cliffhanger White 2013 ($15.50). The label is for an ever-changing blend. In 2013 the varietals in the blend are Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. The wine has a generous texture, with aromas and flavours of pear, apple and peach. There is an appealing spice on the long finish. 90.

Moraine Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2012 ($22.59 for 582 cases). Made from relatively young vines, this is Moraine’s first Pinot Noir. The varietal is a specialty with New Zealand-trained winemaker Jacqueline Kemp. This is a pretty wine, with notes of cherry framed by lightly toasty oak; the silky texture is just beginning to develop. 88-90.

Moraine Estate Winery Cliffhanger Red 2013 ($17.50). A blend of Merlot and Malbec, it was made to be easy to drink. Juicy in texture, it has flavours of black cherry and chocolate. 89.

 Moraine Estate Winery Malbec 2012 ($22.50 for 200 cases). Medium-bodied and juicy in texture, this wine has plum and cherry flavours with pepper and spice on the finish. 89.

 Moraine Estate Winery Syrah 2012 ($23.50). This wine is surprisingly soft and quaffable, with hints of plum, mulberry and chocolate and a light touch of pepper. 89.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2012 ($19 for 483 cases). The wine begins with aromas of pear and honeydew, leading to flavours of pear and cantaloupe. 88.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Pinot Blanc 2012 ($19 for 433 cases). Let me quote my review from last year: “This has a freshness that recalls Sauvignon Blanc, with lightly grassy aromas, flavours of apples and limes and a lively, refreshing acidity. 90.”

Upper Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay 2012 ($25 for 302 cases). This wine delivers buttery aromas and citrus flavours, along with papaya and mango. 88.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Riesling 2012 ($22 for 225 cases). This wine has intense aromas and flavours of lime, lemon and gooseberry, with a developing note of petrol in the aroma. 90.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Rosé 2012 ($19 for 332 cases). This is a rare (for the Okanagan) Zweigelt rosé. The appeal begins with a dark colour and aromas of rhubarb and rose hip. On the palate, there are juicy flavours of strawberry and cherry. 89.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2012 ($27.90 for 331 cases). Fourteen months on oak have begun to burnish the texture of this wine. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry. This vintage is almost sold out. 89.

Upper Bench Estate Winery Upper Bench Red 2012 ($19 for 640 cases). This is an intriguing blend of Zweigelt (70%), Merlot (20%) and Pinot Meunier (10%). It is an easy-drinking red with aromas of blueberry and cherry that are echoed on the palate. 89.

Quails' Gate's 2013 whites are a touch drier

 Photo: Winemaker Nikki Callaway (courtesy Quails' Gate)

The latest releases from Quails’ Gate – whites and a rosé from the 2013 vintage – are the first from Nikki Callaway since she became the new winemaker last summer.

It seems she has a drier style of winemaking than Grant Stanley, her predecessor. The difference is slight, but not imperceptible. After tasting these wines, I confirmed my impression by comparing the specifications of the same wines from the previous vintage.

Perhaps it is just an academic exercise. Quails’ Gate consumers might not even notice. The wines still taste very good.

Here is the winery’s biography of Nikki:

Nikki Callaway was born in Calgary, but she lived and travelled in Europe, the Middle East, and South Africa before coming home to Canada and joining BC’s Quails’ Gate as winemaker.

Callaway’s father was a physician who worked in various countries, which gave his daughter a taste for diverse cultures. She says that an appreciation for wine was always encouraged when she was growing up, despite the fact that it was sometimes more than a little difficult to obtain.

Callaway attended high school in Dubai, but returned to Canada to earn a degree in Biology at the University of Victoria. Until this point she had been considering following in her father’s footsteps and studying medicine. He advised her to find her passion, and she decided to pursue winemaking instead.

Once she had chosen her path, she got on the fast track for a top-quality education and corresponding experience. She worked harvests and was a cellar master in Bordeaux and Southern France, and completed a Diplôme National d’Oenologue at Université Bordeaux II. She followed her work into South Africa with a position at Waterford Estate winery, where she learned about southern hemisphere winemaking. Along the way she developed a reputation for having an excellent work ethic, and repeatedly proved that she had the talent and the drive to become a world-class winemaker.

Nikki returned to Canada in 2009, accepting a position at Mission Hill Family Estate. She made the move to Quails’ Gate in 2013, eager to be part of a small, family-owned winery producing premium BC wines. She says that BC has huge winemaking potential, and that it is raising the bar for food, wine, and culture. As the winemaker for Quails’ Gate, she wants to “work with every grape from start to finish”, crafting quality wines that embody the potential of the Okanagan.

In her spare time, Nikki loves to get out and enjoy the spectacular BC countryside. She is an avid sailor, swimmer, hiker, and camper, and is often accompanied by her dog, Olli, who is a rescue dog from the Kelowna SPCA.

The wine that tipped me off to Nikki’s drier style was the 2013 Chasselas Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris, one of the largest brands at Quails’ Gate. I thought it tasted drier than I remembered the previous vintage tasting. And it is, with 3.9 grams of residual sugar per litre compared with 15 grams in the 2012. The acidity was close: 6 grams in 2013 and 7 grams in 2012.

What about the others?

The 2013 Gewürztraminer has 11 grams of residual sweetness and 7 grams acidity. The 2012 had 15 grams of sweetness with six grams of acid. Nikki’s 2013 is balanced a touch drier, better suited with food than as an aperitif.

The 2013 Chenin Blanc has 2.6 grams of sugar and 7.2 grams of acidity while the 2012 had five grams of sugar and 7.6 grams of acidity - minor but interesting tweaks.

The rosé is a wine that Quails’ Gate (along with other wineries) has been drying out gradually over several vintages, adjusting to the evolving public palate for serious rosé wines. The 2013 has 4.6 grams of sugar with 6.2 grams of acid, compared with the 2012’s six grams of sweetness and 7.8 grams of acidity. However, the sugar/acid balance is such that both vintages would have tasted equally dry.

The Dry Riesling stands apart, with the 2013 having nine grams of sugar and nine grams of acidity compared with the 2012’s eight grams of sugar and 9.7 grams of acidity. The only notable difference is that the 2013 has 11.5% alcohol while the 2012 had 12%. Both wines have the classic structure of a Riesling that will benefit further aging in your cellar.

Here are notes on the wines.

Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2013 ($16.99 for 6,080 cases). The wine begins with lovely aromas of rose petals, spice and lychee, leading to flavours of lychee and white peach lifted by an early imperceptible sweetness. The texture is juicy and the finish is refreshing. 91.

Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling 2013 ($16.99 for 4,260 cases). Made with grapes from 29-year-old vines, this Riesling has a terrific future ahead of it. Currently, it is still youthfully tight and undeveloped, with citrus aromas and flavours of lemon and lime and green apple. The racy acidity is balanced with a dash of natural sweetness. You can’t afford not to buy it at this price; lay it away for at least two or three years, if not more. 90.

Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2013 ($18.99 for 3,500 cases). This wine includes nine percent of Sauvignon Blanc (the 2012 had eight percent). This wine begins with tropical fruit aromas of lemon, lime and papaya. The wine has flavours of citrus and green apple supported by a spine of minerals. Do not overchill this wine because that might diminish the rich texture. This also is a wine that could age gracefully for another five years. 91.

Quails’ Gate Chasselas Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris 2013 ($18.99 for 11,200 cases). This blend was born several vintages ago as a way to reduce the total number of wines in the portfolio. And wouldn’t you believe it? It has become one of the winery’s most popular whites. The appeal lies in the fruity aromas and the flavours of fresh pears, apples and lemon. The wine is balanced toward dryness, finishing crisply and even austerely. 88.

Quails’ Gate Rosé 2013 ($15.99 for 4,600 cases). This is a blend of 60% Gamay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris. The wine appeals with a lovely and delicate rose petal hue and with aromas of strawberry and cherry. On the palate, there are exuberant flavours of strawberry jam with a hint of red liquorice. The texture fills the mouth while the finish is crisp and refreshing. This is a bottle looking for a picnic. 90.

Fort Berens recruits new vineyard and winemaking team

 Photo: Megan de Villiers and Danny Hattingh, with their dog Kimbra

Fort Berens Estate Winery, which pioneered grape growing in Lillooet, announced two major steps with the release of its newest wines this spring.

First, it is well along on the construction of a 9,500-square foot winery. The tasting room is expected to open in July. The winery will be ready to process the 2014 vintage, when about three-quarters of the grapes are expected to come from the winery’s Lillooet vineyard, now reaching full production.

Secondly, the winery has now recruited a resident winemaker and vineyard manager team, Danny Hattingh and his partner, Megan de Villiers, a pair of 30-year-old South Africans previously working in the Okanagan.

Since its initial 2009 vintage, Fort Berens has had its wines made primarily by consultants in various Okanagan wineries. The 2013 vintage was made at Okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland by Matt Dumayne. The 2012 vintage was made at the Township 7 winery near Penticton by James Cambridge (now the winemaker at Backyard Vineyards in the Fraser Valley). These and the other consultants all have done excellent work for Fort Berens. But given the location of the vineyard, Fort Berens is better off with a resident team now that a full harvest is expected.

“We are very excited now to finally be able to make our wines on site in our own facility,” Fort Berens co-proprietor Rolf de Bruin says. “With Megan and Danny’s input, we have high expectations for the next vintages.”

Danny received his enology degree at the renowned Elsenburg Institute in Capetown. He met Megan at university where she was studying law. She began helping him on his practicums and that triggered her to switch to viticulture and pomology.

They first came to Canada in 2006 as vacationing students to visit Danny’s stepfather, a doctor in Dawson Creek. As soon as they arrived in Vancouver, they were drawn to Canada. When they returned in late 2007, they made a point of travelling across the country. Nova Scotia might have held them but they decided that the wine industry there was too small and rustic.

They send résumés to numerous wineries, especially in British Columbia, and were snapped up by Saturna Island Vineyards in the summer of 2008.

Due to illness and inexperience of previous staff, Saturna was desperate for help. The vineyard was so neglected that the 40 acres produced a mere 19 tons of grapes in 2008. By the time the couple left after the 2010 vintage (to travel for a year), they had almost tripled the yield and Danny had raised the quality of the wines significantly.

Returned in 2012 from their travels, the couple headed for the Okanagan. Megan found a variety of viticultural assignments while Danny became a well-regarded winemaker for two Summerland wineries, Saxon Winery and Sage Hills Winery.  

“We are all friends in this industry,” Saxon owner Paul Graydon says. “Danny is leaving on good terms.”

For a young winemaker, Danny has packed in a fair amount of experience.  “I worked at three wineries in South Africa  - Siyabonga, Boschendal and Asara Wine Estate,” he told me in an interview several years ago. “I also worked in Oregon at Domaine Drouhin two and a half months before finishing my studies. I was part of the 2005 vintage.”

As the couple showed by taking on the jobs at Saturna Island, Danny and Megan like being challenged. Megan offers a telling comment in the Fort Berens press release: “We are both ready for this next adventure and to begin exploring Lillooet. Geologically, this area is very different from other areas where we have worked, yet the climate is very similar. We are excited to work in this new area and to see what we can create in this unique geographical pocket. We are both very passionate and motivated as we take on these new challenges in our careers.”

It is worth noting that the newly-released whites from Fort Berens all are made with estate-grown grapes. The quality speaks well for the terroir.

Here are notes on the wines.

Fort Berens 23 Camels White 2013 ($16.99 for 204 cases). Made from Lillooet grapes, this is a blend of 46% Riesling, 42% Chardonnay and 12% Pinot Gris. The wine begins with aromas of apples, pears, bananas and even oranges. On the palate, the wine is simply a delicious bowl of fresh fruit dominated by citrus and apples. 90.

Fort Berens Pinot Gris 2013 ($17.99 for 520 cases). This wine is remarkably refreshing and generous, beginning with aromas of pear and citrus and leading to flavours of peach, pear and citrus. 91.

Fort Berens Riesling 2013 ($17.99 for 610 cases). This is also made with estate-grown grapes. Because Riesling takes a little more time to express itself in the bottle, this is not as immediately seductive as the Pinot Gris. The lime, grapefruit and crisp green apple flavours are lifted by the touch of sweetness that balances the acidity. 88-90.

Fort Berens Late Harvest Riesling 2013 ($24.99 for 451 cases of 375 ml bottles). This is the first desert wine from Fort Berens, made with grapes from the winery’s five-acre Riesling block. But these grapes were picked at 25 Brix on November 26, a month after the harvest for the dry Riesling. The finished wine almost approaches Icewine with 55.7 grams of residual sugar. It begins with aromas and flavours of apples – fresh and baked – along with notes of pear and mango. The flavours linger on the persistent finish. One might like a hair more acidity, a minor quibble for a delightful aperitif. 90.

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Rosé 2013 ($17.99 for 204 cases). The grapes for this rosé are also from Lillooet. The wine’s dark rose-coloured hue creates immediate appeal in the glass. There are notes of strawberry and raspberry both in the aroma and on the palate. The finish is crisp and almost totally dry. This is a rosé designed for food: the winery recommends wild mushroom risotto. 89.

Fort Berens 23 Camels Red 2012 ($21.99 for 323 cases). The winery’s notes do not indicate the source of the grapes, which probably means most are from the Black Sage Road vineyard that been supplying Fort Berens for a while. The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Along with other Fort Berens wines, this is closed with a screw cap. It took a few minutes for the slight reductive aromas to dissipate, revealing aromas of raspberry and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of raspberry, blackberry, cherry and black pepper. 88-90. 

Stop the press: sparkling wine is best with oysters

Pearl in the oyster: Bench 1775's Val Tait

Only an oyster fanatic would enjoy spending six hours chewing oysters and tasting wine to come up with ideal pairings.

I came to oysters late, having grown up in Saskatchewan. No wisecracks about Prairie oysters!

Whether or not you are an oyster aficionado, the Osoyoos Oyster Festival confirmed once again that a good sparkling wine is the best pairing with oysters. The judges at the festival, after tasting 119 wines, came down solidly for Noble Ridge The One 2010 ($39.90) as the top choice. The runner up was Sperling Vineyards Brut 2009 ($40). Both are 90 point wines.

I can’t say that was a surprise for a sparkling wine to be the overall winner. There is a long history of Champagne and oysters supporting each other. We could have finished the judging in 10 minutes.

Still, we had a duty to assess pairings with other wines in case there was no sparkling wine on hand. This is by no means easy, given the subtle differences in flavours among oysters.

If you will overlook the limits of my Saskatchewan education in oysters, here are thoughts on other pairings.

Sauvignon Blanc, with its lime and lemon flavours and its racy acidity, is like the squeeze of lemon on a fresh oyster. La Frenz Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22) was the winner in this varietal category. It is a tangy, refreshing wine with lots of lime and herbs (91 points).  The runner-up was Bench 1775 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($17.90), a crisp wine also displaying lime and herbal aromas and flavours. (90).

Pinot Gris was the largest varietal category. The variety is versatile enough to pair with a lot of foods, including oysters. The flights were divided between the two judging panels, producing two winners and two runners-up initially. These were reduced to one each in the final round, but I will mention all four.

The winning Pinot Gris wines in the first round were Tightrope Pinot Gris 2013  ($19.90) and Bench 1775 Pinot Gris 2013 ($17.90).  The Tightrope wine is a refreshing and delicious white, with aromas and flavours of banana, apple and pear (90). The Bench 1775 wine has aromas and flavours of pineapple and peach, with a squeeze of grapefruit on the finish that made it the final round winner. 91.

The performance of Bench 1775 is noteworthy.  Bench 1775 Chardonnay 2013 ($18.90) was runner-up in the oaked Chardonnay class. I scored the wine 88. With its tangy grapefruit flavours and very subtle oak, it was a better oyster pairing than the winner in this class.

The veteran Okanagan viticultural consultant, Val Tait, became general manager last spring of Bench 1775, formerly the Soaring Eagle Winery. Under previous ownership, Soaring Eagle had been run into receivership. Clearly, the place is back on even keel, with a pearl of its own directing the production of quality wines.

The runners-up in the Pinot Gris category were Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2013 ($17.99), which just pipped Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Gris ($19.90) in the final round. The Gray Monk was not served to my panel but it has long been one of the most reliable of Okanagan Pinot Gris.

Unsworth is a winery in the Cowichan Valley. The vintage was not shown on the spread sheet of competition wines but the vintage currently listed on the Unsworth website is 2011. This is a very good wine, with citrus flavours, a crisp mineral backbone and the squeeze of grapefruit that the oyster appreciated.

Pinot Blanc is reasonably successful as an oyster wine. The variety often has flavours and aromas of green apples but without the showy personality of Sauvignon Blanc or the fruitiness of Pinot Gris. Think of it as the supporting actor.

Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2012 ($15.99), the winner, shows classic green apples and honeydew melon (90). Runner-up Wild Goose Vineyards Mystic River Pinot Blanc 2013 ($19) has the apple notes mingled with the minerality of that vineyard. I scored it only 87 but I suspect it has not settled down totally in the bottle.

The Riesling pairings seemed a little more challenging. The Old Vines style, with lots of petrol and minerality, did not always flatter the oysters, at least in my opinion. The winner was Konzelmann Riesling 2012 ($11.95), a great value from an Ontario winery. Its fruitiness and moderate minerality paired well with oysters (no score available).

Runner-up was Monster Vineyards Riesling 2012 ($20), a delicious wine with lemon on the nose and palate, along with a very moderate note of petrol and with soft acidity. (91).

There were two Chardonnay classes. Frankly, I would not pair Chardonnay with oysters, especially not oaked Chardonnay. You can come away with a mouthful of fishy flavours.

But if I had to, I would choose the purity of unoaked Chardonnay. The winner was Mt. Boucherie Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 ($15) and the runner-up was Gray Monk Unwooded Chardonnay 2012 ($16.99). I have no scores on either wine.

Poplar Grove Chardonnay 2012 ($21.90) was the winner in the oaked Chardonnay category. I think it won more because it is just such a good wine (91) than because it pairs well with oysters. Keep this wine, as well the Bench 1775 Chardonnay, for the fresh halibut now in the market.

Other varietals and blends were clustered in the wild card category. The winner was Cellar Hand Free Run White 2012 ($16) from Black Hills. This is a complex blend of 59% Pinot Blanc and 27% Chardonnay, completed with Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Muscat and Pinot Gris. It is crisp and refreshing, with notes of pear and citrus. (88). It is very good value.

Runners up were Moon Curser Viognier 2012 ($28) and Poplar Grove Viognier 2012 ($24.90). These are both 90 point wines that, in my view, also cry out for fresh halibut, not oysters.++

Black Hills changes the Nota Bene recipe

Photo: Black Hills winemaker Graham Pierce

In blending the 2012 Nota Bene, Black Hills winemaker Graham Pierce decided to break with the tradition of anchoring that wine around Cabernet Sauvignon.

For the first time since 1999, Merlot anchors the 2012 Nota Bene. “It’s a better wine,” Graham says. “Let’s just not do something because we always did it.”

The 2012 vintage, the 14^th vintage of Nota Bene, has just been released and Graham has been doing some trade tastings.

The blend for 2012 is 57% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc. In every previous vintage but the first, the blend contained around 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, creating a familial consistency in the wine.

The first vintage in 1999, some 1,600 cases, was made by a Washington State winemaker, Rusty Figgins, with substantial input from Senka Tennant. One of the former owners of Black Hills, she was the winemaker through the 2008 vintage, when Graham took over.

I have no notes on why that first vintage was heavy on Merlot. My informed guess, however, is that the decision was made for the winery by the weather that season. 1999 was a cool growing season during which Cabernet Sauvignon would have struggled to ripen more than Merlot.

That was not the situation facing Graham in 2012. That was “one of the best years we have seen for flavour profiles, balanced ripeness and quality,” the winery says of that year. The Merlot-dominant blend was, as Graham says, judged to be the better wine.

Many Okanagan Meritage reds are anchored by Merlot, and not just because so much of that varietal is in the vineyards. When it is well grown, Merlot in the Okanagan is not the soft, jammy varietal that was panned in the movie, Sideways. The variety has good structure, vibrant fruit flavour and bright acidity; it does not need to be propped up by a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon.

In his trade tastings, Graham has been showing the 2012 as part of a vertical tasting that includes the previous five vintages. It is as if he is putting down a marker, showing that he need not apologize for changing the recipe.

In one recent trade tasting, the overwhelming favourite was the 2009 Nota Bene. That wine is a big, rich and concentrated red from one of the Okanagan’s greatest vintages so far. The blend is 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc. If you want to taste this delicious wine, you either need to find a Nota Bene collector or sign up for a vertical tasting at the winery.

If the 2009 outscored the other vintages, none of the other wines disappointed. Even with vintage variations, the quality consistently is high. And Nota Bene always tastes like Nota Bene, with flavours of blackberry, plum, black currant, chocolate, liquorice and sage nestled in a plump texture.

The Nota Bene 2012 ($53 to 3,200 cases) stacks up very well. The familiar sage and herbal notes are on the aroma and the finish. The fruit flavours include black cherry, plum, coffee and chocolate. The texture is rich and ripe, with long tannins. The winery says this was “more masculine” than previous vintages – even after dialling back the Cabernet, which speaks well of the quality of the Merlot. This will age as well as any Nota Bene, which is seven to 10 years. 92-94.

Pinot Noir from Quails' Gate and friends

 Photo: winemaker Grant Stanley

Recent releases that have crossed my desk make it obvious that Pinot Noir is succeeding very well in British Columbia.

That is hardly a new insight, either for me or for others who following the British Columbia wine scene. But I don’t mind repeating it, since the Pinot Noir offerings are getting better all the time.

That is not to take anything away from the other reds we do so well: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and occasionally Cabernet Sauvignon. The best of those come from sun-bathed terroirs around Oliver, Osoyoos and the Similkameen Valley.

Satisfying Pinot Noirs come from almost anywhere else that grapes grow in British Columbia, with the best coming from Okanagan Falls, Naramata Bench, Kelowna and Lake Country. Recently, producers have been releasing wines from 2011 and 2012, vintages that yielded elegant Pinot Noirs in the former case and bold Pinot Noirs in the latter.

There are also some exceptional white wines being released. I am adding notes on those as well as for the fine Pinot Noirs.

The two Quails' Gate wines are from winemaker Grant Stanley's last vintage at that winery before moving on to become a partner at 50th Parallel Winery at Carr's Landing. What a magnificent exit interview! 

Black Cloud Winery Altostratus Pinot Noir 2011 ($35 for 1,208 bottles). The wine is made with fruit from the Remuda Vineyard at Okanagan Falls. Bradley Cooper, the co-owner and winemaker for Black Cloud, now has made four vintages of Altostratus. Those who had the wit to collect it are lucky indeed. Dark in hue, this is a full-bodied Pinot Noir with the depth and structure for aging; it is premature to open this wine for at least two years unless for a review. It shows deep spicy cherry aromas and flavours framed by toasty oak. 90.

Black Cloud Winery Fleuvage Pinot Noir 2012 ($25 for 1,176 bottles). The fruit for this is from Loveridge Ranch on the Naramata Bench. Light and delicate, this is a charmer made in a style often called feminine. It has notes of cherry and raspberry with a lingering fruity finish and a silken texture. 88.

Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2012 ($25). The winery’s “regular” Pinot Noir has always been good value. This wine reflects the vintage with depth of texture. It has aromas and flavours of spicy cherry and raspberry with enough polished tannins to give this five to seven years in the cellar. 90.

Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Reserve 2011 ($35.90). This was the first vintage of the reserve Pinot Noir that was fermented entirely with wild yeast “in order to better express the terroir of our estate,” according to the winery’s notes. Medium-bodied, the wine is elegant, with aromas of spicy fruit and flavours of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. The texture is silky. 92.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris Reserve 2011 ($25.90). Thirty percent of this wine was fermented and aged in French oak. That accounts for light golden hue and the subtle touch of oak supporting honeyed citrus aromas and rich flavours of orange and orange peel. There is an alluring hint of anise on the finish of this complex and satisfying wine. 91.

Blue Mountain Chardonnay Reserve 2011 ($25.90).This wine begins with an ethereal aroma of toasty lees mingled with citrus. Half of this wine was barrel-fermented. The result is very subtle oak delivering sweet fruit flavours to the palate. The creamy texture accentuates the elegance of understated Chardonnay. 91.

Kettle Valley Winery Gewürztraminer 2012 ($22 for 605 cases). By drawing fruit for four vineyards, including one in Summerland, Kettle Valley has crafted a complex Alsace style wine. It begins with aromas of spice, grapefruit and lychee. It delivers a bowl of tropical fruit including lychee, mango and peach. The finish is delightfully persistent. 90.

Kettle Valley Winery Viognier 2012 ($26 for 205 cases). A portion of this was barrel fermented and allowed to go through malolactic fermentation, giving the wine a lovely golden hue and a creamy texture. The remaining wine was fermented in tank to deliver apricot aromas and fresh fruit flavours of orange, peach and apricot. This mouth-filling wine has a long, lingering finish, with a moderate alcohol of 12.9%. The wine is thoroughly delicious. 91.

Kettle Valley Winery Pinot Noir Reserve 2011 ($38 for 191 cases). This comment is not intentionally rude but this wine reminded me of the story of the ugly duckling that turned into a beautiful swan. This is an earthy and muscular wine with a porty concentration of black cherry, liquorice and spice flavours. Just lay it down for five to ten years and it will blow you away. 91.

Kettle Valley Winery Hayman “John’s Block” Pinot Noir 2011 ($38 for 45 cases).  This is a single vineyard winery dedicated to the late John Levine, a great wine lover who was Kettle Valley’s first customer. The wine is simply spectacular, with spice and fruit aromas exploding from the glass, followed by rich and generous flavours. At 14.4% alcohol, it is even riper than the reserve (13.8%), but already has the perfect balance of a beautiful swan. 92.

Kettle Valley Winery McGraw Estate Merlot 2009 ($38). The winery intended to send the 2011 vintage, the current release, but sent the 2009 in error. Less than two cases remain at the winery. But what a happy mistake for the reviewer! This muscular and concentrated wine begins with aromas of blueberry, black currant and vanilla, leading to flavours of plum, prune, black currant and liquorice. 91. A warning: there are only 45 cases of the 2011. I would recommend it on the strength of the 2009.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 ($45 for 1,775 six-bottle cases). The 14% alcohol and the dark colour signal that this is a bold ripe wine. Black cherry aromas are lightly framed by well integrated oak. The flavours are intense, showing black cherry and raspberry with spice and nuts on the finish. The finish is exceptionally long. The texture shows firm, polished tannins well on the way to silkiness, but with the power to give this wine eight to 10 years cellar aging. 94.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2012 ($35 for 1,130 six-bottle cases). This barrel-fermented wine begins with aromas of pear, tropical fruit and butterscotch. On the palate, there are flavours of peaches, nectarines, and mangoes with cloves and butterscotch on the finish. The wine has a generous texture. Just a hint of its alcohol, which is 14%, peaks through the ripe flavours. 90.

Tightrope Pinot Noir 2012 ($32 for 150 cases). This is the first Pinot Noir from a Naramata Bench winery that expects to open a tasting room this fall. Tightrope released impressive whites ands a rosé last summer and this wine rises to similar standards The texture is silky. It begins with exuberant cherry aromas mingled with toasty oak. This vibrant wine delivers a bowl of cherry and raspberry flavours, leading to a spicy finish. The fruit is so intense that it fools the palate into thinking this is a slightly sweet wine. 90.