Photo: Director of winemaking Jeff Hundertmark
The current releases from Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery often are made with fruit from vineyards in the Okanagan and the Similkameen Valley that often were planted 20 or more years ago.
The richness and complexity of the wines has always reflected the fact that the grapes were being sourced from mature vineyards. I would advise picking up these wines as they become available. The admirable style of Mt. Boucherie wines has been interrupted by the devastation the January freeze delivered to the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys.
“Yes, it is sure is an abysmal year,” Jeff Hundertmark, the director of winemaking, told me in mid-September. “We had very spotty fruit in the vineyards, so we decided the best thing for the health of the vines was to drop it early and let the vines heal. It seems to have worked as the late season heat really pushed and saved vines we thought were going to be lost.” That is very good news, considering the importance of mature vines.
With no fruit this year from its traditional vineyards, Mt. Boucherie sourced its red varietals from vineyards in Washington and Oregon. Mt. Boucherie’s cellar team supervised the picking. The grapes were fermented in the winery’s modern cellar in West Kelowna.
“I am heading to Niagara to work with some of my favourite growers from when I was there and crushing the grapes to juice for Riesling, Gamay (for rosé) and some assorted whites for a house blend,” Jeff told me. “I will be working with the winemaker of Niagara College Teaching Winery and some students.”
That is one of many anecdotes that illustrate how creative British Columbia wineries have had to be to make the 2024 vintage.
Here are notes on some current releases from Mt. Boucherie.
Mt. Boucherie Original Vines Sémillon 2022 ($34.99). The fruit is from the winery’s Lost Horn Vineyard at Okanagan Falls. A portion of the juice was fermented in stainless steel and a portion was fermented in French barriques. The lots were blended and spent a further two months in stainless steel. The result was a rich and complex wine, beginning with aromas of quince and citrus and leading to flavours of quince and stone fruits. 92.
Mt. Boucherie Reserve Chardonnay 2022 ($29.99). There is fruit here from vineyards in the Similkameen and Okanagan Falls. The wine was aged 13 months in French oak (50% new). The result is a full-bodied, creamy textured wine. It has aromas of orchard fruits with flavours of apple and nectarine. The oak manifests as spice on the finish. 90.
Mt. Boucherie Original Vines PTG 2022 ($34.99). The blend is 45% Gamay Noir, 35% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Gris. All the fruit is from the Similkameen Valley. The wine has aromas of cherry and cranberry which is echoed on the palate. PTG is inspired by a traditional Burgundy blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Gris is here presumably to perk the acidity and the fruity flavours. 89.
Mt. Boucherie Merlot 2022 ($24.99). The fruit is from vineyards in the Okanagan and in the Similkameen Valleys. The richly-textured wine begins with aromas of cherry, raspberry and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant and blueberry. 90.
Mt. Boucherie Reserve Syrah 2022 ($44.99). The fruit for this delicious wine is from a vineyard in the Similkameen and two in the south Okanagan. The wine was aged 15 months in French and Hungarian oak (20% new). As one expects from Syrah, this is a bold wine with aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and fig. The wine has a classic note of pepper in the flavour and the finish. 93.
Mt. Boucherie Reserve Meritage 2022 ($34.99). The fruit is from vineyards in both the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. The blend is 48% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged 14 months in American and European oak (15% new). The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits mingled with chocolate. On the palate, the flavours are luscious, with notes of black currant, blueberry, dark cherry and spice. The finish is persistent. 92.
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