Hillside is among Naramata Bench's climate survivors

Photo: Hillside winemaker Kathy Malone

The Naramata Bench’s vineyards survived the January freeze better that most Okanagan vineyards, due perhaps to the climate moderation from the vast and deep lake bordering the bench. There may not be much fruit on the vines this fall; but most of the vines are alive and should produce fruit next year. Here is a brief report from the front by Kathy Malone, the winemaker at Hillside Winery, one of the oldest producers on the bench and, since Kathy took the cellar in 2008, one of the best.

“All Naramata Bench vineyards have come through the freeze much better than the expectations in late January,” she told me in an email last month. “We had Markus Keller from University of Washington, Prosser, here early August as part of the Triggs lecture series. He visited our Hidden Valley Vineyard, which has Gewurztraminer with full recovery, and Merlot and Syrah that will be retrained from the roots (self-rooted, planted 2000/2001). He was shocked by the apparently health of the vineyard, considering the recorded temperatures, and expects good recovery (depending of course on this winter).”

She continued: “I have a grower to the north, Dickinson, whose Merlot has been featured frequently in our Single Vineyard Series. He has Pinot Gris fruit to pick (!). It was a lovely surprise to be able to taste almost-ripe fruit. It is a tiny block; we’ll be lucky to get a ton, but it will be the first white in the Single Vineyard series. I’m glad I have a good number of sound neutral white barrels.” Another remarkable survivor was the Cabernet Sauvignon in the winery’s Howe Vineyard, one of the most northerly blocks of this varietal in the Okanagan. “Even more astonishing is the fact that this block survived over 57 hours of -25 Celsius cold this January,” Kathy writes. “Yes, we still have a Howe Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon!”

At the time of her email, she was considering buying some Washington State Pinot Gris because some of Hillside’s accounts will need such a wine. But unlike some of her peers, she is by no means all in on making wine with imported fruit. “I am extremely concerned for the future of “Brand BC” especially as I read comments from winemakers importing fruit and juice,” she writes. It is clear from the winery’s current releases that Hillside is standing up magnificently for Brand BC. Here are notes.

Hillside Muscat Ottonel 2023 ($26). This varietal was planted initially in the Hillside vineyard in 1984 and has long been a favourite among the winery’s fans. The wine invariably is a delicate and floral white. That starts with overnight skin contact and a long, cool ferment in stainless steel. The wine is refreshing, with delicate spice in the aroma and flavour. 90.

Hillside Gewürztraminer 2023 ($22). This extraordinary wine is a reminder that Gewürztraminer, which has gradually become a boring wine in the Okanagan, can rise to heights of Alsace. Hillside’s wine is made with grapes from five Naramata vineyards. The wine begins with intense aromas of ginger and lychee, which are echoed on the palate, mingled with notes of stone fruit. The lingering finish is dry. Why are there not more serious Gewürztraminers from Okanagan producers? 93.

Hillside Heritage Pinot Gris 2023 ($35 for 150 cases). Grapes from three vineyards were barrel-fermented after just two hours of skin contact. The result is a wine of considerable complexity. Slightly pink in hue, the wine begins with stone fruit aromas. On the palate, there are flavours of nectarine mingled with grapefruit. The texture is rich and the finish lingers. 91.

Hillside Hidden Valley Vineyard Merlot 2019 ($50 for 180 cases). The winery turbocharged the aromas and flavours by an eight-day cold soak and then with extended maceration. The wine was then aged 12 months in French oak (28% new). This is an intense, concentrated wine, beginning with aromas of dark fruits and leading for flavours of dark cherry, black currant, chocolate and spice. 92.

Hillside Occhi Dolci Vineyard Merlot 2022 ($50 for 170 cases). This wine was aged 16 months in French oak (42% new). This is a pretty Merlot, with bright floral fruit aromas mingled with cassis and blueberry. The flavours are voluptuous – cherry, blueberry, black currant and plum – with a touch of spice on the lingering finish. 93.

Hillside Howe Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($N/A for 168 cases). Small tank fermentation with good temperature control allowed for an extended skin maceration of 27 days. The wine was drained and pressed directly to new (28%) and used French oak barrels where it was allowed to mature for 17 months before bottling. This is an elegant wine, beginning with aromas of cassis and dark cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of dark cherry and black currant mingled with chocolate and spice. The tannins are polished and the finish is persistent. 92.