Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Monday, September 2, 2024
Blue Mountain chooses not to import grapes this fall
Photo: Blue Mountain vineyard near Okanagan Falls
Followers of Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars hardly need a reminder to stock up on the current releases while they are available. Like other Okanagan producers, Blue Mountain suffered major vineyard damage during last January’s freeze.
“All of our vineyards were impacted, with some bud damage, but fortunately, they are thriving this season,” writes Christie Mavety, a member of the family that owns Blue Mountain. “We expect to harvest a very small crop and will produce less than 4,500 liters this vintage.”
Unlike many of its peers, Blue Mountain will not bring in grapes from Washington or Oregon. “We have no plans to bring in any additional fruit, so our supply [of wine] will be limited,” Christie adds. “Our focus will be on supporting our local BC market and extending our sales over the next few years to navigate this period. Our priority is to ensure that our loyal supporters are looked after first.”
I am not surprised that the Mavety family is not importing grapes. In the winery’s entire history, its wines have been made with grapes from the Okanagan Falls estate that they have managed since 1972. Blue Mountain has won a strong reputation for top quality wines with unimpeachable authenticity. It would have been unwise to tamper with that.
When Blue Mountain’s production returns to normal in a few years, its loyal customers will still be there – and appreciative of the winery’s uncompromising standards.
That is not to dump on the producers who have chosen to import grapes this vintage. They will also produce good wine. But importing fruit was never going to be an option for Blue Mountain.
The current releases – three 2023 whites and a 2022 Pinot Noir – are delicious wines and well worth stocking up on.
Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2023 ($25.90). This wine was made with fruit from 38-year-old vines. Some 34% was fermented and aged in stainless steel; the remainder was fermented in a variety of older oak foudres and barrels. The oak contributed to texture but was not allowed to suppress the fruit. The wine has aromas and flavours of apple, pear and apricot, with a generous mouthfeel and a clean finish. 91.
Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2023 ($25.90). The fruit for this wine came from 37-year-old vines. Fermentation with natural yeast was 75% in oak casks and 25% in stainless steel, with six months aging in that cooperage. This is a wine with citrus aromas, delivering flavours of peach and nectarine, once again with a generous mouthfeel and a long finish. 92.
Blue Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($25.90). The fruit for this wine is from 16 and 17-year-old vines. The wine was fermented with natural yeast in 40% stainless steel and 60% oak cooperage, with five months of aging in those vessels. The wine begins with aromas of lime, peach and herbs and delivers flavours of grapefruit and stone fruits, with a long finish. The style is Sancerre rather than New Zealand. 92.
Blue Mountain Estate CuvĂ©e Pinot Noir 2022 ($34.90). The fruit for this wine is four clones (114, 115, 667 and 777) from vines that were 15 and 16 years old. The wine was fermented with native yeast in open-top stainless steel and oak tanks, with 14 to 18 days macerating on the skins. The finished wine was aged in French oak barrels. The wine presents with lots of colour and with aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice. The finish has classic notes of forest floor. The texture is generous, supporting a long finish. This is one of the Okanagan’s best affordable Pinot Noirs. 93.
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