Wednesday, July 10, 2024

Mayhem produces more Anarchy

Photo: Mayhem winemaker Ajay Chavan (courtesy of the winery
Mayhem Wines portfolio of reserve wines, which are labelled Anarchy, has now expanded to four with the release of the inaugural Anarchy Pinot Gris from the 2023 vintage. The name, Anarchy, seems to have been inspired by the Anarchist Mountain Vineyard, the home of Terry Meyer Stone and Andrew Stone. They are co-proprietors of Mayhem with the owners of Meyer Vineyards, JAK Meyer and Janice Stevens. This is a vineyard with a history, recounted on Mayhem’s website:
Location: Located on the east side of Okanagan Valley in Osoyoos, this site is 1,700 feet above the valley floor, experiencing cool mountain breezes in the evening after long hot days. This mountain grasslands area is home to Sage Brush, Antelope Brush and the Western Rattlesnake. Vines: In the 1980's, pioneer and miner by trade, Tony (Anton) Dekleva blasted a "mine-like" reservoir into the side of the mountain and witched three water wells to gain access to water. Born in Prem, Slovenia, Tony arrived in Canada in 1957, and settled in Osoyoos in 1968. He planted roughly 3.5 acres of grapes completed around 1985, of which included an unknown clone of Chardonnay, today known as Dekleva Clone. In 1993 Dekleva sold the vineyard to a German family called the Mauz's, and in 1994, the Mauz family planted an additional 1 acre of Merlot. In 2010, Terry and Andrew purchased the property and called it home for the next 12 years. In 2014 through 2015, together with some help from their neighbour Darryl, Andrew made the decision to pull out some of the Chardonnay and planted a half an acre of Cabernet Franc on the upper bench of the property. Today there are roughly 4 acres planted: 1 acre of Pinot Noir, 1.5 acres of Chardonnay, 1 acre of Merlot and 0.5 acres of Cabernet Franc. For a number of years Terry and Andrew crafted a small amount of wine under the label Anarchist Mountain Vineyards which was sold exclusively to select restaurants and wine stores. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are currently both used in production at Meyer Family Vineyards, Terry's brother's winery, and the Merlot and Cabernet Franc are destined for Mayhem's premium label.
Mayhem, which also gets fruit from two Kaleden vineyards and from elsewhere in the Okanagan, produces wines which, with the exception of rosé and Gewürztraminer, do not overlap with the Meyer portfolio. Winemaker Ajay Chavan, who grew up in New Zealand and has an enology degree from Lincoln University in Christchurch, makes the wines at the Meyer property near Okanagan Falls. Mayhem’s tasting room is also near the Meyer tasting room.
Here are current releases.
Mayhem Pinot Gris 2023 ($19.22 for 525 cases). The fruit for this wine is from 21-year-old vines in Kaleden. The wine was fermented in stainless steel, with 17% finishing ferment in seasoned oak puncheons. That likely accounts for the good texture and spice that surrounds the aromas and flavours of pear and apple. The finish is crisp and fresh. 90.
Mayhem Anarchy Pinot Gris 2023 ($26.18 for 190 cases). This exceptional Pinot Gris, the latest addition to the Anarchy designation, is the result of very complex winemaking. The fruit is from a Kaleden vineyard. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed and fermented cool in a combination of vessels: 41% in ceramic balls, 42% in stainless steel and 17% in a neutral puncheon. The wine was on the lees for seven months, and that shows in the satisfying texture. The wine begins with aromas of stone fruits that lead to flavours of guava, papaya, pear and peach. There is a lingering finish. 93.
Mayhem Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20.97 for 313 cases). This wine is made from Naramata Bench fruit. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed and the juice was fermented cool over seven weeks in stainless steel. The winery was aiming at the zesty New Zealand style but, in my judgment, did not quite get there. The wine is crisp and dry, with aromas and flavours of lime but with a short finish. 88.
Mayhem Rosé 2023 ($21.83 for 177 cases; also 72 magnums). The fruit in this wine is a blend of Zweigelt (the dominant grape), Merlot, Pinotage and Malbec. The wine was fermented for 11 weeks at temperatures never exceeding 10◦C. The wine, which presents with an appealing rose petal hue, has aromas of strawberry and apple and flavours of watermelon and cranberry. The finish is crisp. 90.
Meyer Rosé 2023 ($20.96 for 160 cases). This is made with Pinot Noir; half fermented in barrel and half in stainless steel. The wine presents with a darker hue than is currently fashionable – but I like it when a rosé appeals to the eye. The wine follows through on the palate and in the aroma with bold notes of strawberry and cherry. 90.
Mayhem Sparkling White 2023 ($88.32 for 12-can flats; 225 flats produced). This is a blend of 77% Pinot Gris, 21% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Riesling. The wine is crisp and refreshing, with aromas and flavours of citrus. With tiny bubbles, it is an uncomplicated, easy-drinking wine in a single-serving 250 ml can. 88.
Mayhem Sparkling Rosé 2023 ($88.32 for 12-can flats; 200 flats produced). The wine, which is Merlot dominant, presents with a lovely rose petal hue. There is not a lot of aroma but there is a mouthful of cherry and strawberry flavours. The bubbles give it a crisp finish. 87.
Mayhem Cabernet Merlot 2022 ($24.44 for 691 cases). In spite of what the label suggests, the blend here is 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged 11 months in French oak. It is a dark and full-bodied red, with aromas and flavours of cherry and blueberry. There is a touch of chocolate and black olive on the finish. 90.
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