Lakeboat is a star of Kaleden wine country

Photo: Kaleden Hotel Recently, I heard a rumour that Kaleden’s iconic landmark, the skeleton of the old Kaleden Hotel, might need to be demolished in the interest of public safety. I hope that is not so. Just last year, the Regional District of Okanagan-Similkameen was reported to have engaged engineers to prepare plans for structural upgrades.

The old building, along with Linden Gardens, long have attracted visitors to this sleepy village just 15 minutes south of Penticton. The village has come to life in recent years with five wineries now operating amid the vineyards. When I went to search the history of the hotel, Copilot, the artificial intelligence tool now added to Microsoft, churned out a brief history:

“In 1911, the Kaleden Hotel was constructed with four stories of hand-mixed concrete. The visionary behind this endeavor was Jim Ritchie, an enthusiastic entrepreneur. He saw Kaleden as a potential service center for the mines along the forty-ninth parallel. Both the hotel and the store across the street reflected this concept.

“The hotel boasted modern amenities for its time, including electric light, running water, private sleeping porches, and exclusive dining rooms. It even had its own power plant, powered by a water-driven generator. Despite its impressive features, the Kaleden Hotel faced financial challenges. It failed to become financially profitable, although its service quality compared favorably with other valley buildings.

“The outbreak of World War I (1914–1918) may have contributed to the hotel’s closure. Additionally, improved roads and faster transportation diminished the need for a stopover point in the small community. Over the years, the hotel served various purposes, including housing the Kaleden Irrigation District office and providing change rooms for young swimmers during summers.

“The hotel’s shell endured, a testament to its once-grand presence. However, it remained closed for an extended period. In the late 1930s, the hotel was sold and stripped of a significant portion of its construction materials and furnishings. While the hotel’s physical structure has changed over time, its legacy lives on, echoing the stories of travelers, residents, and the vibrant community that once thrived within its walls.”

One of those five wineries is Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery, which opened in 2022. It is owned by Tara Mathison (above), a former Calgary lawyer who got involved in Kaleden when she decided in 2016 to buy and restore a heritage house. It happened that the house was beside the failing Topshelf Winery. Tara bought it in 2017 and has since restored both the winery and neglected vineyard.

As her winemaker, she engaged Mireille Sauvé (above), a former sommelier who also makes wines under her own label, The Wine Umbrella. Small batch wines, they generate funds to help an organization called Les Dames d’Escoffier which supports and educates women in the wine business. Both wine labels are sold at Lakeboat’s elegant tasting room in Kaleden.

Perhaps the village of Kaleden might ask Tara if she has any ideas for renovating the old hotel. Here are notes on current wines;

Lakeboat Pinot Gris 2022 ($21.95). This is a bright, refreshing take on the Okanagan’s most widely planted varietal. It begins with aromas of citrus and peach, leading to flavours of peach and apple. Good acidity gives the wine a crisp and vibrant finish. 91.

Lakeboat Chardonnay 2021 ($26.95). The wine is lightly oaked, giving the wine a creamy texture with a note of vanilla in the aroma. On the palate, it delivers flavours of apple, pineapple and apricot. The finish lingers. 91.

Lakeboat Rosé 2022 ($18.95). Slightly off-dry, this Pinot Noir rosé presents with an appealing hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry. 88.

Lakeboat Pinot Noir 2021 ($29.95). This wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry and raspberry. Light-bodied on first pouring, it develops with breathing to display notes of dark cherry with a hint of forest floor on the finish. 90.

The Wine Umbrella Chardonnay 2022 ($33.45). This wine was fermented in American oak barrels. The wine has aromas and flavours of pineapple mingled with apple and citrus. The oak adds a subtle spice supporting the fruit-driven flavours. The finish persists. 92.

The Wine Umbrella Co-Syrah 2020 ($39.95). This Syrah wine is so named because the fruit was co-fermented with Viognier. The wine was aged a year in French oak barrels. It is a delicious wine, beginning with aromas of dark fruits that lead to flavours of plum and fig. A touch of black pepper wraps up the wine, whose flavours linger on the palate. 92.