Rara Avis: Port-style wine from Haskap berries

Photo: Winemaker Tibor Erdélyi

Rara Avis means rare bird. It is a fitting name for a fortified wine from Haskap berries that was released in November by Echo Haskap Farm in Lumby, BC. It is the only fortified wine in BC from a “super berry” seldom used in wine. Echo Haskap Farm, operated by Margarita and Igor Valou, calls itself BC’s largest organic haskap farm, with 40 acres of that berry under cultivation. Most of the fruit goes into other products. However, they arranged to have Kalala Estate Organic Winery’s Serbian-born winemaker Tibor Erdélyi make 250 cases of a Port-style wine which, for licensing reasons, is sold through Kalala.

The Haskap berry is native to northern Japan, northern Asia and Siberia, where its healthful properties have been recognized for a long time. The berries are packed with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. In the late 1990s, scientists at both Oregon State University and the University of Saskatchewan took an interest in bringing Haskap and its super-food properties to this continent. In 2002, the University of Saskatchewan, with plant material from Oregon, began the plant breeding program which has since produced the commercial varieties now grown in British Columbia and the Yukon by more than 50 growers.

Haskap.Ca, an industry association, says this about the berry: “Haskap is the Japanese name for Lonicera caerulea, also known as Edible Blue Honeysuckle and Honeyberry. Haskap is an ancient Japanese name of the Ainu people of Northern Japan for the fruit meaning “berry of long life and good vision”. The first introduction of the cultivated plant to Canada was at Beaver Lodge, AB in the 1950s. The fruit was bitter and not palatable. It has been found in the wild in every province in Canada except for British Columbia. The name “Haskap” was chosen as the brand name that has been applied to new varieties bred by the fruit program at the University of Saskatchewan.”

Haskap products typically include jams, chutneys and berry syrup. So far, only a few producers make wine from the berry. Monte Creek Winery near Kamloops planted Haskap a decade ago and has since released both a dessert wine and jam from the berry. Northern Lights Winery in Prince George also has a supply of Haskap berries and has made both a table wine and a compote from the berries. Echo Haskap Farm’s Rara Avis seems to be the only fortified wine from the berry. It has 18.5% alcohol, similar to Port, and was aged two years in American oak. Here is a note on the wine:

Rara Avis NV ($45 for 375 ml). The wine begins with aromas of blackberry and black currant mingle with caramel and toasted oak. Medium-bodied, the flavours mirror the aromas. There is a hint of spice on the finish. 90.