Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Wednesday, November 8, 2023
The View Winery: A glimpse of the portfolio
Photo: Jennifer Molgat
Since opening in 2008 on a historic family property in northeast Kelowna, The View Winery & Vineyard has made its reputation with wines that are well-made and original, including memorable labels.
The current portfolio includes at least four wines in the winery’s Elements Collection, featuring minimal intervention winemaking which shows the terroir well. The labels are also created with microscopy photography that certainly sets the wines apart on the shelf. These labels reflect the creativity of Jennifer Molgat, the winery’s president and a descendant of George Ward, a pioneer orchardist.
Today, the winery is located in the building erected by Ward in 1922 as his packing house. While the building has been updated, it still exudes a heritage atmosphere.
Jennifer, who was born in Kelowna, was on maternity leave from teaching in 2006 when she became involved in developing the winery. Chris Turton, her father, was already selling grapes from the 20 hectares (50 acres) of vineyard on the slope behind the packing house. He was also producing apple cider at another winery. When he had to move cider production into the packing house in 2006, Jennifer helped secure the cider and winery licences. Cash flow from Wards Cider has helped power The View’s growth.
The flagship varietal at The View is Pinotage, a grape developed in South Africa. Chris, who had a special interest in the variety, sourced cuttings in California. Eventually, the Pinotage block at The View has grown to 3.2 hectares (8 acres), the largest of the three or four plantings in the Okanagan. While it is a classic red wine grape, The View also uses it for rosé (likely the only Pinotage rosé in North America), for a fruity white Pinotage blend, and for a component in a sparkling wine.
The Pinotage Reserve is released under the label Black Rhino; the companion white, a blend of Pinotage, Pinot Noir and Riesling, is labeled White Rhino. On the back labels, the winery explains: “Pinotage and rhinos are both iconically South African. Sadly, due to habitat loss and poaching, the survival of the rhinoceros is now threatened.” Proceeds from the sale of these wines helps the World Wildlife Federation’s conservation work.
The vineyard is primarily planted to cool-climate aromatic white varieties (Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Ehrenfelser). Formerly, there was a block of Optima. It was replaced in 2014 with three clones of Pinot Noir (667, 777 and 115).
Here are notes on three wines in The View’s current portfolio.
The View Elements Collection Riesling 2022 ($27.95). The fruit was fermented in barrel and aged on the lees in French oak, presumably neutral oak to add structure to the wine rather that flavours of wood. The wine begins with aromas of lemon mingled with petrol. There is more lemon and rind of lemon on the rich palate. The wine is dry, with a long finish. 91.
The View Pinot Noir 2021 ($25.95 for 45 cases). Each clone was harvested by hand, destemmed and crushed into stainless steel tanks for fermentation. After a total of 14 to 16 days on the skins, the must was pressed into barrels to finish fermentation. The wine spent about nine months in French oak (11.5% new). The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry and blackberry mingled with spice and forest floor notes. 91.
The View Black Rhino Pinotage Reserve 2020 ($34.95 for 176 cases). This wine was aged about nine months in barrel, predominantly French and 62% new. This is a robust and somewhat exotic wine, with flavours and aromas of dark cherry, sage and chocolate. The finish is persistent. 92.
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