Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Thursday, September 28, 2023
Township 7's Goddess of Dawn
Photo: Winemaker Mary McDermott behind a riddling rack for sparkling wine
Mary McDermott, the winemaker at Township 7 Vineyards & Winery, is one of the Okanagan’s leading makers of traditional method sparkling wine, with awards to prove it.
The winery’s recently-released seven stars Aurora 2019 won a gold medal at the 2023 National Wine Awards of Canada.
The wine, she writes, “is named for the Goddess of Dawn. Ancient Romans believed that Aurora brought light to the heaven and earth, and her tears created the sparkling morning dew.” It is a charming allegory for this excellent wine.
Mary makes a number of other wines in the Township 7 portfolio. To me, it seems that a bit of a house style is emerging. The wines have a fingerprint of complexity and a spine of minerality.
Here are notes.
Township 7 Provenance Series 7 Blanc 2022 ($24.97 for 500 cases). This blend is anchored around Riesling and fleshed out with Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay. The varietals were fermented separately and cool (at 13◦C). The wine has aromas and flavours of quince, apple, pear and citrus. A hint of residual sugar adds flesh to the texture. 91.
Township 7 Provenance Series Pinot Gris 2022 ($24.97 for 198 cases). The fruit was fermented cool in stainless steel, except for one barrel fermented in oak to add texture and complexity. There are aromas and flavours of pear and stone fruit, with a spine of minerality. 91.
Township 7 Provenance Series Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($24.97 for 258 cases). This wine was fermented in both stainless steel and neutral oak barrels. The object was to retain the fresh fruity flavours of the varietal while adding texture. There are aromas and flavours of lime, lemon and pineapple. 88.
Township 7 Provenance Series Rosé 2022 ($27.97 for 601 cases). This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Gris. The pale hue is a nod to the Provençal rosé style. The aromas and flavours, however, are intense: a medley of strawberry, watermelon and rhubarb with stone fruits on the finish. 90.
Township 7 seven stars Aurora 2019 ($57.97 for 250 six-bottle cases). The wine is made entirely with Pinot Noir (clone 115). The wine was en tirage for 30 months. The wine begins with a note of brioche in the aroma. The active bubbles lead to a creamy texture. There are flavours of citrus and apple. The bright acidity gives the wine a crisp finish. 92.
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