Tinhorn Creek is refreshing its vineyards

Photo: Winemaker Leandro Nosal

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards has begun replanting its vineyards in a massive multi-year project aimed both at adjusting to climate change and at producing even better wines. “In five to 10 years, we will be making much better wines because of the new material we are planting,” says winemaker Leandro Nosal. “Farming is adapting to the new weather conditions we are all facing.”

“We are a young valley,” Leandro continues, referring to the Okanagan. “We have only been making serious wine for the last 40 years. We now know better how the vines and the rootstocks respond, mostly to extremes. We need to bullet-proof our production against those extremes that are more frequent. We cannot lose the vines every five years. We need to be better prepared.” Tinhorn Creek, which was established in 1993, is one of the South Okanagan’s most established wineries. It has its 50-acre estate vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench and the 100-acre Diamondback Vineyard on Black Sage Road. Since being acquired in 2017 by Andrew Peller Ltd., the winery also has access to fruit from other vineyards owned by the Peller group. “We are changing clones, working with different plant density and working on better row orientation,” Leandro says about the replanting. “We want to make better wines and we are aware that starts in the vineyards.”

The quality bar at Tinhorn Creek is high already. However, subtle changes to the portfolio are expected to flow from the vineyard redevelopment. There will be a stronger focus on top tier varietal wines, notably Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay. At the same time, the winery will continue to make its well-regarded Merlot, its top-selling red wine, along with such popular varietals as Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, some with fruit from other Peller vineyards.

Leandro, who was born in Mendoza in 1984, the wine capital of Argentina, and trained in Europe, joined Tinhorn Creek in 2021. He has extensive experience making wine in Argentina, Mexico, New Zealand, Europe and Ontario. He brings an impressive resumé of education and international experience to Tinhorn Creek. He has an Agricultural Engineering degree from Universidad Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza, as well as a Master of Science in Viticulture and Oenology, earned while studying abroad in Montpellier in France and Torino in Italy. He also has a business management certificate from the University of Toronto School 0f Continuing Studies. He came to the Okanagan in 2014, working first at LaStella Winery and then moving to the Mission Hill group of wineries. He was assistant winemaker at CedarCreek Estate Winery from February 2016 to May 2017; then assistant winemaker at Mission Hill Family Estate Winery for a year; and then assistant winemaker at Checkmate Artisanal Winery for three years until he was recruited by Tinhorn Creek.

“When I first came to Canada, the Okanagan reminded me of Mendoza,” Leandro told me last year. “We have those same hot, dry summers. If the vines have the right amount of water with irrigation, you can ripen fruit perfectly. You have the cool nights. That is fantastic because you keep that freshness.” “I am a winemaker in one of the most promising wine regions of North America,” Leandro writes at his LinkedIn page. “The Okanagan valley, in British Columbia, is coming of age, showing all its greatness and I am proud to be crafting wines here.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer 2022 ($22). The 2022 vintage suited this varietal. The cool spring and the long, moderate autumn developed flavour, preserved the acidity, and moderated the alcohol (13% in 2022 versus 14% in the hot 2021 vintage). This wine has lychee and ginger aromas and flavours; a generous texture and a long finish. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2022 ($24). This wine was fermented cool in stainless steel and oak barrels and was kept on the fine lees three months before being bottled. The wine has aromas and flavours of pear and quince, with bright acidity giving the wine a crisp, refreshing finish. 90.

Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay Estate 2021 ($25 for 2,210 cases). The grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed and fermented half in oak barrels and half in stainless steel barrels. The wine was aged six months in oak. This is an attractive, fruit-forward wine with aromas and flavours of citrus; and a slight hint of butter on the finish. 92.

Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay Reserve 2021 ($37). The grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed and fermented and aged 14 months in French oak. The wine begins with buttery aromas of tropical fruit, leading to a rich palate with flavours of apples, pears, and spice. The finish goes on and on. 93.

Tinhorn Creek Reserve Rosé 2022 ($25). “Rosé is one of my favourite wines to make,” says Leandro. The hallmark of his rosé style is blending: this wine is 67% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot. Each parcel of fruit was whole-bunch pressed, fermented cool in stainless steel, blended and aged three months on fine lees. It presents in the glass with a delicate (but not anaemic) hue. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon with a hint of pink grapefruit. Bright acidity gives the wine a crisp, refreshing finish. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2020 ($25). After a two-day cold soak, the crushed berries are fermented slowly with natural yeast, with a long period of maceration. The wine is aged 12 to 14 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and vanilla, leading to flavours of plum, dark cherry and blueberry. The firm texture assures that this wine will develop further complexity over the next five years. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2020 ($30). The fruit was fermented with natural yeast in stainless steel and aged 12 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The wine begins with aromas of spice and blackberry leading to flavours of red currant. 92.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2021 ($30). This wine also was aged in about 12 months in a selection of oak barrels. Despite 2021 being a very hot year, Leandro was able to make a bright, quaffable wine without too much alcohol and no hint of smoke. It has aromas and flavours of blackberry and black cherry. 91.

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc Reserve 2020 ($40). This wine was aged 18 months in French oak. The texture and the flavours are concentrated, with notes of spice, dark cherry, blackberry, chocolate and tobacco. The finish is very long. 94.

Tinhorn Creek Blanc de Blanc 2018 ($45). Tinhorn Creek’s first traditional method sparkling wine, this wine won gold in the 2022 National Wine Awards. It is 100% Chardonnay. It is an elegant and sophisticated wine with notes of brioche and apple in both the aroma and the palate. The fine bubbles give the wine an initial creamy texture; but the finish is crisp. 91.