Howling Bluff going off the grid, off fossil fuels

Winery owner and environmentalist Luke Smith

The profile of Howling Bluff Estate Winery in the 2020 Okanagan Wine Tour Guide began with this: “Others might rest on their oars after winning four Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence, which is what Howling Bluff did during its first decade. Not proprietor Luke Smith.” The reference was to Luke’s decision to employ consultant Pascal Madevon to improve Howling Bluff’s viticulture and winery practices. “He is going to make us better at what we do,” Luke told me. “In this industry, if you stand still, everybody is going to pass you.”

Clearly, Luke never stands still. He is well on the way to taking the winery off the grid after installing 51 solar panels and ordering more. The winery’s vehicles (and his personal vehicle) n0w are all electric. And Howling Bluff is believed to be the first of two Naramata Bench wineries awaiting delivery of electric tractors from Monarch Tractor Co. in Livermore, California. The other is Terravista Vineyards. The Monarch electric tractor has been creating a buzz in agriculture since it began rolling off the production line last year. On its website, the company says: “Monarch Tractor’s MK-V has transformed the agriculture industry with the next generation EV technology and unparalleled automation capabilities. … The fully electric, driver-optional, smart tractor combines electrification, automation, and data analysis to help farmers reduce their carbon footprint, improve field safety, streamline farming operations, and increase their bottom lines.” The driving motivation at Howling Bluff is environmental. “Within 900 days, we will be producing wine without electricity or carbon fuels,” Luke told me in an interview last month. “And if I don’t have to get into a diesel tractor for the rest of my life, I will not miss that noise.”

For further background on the winery, here is an excerpt from the Tour Guide”

Luke, whose mother, Lynda Smith, was secretary of the International Wine and Food Society’s Vancouver chapter, became a stockbroker after getting a degree in economics. His interest in wine took him to the Okanagan in 2003 to convert a Naramata Bench orchard to vineyard by planting 15,000 vines. “Every single post put into the vineyard I have touched three times,” he says. “I put the irrigation in. There is nothing here that I haven’t done.” He acquired winemaking knowledge by being mentored by consulting winemakers, notably Chris Carson, a Canadian trained in New Zealand, whose Pinot Noir passions soon rubbed off on Luke.

The initial plan was to make world-class wines with Bordeaux varieties. Luke did plant a small block of Pinot Noir just for the challenge of growing a variety reputed to be difficult. “There was never meant to be a Pinot here,” he says. To his surprise, Howling Bluff’s first major award was earned by his 2006 Pinot Noir. “Mother Nature was telling me that my vineyard makes a good Pinot Noir,” he admits. He replanted much of the 8-hectare (20-acre) vineyard. “Pinot Noir is one of the best wine [grapes] in the world,” he says with a convert’s conviction. “The most memorable wines I have ever had have been Pinot. What an incredible grape! You can make Champagne, table wine, and rosé. There is the magic and the versatility of the heartbreak grape.” With his remaining varieties, Luke makes a small-lot Bordeaux red blend called Sin Cera, as well as Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. In the 2018 vintage, he also added a Pinot Gris from a three-year-old planting in his vineyard.

Luke made his first vintage in 2006. However, with his increasing focus on viticulture, he hired winemaker Blair Gillingham last fall. “I don’t want to make wine any more,” Luke says. Blair, who grew up in Penticton, has acquired extensive wine industry experience since working the 2001 harvest at Sumac Ridge Estate Winery. That included two years in Austria, beginning in 2010, where he developed a passion for Grüner Veltliner, a variety he now uses for wine under his own label, Observatory Wines. Before joining Howling Bluff, he was the winemaker at Ruby Blues Winery. Howling Bluff, with an annual production of 3,000 to 3,500 cases, has become primarily a Pinot producer. Luke’s son, Daniel, also makes two fortified wines labelled Forbidden Fort because the term, Port, is reserved only for Portuguese producers. Here are notes on some current releases.

Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2022 ($21.74 for 633 cases). This is a tart, refreshing wine with aromas and flavours of lime and lemon. The blend is two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc, one-third Sémillon. 91.

Howling Bluff Rosé 2022 ($21.74 for 109 cases). Made with Pinot Noir grapes, this wine has a bright pink hue and aromas and flavours of raspberry and watermelon. The finish is crisp and fresh. 91.

Howling Bluff Cronie Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 ($N/A). A wine with a silky texture, it has spice and strawberry aromas and flavours. 91.

Howling Bluff Three Mile Creek Pinot Noir 2021 ($34.35 for 486 cases). This is a seductive wine with cherry and spice in both the aroma and on the palate. The silky texture and the core of sweet fruit is what makes it so appealing. 92.

Howling Bluff Century Block Pinot Noir 2021 ($34.35 for 110 cases). This is complex and full-bodied Pinot Noir. Sweet berry aromas draw the consumer in. On the palate, there are flavours of strawberry, cherry and spice. 94.

Howling Bluff Sin Cera 2020 ($30.43 for 210 cases). The blend is 85% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot. The wine begins with aromas of cassis. The rich palate is reminiscent of Black Forest Cake. There is enough grip on the palate to suggest this will age well. 92.

Howling Bluff Forbidden Fort Blanc 2018 ($N/A). This is a fortified white wine from Sauvignon Blanc. The flavours are more reminiscent of sherry than port; it is a delicious wine, packed with fruit. The finish is long. 92.

Howling Bluff Forbidden Fort 2015 ($N/A). This is a Merlot-based fortified wine with rich fruit aromas and flavours. 93.