Covert Farms releases 2022 whites

Photo: Winery owner Gene Covert (courtesy of Covert Farms)

Covert Farms Family Estate is one of the South Okanagan’s longest-established and most successful farming enterprises. It was established in 1959 by Californian-born George Covert. He had succeeded there as a wholesaler and shipper of fruits and vegetables until he chanced to hear about the Okanagan and its potential. The square mile of property he bought on promontory north of Oliver soon became a major producer of grapes, vegetables and tree fruits. His grandson, Gene, operates the farm today, having transformed it entirely to organic production, notable for biodynamic and regenerative agricultural practices.

In spite of the property’s long history, a winery was established here only in 2006. “Our wines are crafted using 100% estate-grown grapes with minimal intervention and natural fermentation where possible,” the winery explains in a note with the current releases. [The wines] “are certified salmon safe and vegan. White wines display a purity of fruit and crisp natural acidity coveted by growers, while our low-yielding farming results in terroir-focussed, artisan reds that are luscious and age-worthy.”

Here are notes on current releases.

Covert Farms Ancestral Sparkling Zinfandel 2021 ($32.80 for 308 cases). This wine began its fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then fed directly into bottles to complete fermentation. The wine has an appealing light copper hue. It begins with a froth of bubbles into the glass and with a fruity aroma. On the palate, there are flavours of pink grapefruit mingled with cantaloupe. 89.

Covert Farms Chardonnay 2022 ($27.90 for 167 cases). This wine was fermented in French oak barrels (75% neutral, 25% first fill). The wine has aromas and flavours of citrus and pear mingled with buttery notes. The texture is rich. There is a hint of spice on the finish. 90.

Covert Farms Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2022 ($25.80 for 556 cases). The blend is 69% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Sémillon and 8% Viognier. The wine was fermented in stainless steel. The wine is crisp and packed with tropical fruits (lime, guava) with herbal notes on the persistent finish. 92.

Covert Farms Pinot Blanc 2022 ($23.80 for 178 cases). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees. The wine begins with aromas of apple and stone fruit. It delivers flavours of pear and apple and displays a fleshy texture. 90.

Covert Farms Grand Reserve Roussanne 2018 ($35.80 for 50 cases). The sample I received was corked but I would recommend the wine on the strength of the previous vintage. The cork taint was not too severe, just enough to suppress the underlying rich fruit. Covert Farms Grand Reserve Roussanne 2017 ($43.90 for 44 cases). This wine fermented for 35 days and then was aged 10 months sur lies in neutral French oak barrels. The wine presents with a light golden hue. It begins with aromas of stone fruit and vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of apricot and peach. The flavours are remarkably bright for a six-year-old wine. The texture is rich and the finish lingers. 91.

Covert Farms Rosé 2022 ($25.90 for 300 cases). The blend is 59% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Pinot Noir. The winery bled off juice from tanks of those varietals and co-fermented the juice, aging the wine on the lees in stainless steel for four months. This is a bold rosé with a vibrant hue. It is packed with fruit: cherries and strawberries in the aroma and palate. A touch of residual sweetness gives it a juicy texture. 90.