Burrowing Owl releases wines under three labels

Photo: Winery owner Jim Wyse with a burrowing owl (courtesy of Burrowing Owl Winery)

The current releases from Burrowing Owl Estate Winery illustrate the growing portfolio controlled by a producer that has been a cornerstone of Black Sage Road since opening in 1998.

The wines include a white under the Calliope label. As ornithologists know, Calliope is a name for a small humming bird native to the South Okanagan. The name was first applied to wine in 1999 when winemakers Ross and Cherie Mirko launched that label. It was still a virtual winery a decade later when they decided to move to New Zealand, Cherie’s native land and shut down the business. Burrowing Owl founder Jim Wyse, who had already telegraphed his interest in birds by naming his winery for an owl, purchased the Calliope label. He resuscitated the label and the wines as an avenue for budget-friendly wines usually made with varietals not grown by Burrowing Owl.

The other label in the current releases from Burrowing Owl is Wild Goose Vineyards, an Okanagan Falls winery launched by the Kruger family and opened in 1990. After founder Adolf Kruger’s death in 2016, the family decided to sell the winery. Unfortunately, that sale went sour, leading to a court-ordered auction of Wild Goose in 2021. The winning bidder was Burrowing Owl.

The wineries are remarkably complementary. Wild Goose is best known for its white wines and its moderate price points. Burrowing Owl established itself from the start as a luxury brand winery with a well-deserved reputation for red wines. Of course, Burrowing Owl makes some white wines and Wild Goose has some reds in its line. But there is not much overlap between the portfolios – and there is a lot to like in all of them. Here are notes.

Burrowing Owl Viognier 2020 ($40). Some 75% of the juice was fermented in barrel; the rest was fermented in stainless steel and the blended wine with aged in French oak (15% new). The wine begins with aromas of vanilla, apricot and peach. The rich, expressive palate delivers flavours of guava and stone fruit with a very long finish. 93.

Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($43). The wine was fermented in stainless steel but aged 18 months in barrel (62% French, 27% Hungarian and 11% American). Thirty percent of the barrels were new, 50% one- and two-years old; and the remaining 20% were neutral barrels. This intense wine begins with aromas of cassis, dark cherry and spice. The palate is rich, with flavours of dark fruits. The texture and the ripe tannins display the classic balance of 2020, a superb Okanagan vintage. 93.

Burrowing Owl Meritage 2019 ($53). The blend is 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. The varietals were aged separately for 15 months in 97% French oak and 3% American oak; 75% of the barrels were new. The best barrels were selected, blended, and aged another three months before bottling. The aromas and flavours are intense: plum, black currant, dark cherry, cedar and spice. 94.

Wild Goose Pinot Gris 2022 ($19.99). Eighty-five percent of this wine was fermented and aged three months in stainless steel; the other 15% was fermented and aged in barrel before the final blend was made. The wine begins with aromas of pear and cantaloupe. On the palate, there are flavours of pear, nectarine and citrus. 91.

Wild Goose Gewürztraminer 2022 ($17.99). This full-flavoured wine begins with aromas of spice and orange zest. The palate is packed with flavours of lychee and peach mingled with ginger. The finish is slightly off-dry but a balancing acidity. The texture is rich and the finish is long. 90.

Wild Goose Riesling 2021 ($19.99). This wine was fermented and aged five months in stainless steel before bottling. It begins with a classic note of petrol mingled with lemon, leading to flavours of lemon and lime, peach and pear. A touch of residual sweetness balanced with bright acidity gives the wine a full texture. 90.

Wild Goose Autumn Gold 2022 ($19.99). This is a blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc, vinified separately and aged six months before blending and bottling. Aromas of pear mingle with cantaloupe. The palate is slightly off-dry with flavours of peach and pink grapefruit. The finish lingers. 91.

Wild Goose Merlot 2020 ($25.99). The wine was fermented and aged 16 months in oak barrels (58% French, 34% American and 8% Hungarian). The wine begins with aromas of cassis and cherry. Firm on the palate, the wine delivers flavours of dark cherry and black currant mingled with leather and dark chocolate. 91.

Wild Goose Cabernet Merlot 2020 ($23.99). This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Malbec, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The wine was aged 14 months in mostly neutral French oak barrels. Aromas of cassis, cherry and blueberry jump from the glass, leading to flavours of cherry and plum. Long ripe tannins give the wine a satisfying weight and length on the palate. 91.

Wild Goose Red Horizon 2020 ($31.99). The blend is 58% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Dunkelfelder, 5% Malbec and 3% Cabernet Franc. The varietals were vinified separately and aged 16 months in barrel (75% American, 25% French) before being blended and bottled. The Dunkelfelder is a German grape often used in blends for its deep colour; that would have been its role here. The wine begins with aromas of cassis and dark fruits. On the palate, the wine is fleshy with flavours of plum jam mingled with blueberry compote and a hint of sweet tobacco on the finish. 91.

Calliope Figure 8 White 2022 ($17.99). This is a blend of 57% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Gewürztraminer, 15% Riesling and 5% Viognier. Each varietal was vinified separately, aged two months in stainless steel and was then blended. The wine begins with aromas of herbs, spice and lime. The zesty flavours mingle lime, green apple and stone fruit. The finish is bright and refreshing, with a hint of mint. Very good value. 90.